starkizer Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I am rebuilding my rear end due to having both spider gears shreded! So I have questions! The plate on the diff cover reads 5304770 3.08 605324-1 I am taking that to mean that its a 3.08 gear ratio, and the other numbers I am assuming are serial numbers or some other garbage I won't under stand. I have searched all over the internet and have found about 0 total spider gears. I have found loaded carrier cases or whatever they are that say for 3.55 and down ratios. What I would like to know is... 1: Am I correct, the gear ratio is 3.08? 2: Is the gear ratio for the ring and pinion, the spiders or all of it? 3: Do I have to stick with 3.08 gear ratio? <--- I will change out everything if needed The front axle is Dana 30 and 3.07. (I think) If anyone knows where I can buy parts, please let me know! I am trying to keep with buying new parts, I would like to stay away from scrap yards. If there is any other info I need I would be happy to supply it. Any help I can get would be great. Thank you everyone! Jeep On! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 You are correct. You have a 3.08 ratio. Spider gears are immaterial to the ratio. Ring gear and pinion all that counts. They can be changed to whatever you want, IE< afford.Type Jeep ring gear and pinion in the search box of your browser. You'll be inundated with responses. Quadratec.com has a nice selection. I mention them because I have their catalog on the desk looking at the chick,,,er,,,Jeep on the front cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 You should be able to use spider gears out of any dana 35 from a junkard. Put up a post in the Classifieds and somebody probably has a junk axle around that hasn't been tossed yet and they can pull the spiders for you. {EDIT}Any Dana 35 from the years 1986 through 1989. Your axle is (or should be) a non C-clip axle. In 1990 Chrysler switched to a C-clip design and I don't think the spider gears are the same. (Not sure on that.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 I have a post in the classified Ads for the whole axle and we talked about spider gears but I don't think I have any takers. so when searching for spider gears I don't need to look for a specific gear ratio. I just need to find spider gears for a Dana 35? what about the loaded carriers do they need to be specific for the 3.08? the ring and pinion gears are the only gears that are not stripped. so I could change the ring and pinion and regear the whole differential? but I need to stay within .01 of the front axle right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 sorry I think I double posted. at least the new page works on my phone though sort of... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 please, please, pleeeeeeease don't spend much on a Dana 35. they are a WEAK axle and not worth the money. changing ring/pinion gears is not as straight-forward as you might hope. spider gears are pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 I know I could get a 44, but don't I have to change the front if I change the rear? I don't go wheeling and honestly I drive 5-10 miles a day, but it is my daily driver so I need it running. I found a spider gear kit for about $150.00. Think that's about right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 That's about 5 times what the axle is worth, and about as much as it costs to buy a Chrysler 8.25" with matching gear ratio and have it m odified to fit under your truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I've seen R&Ps go for $150... those spiders better be made out of diamond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 junkyard, junkyard, junkyard. I cannot emphasize enough how worthless these axles can be when they start failing. brand new spider gears will not benefit any more than 5 bucks of junkyard gears. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I was really hoping I wouldnt have to remove the actual axl, but it seems like maybe thats the way to go. I don't have air tools and am worried I'm not strong enough to bust the bolts loose. What is it, basicly the shocks come out. Pull the Ubolts holding the leaf springs on, couple break lines and the thing falls out........ basicly right? So here is my confession of the day.... Ive never bought anything from a junk yard.... how do they work? I assume I go there, wonder around till I find someone that works there, tell them I need parts off a Jeep, they will point, then I gotta hunt the Jeep down. Then pull the parts I need myself, take them back to the guy, he tells me a price and then I'm all like, oh crap, you don't take credit cards... then I go get cash, then by the time I get back they are closed and I have to do it all over again? Or at least something like the first part of that? Seriously though, how do Junk Yards work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 either you walk in to the front desk and tell them what you're looking for and they go get it (for normal junkyards), or you walk in and pull the part yourself (for pull a part style yards). be prepared that a normal yard may not want to split up an axle if they think they can sell it whole. try pull-a-part.com or lkqselfserve.com to see if they have a yard near you. and there are lots more pull your part style junkyards out there. those 2 are just a couple of the biggest chains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 If the stars align and the heavens open up and I happen to find a Dana 44 with a gear ratio of 3.08, I should be able to slap the whole