Zebvance Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 oh block warmer...oh block warmer what are you doing here? This is Texas, Don't you know that there is one season here? Its called Hot! I would never plug you in because you are 25 years old and would probably give me a arson charge with the local PD... I know this Frankenstein, money pit, rust bucket of a mj came from the maple leaf land many many moons ago, hbut my questions are..... Should I dare to plug you in for $#!&s and giggles? How do you only have 100k miles? Why do you have a 1992 transfer-case? why do you have a 2001 Cherokee dana 30? What year is your rear Cherokee dana 35 out of? ( I need to change your brakes) Did you come with bucket seats? Did you really begin as a 2wd? What tramadic episode have you been in to have bondo on ALL FOUR corners of you? Why is there a E -Brake center console when I have a Floor E brake? ( that doesn't even work...) Why does your 4x4 light not work? Why do I always feel like I just got tetanus when I'm working on you? Why are you lifted 4.5 inches in the front and 9 inches in the back???!?!?!?!!?! YOU LOOK STUPID! Why is your roof dented, oil pan dented by you upper control arm mount, and trans cooling lines kinked like you have bee rolled over or something? Why do you have to have your gauges in OIL BARS, KPH, CELSIUS? ( thank goodness for a iPhone conversion apps....) Why do you have the door-less mod done to you but I cannot pull your doors off still? Well that's half of my frustration out for the world to see..... If only I had one more beer it would be twice as long.... Love yours truly.... THE PENNY SNIFFER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny quest Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 plug in the block warmer; there's a decent chance all your other problems will 'disappear' :teehee: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Unless the cord's shorting, you're unlikely to start a fire with the block heater, as it will only ever increase coolant temperature by about 25°C (45°F), and it typically takes a good eight hours to do that much. Assuming the thing works, you'll likely hear a low hiss after you plug it in, like a really quiet electric kettle. That's about it. Unless your speedo's very different from mine, it likely also reads in mph, no? Also, mine's marked up to 115mph, unlike the good ol' 85 you got down south. As for the rest of the dash, 100°C is boiling. But I've got no clue what the oil pressure gauge means, either... I just watch where it normally sits and hope "normal" really is normal... :dunno: As for everything else wrong with it, I'm going to blame the idiotic defector who likely brought it down there for that. Didn't he know you're supposed to bring the rust-free Texas trucks this direction, and not take the incredibly rare rust-free Canadian trucks down there? :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 Unless the cord's shorting, you're unlikely to start a fire with the block heater, as it will only ever increase coolant temperature by about 25°C (45°F), and it typically takes a good eight hours to do that much. Assuming the thing works, you'll likely hear a low hiss after you plug it in, like a really quiet electric kettle. That's about it. Unless your speedo's very different from mine, it likely also reads in mph, no? Also, mine's marked up to 115mph, unlike the good ol' 85 you got down south. As for the rest of the dash, 100°C is boiling. But I've got no clue what the oil pressure gauge means, either... I just watch where it normally sits and hope "normal" really is normal... :dunno: As for everything else wrong with it, I'm going to blame the idiotic defector who likely brought it down there for that. Didn't he know you're supposed to bring the rust-free Texas trucks this direction, and not take the incredibly rare rust-free Canadian trucks down there? :nuts: the gauges.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 mm... guess they musta changed them going to '91... mine: Or else a different speedometer was used in the gauge set with the tach... I suppose you could always draw yourself an overlay that converts them, and carefully cut and paste? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Oil pressure gauge - one bar = 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure). So, if it normally sits around 3 on the gauge, you have approximately 45 PSI oil pressure. You can Google a metric conversion chart or calculator for pressure, temperature, kph/ mph, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Or swap in a US gauge cluster from the junk yard. Cherokees are everywhere.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubberDuck Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 plug in the block warmer; there's a decent chance all your other problems will 'disappear' :teehee: :yeah that: :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Huh, well, let's see what I can answer. You have a 86 and earlier Canadian gauge cluster. Without even knowing the year of that truck, I know it didn't come with it. It's also the most undesirable cluster, unless you're really bad at forgetting to get gas. It most likely has Cherokee bucket seats and center console... Hence the ebrake in the console thing. I bet it did start as a 2wd, it would explain the odd combination of parts... It's also likely why the 4wd light does not work, as the earlier ones used a vacuum switch to actuate it, then it just went to a normal old switch that was actuated by the shift rail in the tcase. Does the D35 have a rubber fill plug by chance? How'd they do the door mod? Cut hinges, or knock the pins out and weld in bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Huh, well, let's see what I can answer. You have a 86 and earlier Canadian gauge cluster. Without even knowing the year of that truck, I know it didn't come with it. It's also the most undesirable cluster, unless you're really bad at forgetting to get gas. 87 still used the same cluster. I believe they changed in 88, then again in 91 for the electronic speedometer and fuel sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 You need to get rid of that block heater and get a real freeze plug back in it. They don't last long especially if its the type that seals with an o-ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Sorry, what? A properly fitting block heater will seal just as well as a freeze plug. If it's not leaking, it's best to leave it alone. Do you know how many 30+ year old cars there are up here running around with an original factory block heater? I can't quote exact figures, but it's going to be a huge majority... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 I'm referring to the cheap over the shelf types. I've had them leak before and just mention it as a precaution. If its not needed a freeze plug would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Oh, yeah, the over the counter ones aren't worth much... One of Motor Trend's Roadkill vids on youtube had a car they were planning on taking from the sourth west to Alaska... figured they needed a block heater, so they got a cheapy. And then went through at least three of them. And they didn't get anywhere close to Alaska. (Maybe CO?) But since his is a Canadian model, I'd assume it's got a stocker on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 thats such a good looking truck but i cringe everytime i see it because of that rear end sitting way too high. please for the love of god, lower that $#!& man!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Either that or lift the front more :brows: I do believe that's just a little bit more rake than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 I'm referring to the cheap over the shelf types. I've had them leak before and just mention it as a precaution. If its not needed a freeze plug would be better.  There's decent over the shelf ones... Actually, I don't know anywhere that sells cheap ones up here. I had one blow apart due to corrosion... And that's it. The ones that corroded had been in there for a while (15+ years). Never had issues with any of the rest of them. I put silicone grease on the o-ring when I install them (DC-4), route the wire appropriately, and enjoy having a vehicle that actually might start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 87 still used the same cluster. I believe they changed in 88, then again in 91 for the electronic speedometer and fuel sender. The 87s I dealt with didn't have the cluster :dunno: Or I'm confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 The 88 and newer ones use red markings and a different connection for the speedometer cable than the 87 and older ones that use blue icons (and blue km/h numbers on the US ones). The 87 and older ones also have a tick for every 1 mph whereas the 88 and newer one have one tick for every 2.5 mph. Both styles are available with gauges and with dummy lights. I think the newer ones with gauges automatically had a tach, but the older ones with gauges could be had with or without a tach. Older one with gauges AND tach can be difficult to find. With gauges but no tach is quite common, and I should have one somewhere, but all I can find right now are two dummy light ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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