Winchesterjeep Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Some of you may have been down this road already, but are there any tricks to getting the two top transmission bolts loosened? I'm having a terrible time trying to break them loose. I've tried about all I know including using an elbow, extensions and a 2' pipe on the ratchet. Not sure if they've been loosened since '87. Thanks! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Put a floor jack and wood block under the trans, pull the crossmember and trans mount, then lower the trans/T-case a little at a time until you can get to the bolts without a U-joint extension. Wrap one hand around the trans (holding the head of the socket), put the ratchet at 90 degrees to the body, and do a pull up on the ratchet. It will break free. If they're the original Torx bolts be very careful...they tend to round off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winchesterjeep Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 I thought they might be torx, but I thought surely not. Do you happen to remember what size? I need to go get a torx set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 On both my daughter's 96 XJ and the 96 parts XJ the top two bolt were Torx. Actually, IIRC they were inverse Torx. I seem to remember E10, but I could be wrong on that too. Memory is getting a bit fuzzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 They're E10s. Once you get them out, toss them. Either replace them with a standard (IIRC) 3/8 x 16 hex bolt, or take the Pete method, and use studs to help with trans alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 And, loosen/remove them first!! If not, the bind on them will make the job much more difficult. I thought E12? Too cold to go out to the garage and check this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 E12..... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I could have sworn I used an E10 on those bastards. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFAComanche6 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Put a floor jack and wood block under the trans, pull the crossmember and trans mount, then lower the trans/T-case a little at a time until you can get to the bolts without a U-joint extension. Wrap one hand around the trans (holding the head of the socket), put the ratchet at 90 degrees to the body, and do a pull up on the ratchet. It will break free. If they're the original Torx bolts be very careful...they tend to round off. Yes, I pulled my transmission yesterday for the 2nd time and just recently had to figure this out myself. It saved me about 2 hours from the previous time, but it still takes forever and a day to pull a 4wd tranny (fyi to anyone thinking to convert a 2wd to 4wd). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I had to pull and re-install my AW4 4-5 times...because of my own inexperience and impatience getting it all right. I'm really good at it now. :thumbsup: I can pull it in about 20 minutes now. I did not have to suffer the torx heads, the BA/10 had apparently been out before and PO had re-installed it with regular hex heads...although they were grade 5's. All better now, I put in hex grade 8's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Yep, replaced those SOB's with regular bolts when I did the swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 as Correy mentioned, I replaced them with grade 8 studs. that way they can be used to help align the trans for re-installation. :thumbsup: worked great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Wish I would've thought of that. If it comes out again. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winchesterjeep Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Just as a followup they were E12 bolts. I'll try the stud replacement option. Has anyone had trouble getting the studs to seal? I plan to use a sealant to avoid oil leaks from the block based on the amount of oil that covered the bolts when I took them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Just as a followup they were E12 bolts. I'll try the stud replacement option. Has anyone had trouble getting the studs to seal? I plan to use a sealant to avoid oil leaks from the block based on the amount of oil that covered the bolts when I took them out. Not necessary to seal them. Your valve cover gasket leaked out the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codymanche Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 I just did this yesterday lucky me I had the bolts swapped out too. I did mine a lil different tho. I used a ratchet with a long @$$ extension and a swivel attachment with the socket. And worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Yup lower tranny first, bestest safest way to avoid problems, besides it's going to get lowered eventually. X3 on the studs, IMHO best way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialkeay Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Just had one of the top E-12 Torx head round off. I am out of ideas besides pulling the engine. Any suggestions so I don't have to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Use a decent quality 12 point socket that's as close to E12 as you can find, then use an extension and BFH to drive it on the Torx head. If you're lucky there will be enough to let you loosen the bolt. The other alternative is a Dremel and that's miserable :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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