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Project Daily Driver - Mb Diesel Comanche, Should I Pull The Trigger?


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Hi Guys,

 

I've been drooling over Comanche's on this website for quite some time, and I am very close to joining the club but wanted to reach out and ask some advice before the plunge. I want an MJ for use in light off roading, hunting, fishing, and daily driving 100+ miles five days per week.

 

My dream MJ daily driver is based on two vehicles that I have modified and owned for years:

  • 2001 Jeep Cherokee Limited - I swapped the NP231 for a NP242. Works great in MN winters.
  • 1983 300TD - Auto to 5 speed manual swap. Fantastic car, returns 30+ MPG's on freeway.

The line up for my MJ is this:

  • 617 Mercedes Diesel engine swap - Using Koch enterprises kit - http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/
  • Full-Time 4WD Transfer case - Either NP242, NP229 or ? Looking for advice
  • 5 Speed Manual - Looks like a few options, AX5, AX15, etc. Looking for advice
  • 97+ Interior Swap - Would like to, but this may complicate things too much. Looking for advice
  • WVO Conversion - Homebrew conversion using state of the art components. I've owned a Benz on WVO, this is very practical given the miles I drive

Currently I'm looking at buying a 1986 MJ to start my project. It has the 4 cylinder and AX4 transmission. The owner does not know the TC type, I will hopefully go see it this weekend.

 

My questions are:

  • Wanting a 5 speed with full-time 4WD (for MN winter driving) should I attempt an AX15 upgrade with 242 Transfer Case or should I upgrade the AX4 to AX5 and get a 228/229 Transfer case?
  • 97+ interior swap does look fantastic but can it be done in conjunction with the diesel swap? Could I just put in ZJ buckets and it would look halfway decent without completely rebuilding?
  • Rust proofing, if I coat the underside with POR 15/Miracle paint will I be able to drive this relatively worry free in MN winters? All this work I want a truck that will last.
  • Any other things to look out for before buying the 1986 MJ? If I should pass and go for an 88+ MJ please let me know why.

Thanks for any and all advice. You guys do great work restoring those MJ's, I hope to join the club soon!

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Where abouts in Minnesota are you? There's a few of us around these parts... not many though. Neat idea with the waste oil as well. I did the same thing on a VW Jetta a number of years ago. Welcome to the MN chapter of CC!

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Well I'm just not yet :) I'm hoping to pull the trigger and buy the 86 comanche within a week. I'm trying to figure out the manual transmission and transfer case combo that ill need. Also if the 86 might not be the best for what I'm doing...

 

I'm in the north metro area. I've dabbled in diesel Benz cars for years now, making my 300td to near mint shape. My XJ is a great Jeep too, I just can't stop thinking about how the perfect vehicle would be an MJ with the Benz engine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The OM617 actually fits great in a Comanche, I am building an '86 MJ with a '78 turbo OM617 using the Koch adapter kit and a '98 AX-15. The engine is all in and running, I just need to finish the flatbed and get the driveshafts back from being shortened. Here are a couple pics during the build. Good luck with the Comanche hunt!

 

 

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How is the oil pan clearance in that mj? I was talking to the guy at the york jeep show who runs that business and he told me the oil pump sticks out the bottom which is why you can't chop it very far or convert it to a rear sump. With the chopped pan, the wranglers just barely clear the front axle. They are positioned a good 4-6" farther foward than xjs, so obvious problems for the xjs.

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I set the engine as far up as possible, even clearancing the hood support braces. The top front of the valve cover is about a 1/2" from the hood. Then we fabbed a trackbar drop bracket and installed an extreme drop pitman arm. The draglink comes about 1/4" from the oil pan when turned fully left, so I will be notching the pan just a bit. I also will be limited on up-travel but I'd rather have that limitation than a hole in the oil pan. Oh and it's got a 5.5" lift

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Take your time and find a rust free MJ. The one you had in mind was very clean. You don't need a clean truck if you do the engine and interior conversions. A $500 clunker from Colorado or down south would be a better candidate. It doesn't need to run or look good and why fight rust issues on top of all the other work you've got planned?

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