thing in and NOT change the front at all, right? God I hope so. I really don't want to mess with the front axle, and I know if I can't find SOMETHING to fit in the same gear ratio as the front then I'll have to change the front too. Any suggestions on what I should pay for a whole axle? I am willing to drop another axle in if thats what I need to do, but as I said.... I really, really don't want to change the front too. On another note.... how bad would I screw things up to pull the rear drive shaft, throw it into 4x4 and drive with just the front? Not that I would do that or anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Unless it's been modified with a later style transfer case, you truck has an internally lubricated slip yoke on the rear driveshaft, meaning the splines are lubricated by the transmission fluid circulating through the transfer case. If you drive around without a rear driveshaft it will happily pump out all the fluid which will then most likely cost you a new transfer case as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 personally I'd be willing to pay up to $300 for an MJ dana 44 in good shape and with the ratio I needed. $150 for anything else. but if the only broken part is your spider gears, it's super cheap and fairly easy to get junkyard ones and swap them in. Just don't spend much on that axle because if there is an underlying cause for the breakage, it can happen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I really apperciate all the input, thats what I love most about the comanche club. Thank you everyone. I think thats what worries me the most about doing the whole axle swap is paying to much then finding out I have the same problem. I think I will get online and look for junk yards in my area and go try them out today. I am new to South Texas and don't know the area so it might take me longer to find a yard then it will to swap the gears. I have today and tomorrow off work, so HOPEFULLY I will be driving my own truck to work on Thursday! I will of course post the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 throw a topic in the pub about looking for texas junkyards :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Did you try carpart.com may narrow down the search. http://www.car-part.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I found a great looking pull a part in Corpus Christi, about 40 miles away so not bad at all! Looks like its a pretty decent find, but I'm trying to get my old parts out first so I know what parts I need and what tools I need to do it. Now I'm gonna have to figure out how to get the axle shafts out so I can get the carrier out. I'm gonna look around you tube, but if anyone has a good write up, post a link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Ok, so I have watched a million videos (give or take a few hundred thousand) and they seem to have a bolt holding that pin in that holds the spiders in. Mine does not have a bolt.... It has what looks like an allen head thats flush in the thing. Except no Allen head that I have fits in the thing, and I have an entire drawer full of them. So I'm wondering if maybe the thing broke off or something. I also noticed I only have like 2 bolts holding the ring gear on and there is a spot for like 12, so that concerns me. There is also a good chunk of one tooth missing on the pinion gear so that ticks me off. Theres a lot of damage in this thing. Suckfest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 consider it dead and start shopping for a whole axle. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 That Allen looking screw might be a tension pin. You drive it out with a thin drift (I made one out of a screwdriver with the head ground off) and a hammer. But if you're missing ring gear bolts and a tooth on the pinion gear I agree with Pete. Start looking for a replacement axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 This sucks. If I didn't have such an obsession with the Comanche I would just sell it and be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 So. I will take everyones advice and do an axle swap. So what axle should I be looking for? Dana 44 seems to be a popular choice. What is the likely hood that I will be able to slap it in and NOT have a million other things happen that I need to change? IE, the drive shaft doesnt line up or something crazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 It sounds very much like your D35 is thoroughly trashed, and I would very much advise you not to spend a single penny on trying to repair it. If you found a good junkyard, find yourself a rear axle out of a newer Cherokee (there must be some in Texas with 5 speeds). The axle will be the correct width, and the driveshaft yoke will mate right up with your driveshaft u-joints. ALL you will need to do is pay a welder to cut the spring perches off the Cherokee axle and remount them in the same position as on the D25. You should even be able to use the old percehes. That's probably one to two hours of easy work for a decent welder. Then just bolt it in. The nose of the Chrysler axle is about an inch longer than the D35, so you might need to have your driveshaft shortened a bit. If your truck is lifted an inch or two, the extra length will probably just compensate for the lift. I think the Chrysler XJ axle route is, overall, going to be a lot less work and a lot less money than fighting a trashed Dana 35, and you'll have a better, sttronger axle when you get finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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