Jump to content

Oil Pump Gasket


Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine from my 1989 Manche with the 4.0. I'm almost complete, all I have to do is reinstall the oil pump and throw the oil pan back on. But I've run into an issue. When I removed the oil pump there was a thin paper gasket where the pump mates to the block. It was torn so I threw it away. I can't find the new gasket for the life of me. Anybody know where I can purchase one, or if its even necessary? I went to all the auto parts store in my town and none have any, even in their computer database. Any help would be appreciated. :bowdown:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I grew up making needed gaskets out of card board. Now that I'm older and got more sense I use the knot hole in the fence,,,ah,,I mean i use RTV. Make sure both surfaces are clean. Apply a very narrow bead around the the outer edge.

I guess I didn't think about rtv. Thank you!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the two surfaces - oil pump and block - are flat (no bumps or nicks) and clean you may not need a gasket. If you think you need something, paint on a coat of high tack gasket shellac.

 

Sometimes gaskets weren't used from the factory. I've torn down several engines, mostly Fords that didn't have any.

 

Edit:

I just looked in my factory parts book for my TJ, and there is a part number listed for that gasket.

12 J3172332 1 ER0 GASKET, Oil Pump

Maybe it would be worth a call to the dealer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:agree: When I rebuilt my Austrian Rotax motorcycle 500cc engine last year, the cylinder head bolted to the jug with no gasket or sealant, according to the Rotax manual. I had never seen this before, so called a guy out in Cali who does nothing but built up Rotax thumpers for dirt track racing, and he confirmed it. The machined surfaces were so true they didn't need a gasket even with all that compression. These lightweight built engines go for upwards of $4K/ea and can put out over 80 HP. :eek: Not mine though, it's about half that to keep it streetable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These lightweight built engines go for upwards of $4K/ea and can put out over 80 HP. :eek: Not mine though, it's about half that.

Are you surprised at that much? My FSAE team runs pretty well stock Honda 600cc engines which put out almost that much breathing through a 20mm restrictor. Unrestricted, they run at 115-120, I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you surprised at that much? My FSAE team runs pretty well stock Honda 600cc engines which put out almost that much breathing through a 20mm restrictor. Unrestricted, they run at 115-120, I think.

 

I guess you are clueless regarding single cylinder dirt track........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mm, missed out on the single cylinder. My bad. Yeah, I am pretty clueless...

 

That's okay, most folks are. That's about the max HP a 500cc limit thumper can put out. The built Honda and Yamaha singles come close but don't last long. Nothing to me sounds as sexy as a built Rotax 4-stroke thumper screaming at full RPM. They sound like nothing else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a few other FSAE teams running singles, and while they don't make quite as much power, the weight savings from the lighter engine and less steel in the shorter more compact chassis (usually about 100 lbs or so lighter altogether) mostly make up for it. Our team still runs the four-bangers though, because they're supposedly easier to come by. It's not really my department, though. I'm mostly just involved with the drivetrain after the transmission sprocket.

But sorry for the :hijack:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...