Eagle Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 there's no need to try and follow the original lines. that'll drive you nuts. just be sure that they are up out of the way from harm. :thumbsup: Pete, you missed the part where he said he's a restoration guy. I appreciate that ... we try to do everything as close to original as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I found that stupid thing for the load adjusting bed sensor or whatever the heck it is. I would like to keep it simply for original parts (I'm a restoration guy) Can anyone send me a pic of theres so I know I put it back on right? I don't blame you. If it's working as it should, keep it. D44 D35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Pete, you missed the part where he said he's a restoration guy. I appreciate that ... we try to do everything as close to original as possible. well, then I'm giving him fair warning that following the original lines means dropping the gas tank. :( personally, I like to improve on factory when I can, even if it's only in subtle, almost invisible ways. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 well, then I'm giving him fair warning that following the original lines means dropping the gas tank. No it doesn't. Been there -- done that. XJ and MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 then you've got better skills than I. :thumbsup: (not that there was any real doubt to that :rotf:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Well, the thing is in the right spot.... the bolts holding the bracket on for the adjuster thing... man I need to take a picture. Ok, its mounted in the right spot but the lever thing is pointing slightly upwards. Maybe The axle itself is higher then it was before? I don't know... I will take a picture and post tomorrow when there is light outside. I have no idea if the thing works... I assume it does because I have never had any weird brake problems or anything. I did have the right rear wheel lock up on me but that was due to the ebrake line being seized up. I replaced both of them too and need to make a new braket or something where they hook up to the other cable. (I bought them for a Cherokee not a Comanche) I am hoping that I can push the individual lines through the openings around the gas tank and all the other areas. I found out I can get 20' of line for under 30 bucks. Its not exactly Ideal to have fittings every 5' or so, but If it means not having to make my own ends or not having to drop the tank then I'm game :) I was wondering too, should I be on a new thread... this is the same project but sort of a different topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Maybe the springs have sagged over time? Is it is just up a bit it shouldn't cause a problem. It is 25 year old technology, and the rear break bias adjustment is not an exact science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Its not up a giant amount or anything. I'll take a pic tonight. Is it possible that I had it up to high and that's what blew my brake line? Or is that just nonsense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Its not up a giant amount or anything. I'll take a pic tonight. Is it possible that I had it up to high and that's what blew my brake line? Or is that just nonsense? Not possible. Your brake line blew because of 25 years of rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 then you've got better skills than I. :thumbsup: (not that there was any real doubt to that :rotf:) Skill had little to do with it. I'm just obstinate. (Ask my wife :) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Skill had little to do with it. I'm just obstinate. (Ask my wife :) ) I always apperciate the amount of time and effort that restoration guys (like me) put into the projects they work on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 There she is. Thinking I just need to move the bracket around or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 The valve arm is too high because of the SOA convert. The arm should be just slightly above parallel to the axle tube. You could shorten the existing rod, or make a new adjustable rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 The valve arm is too high because of the SOA convert. The arm should be just slightly above parallel to the axle tube. You could shorten the existing rod, or make a new adjustable rod. ?????? The spring definitely sits BELOW the axle. My guess is that you your old tired leafs are sagging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 ?????? The spring definitely sits BELOW the axle. My guess is that you your old tires leafs are sagging. Okay, you're right. I'm blind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Things sag when they get old :) I know there is a write up on making your own adjustable link thing. I'll have to make one. I noticed too that the passenger side sits a little higher then the drivers and I looked at it and figured out why. I put the helper spring on the wrong way. The side that should be facing the rear is facing the front and the very tip of it is resting on that little bracket. I really don't want to take that all off again. I might just move the bracket :P Should be installing all new brake lines tomorrow! Can anyone tell me which outlet the rear line is on that splitter thing by the master? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 the labeled one is the rear output. the one below it is the emergency rear output that bypasses the rear prop valve should the front brakes fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Should be installing all new brake lines tomorrow! Can anyone tell me which outlet the rear line is on that splitter thing by the master? I thought you wanted to retain the function of the rear height-sensing valve. If that's correct, you have TWO lines to the rear, and you need to keep them clearly differentiated so you don't totally FUBAR the way your rear brakes [used to] work. See Pete's photo: . The line coming out of the "nose" of the metering block is the one that normally feeds the rear brakes. That feeds into the rear height-sensing valve, and the pressure it sends to the rear gets modulated ("proportioned") by the height-sensing valve. Below that, the one in Pete's photo that has an arrow with the caption cut off has the line removed and a plug installed. That's the outlet for the rear brake bypass, and it normally has a second line going to the rear that goes into the rear lines downstream from the height-sensing valve. The purpose is so that in the event you lose the front brakes, if the bed has no load the height-sensing valve allows almost no braking in the rear. The bypass allows the rear brakes to operate at full pressure if the fronts fail, so you at least have some brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 note that I screwed up which was which and had to splice in a tiny line to fix it. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 See Pete's photo: . Pete, is your photo a mirror image? Looks backward to me if you are looking at the metering block from the drivers side. :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 mine is no longer in the stock location. I moved it up to where I can easily work on it. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 I see now said the blind man. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Had no idea that there where 2 lines going back that way. I thought it was just the 1 line then it split at the load adjusting thing. I bought 20 feet of new brake line so now I guess I get figure out which one is broken and replace it. Wish I had one of them cameras on a snake thing that I could squeeze up behind the gas tank. I sell them at work, but there just about as expensive as the axle I just put in. Guess I gotta do it the old fashioned way! I've got 2 days off back to back and that's insanely rare for me so here's to hoping I can do this in 2 days. Think 20' should be enough? I hope so... I would hate to have to go into work on my day off to buy more parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Well, I feel completley dumb now..... It just hit me that I have a freaking axle in the back of my truck! So, I assume the load adjusting thing is most likely exactly where it should be! Duh! :doh: Then, I'm outside working on it today, and I can't see which line is broken so I take a chance and cut out the rusted one. I pulled it out the back side and inspect it for damage, which I can't find. So I figured, dang it man, I cut out the wrong dang line. So I went ahead and cut out the other line... pulled it out and its rust free and spot less....... I cut out the right line first, now I have no choice but to replace them both. So I'm under the hood and I look over and see my speedo cable is resting against the dang exhaust manifold and the inside cable is tottally exposed. That's a project for another day... can't very well worry about speeding if I can't stop anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkizer Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Ok. As much as it pains me... I am going to have to bypass that load adjusting thing anyway. The line going into it is very rusted on. I soaked it with PB blaster and it still won't come off. Ended up stripping it all to hell to. So, at least for now, its gonna have to be bypassed. :( sadness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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