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Vent Window Seals, where?


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I recently bought a 1988 MJ Pioneer (105,000 miles) and can't find new rubber for my vent windows anywhere. I Did find drivers side for like $70 but no pasenger side anywhere. Would love to replace all the rubber seals as I'm having the floors replaced now already (rusty as hell all the way back under seat even.) The carpet was soaked, damn thing was sitting out for 2 years. Does anyone have a solution for the issue? Do the CJ ones fit? They are only $20.

 

I searched through the net and all over this and other Jeep forums.

 

Not new to jeeps as I have an 02 WJ 3" lift and built a ZJ with a 5"....just new to MJ's and their issues.

 

Thanks in advance!

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New rubber will not solve the problem. The problem is a defective design.

 

When I bought my '88 Cherokee new in January of 1988, I paid extra to get the operable vent windows. (They were not standard at the Pioneer trim level.) They leaked from the first time it rained. I took it back to the dealership, they brought in the Chrysler factory "service" rep, and he cheerfully informed me that there was a fix.

 

Cool. What's the fix?

 

Remove the operable vents and replace them with the fixed windows. Naturally, that didn't include refunding the money I had paid to get the operable vents, so I declined.

 

I solved it myself -- sort of. NAPA sells a silicone grease under the name Sil-Glyde. I opened the vents, smeared Sil-Glyde on the rubber seals, and closed the windows on the Sil-Glyde. It worked perfectly, as long as I didn't open the windows. If you actually use the vents, you need to renew the Sil-Glyde every couple or three months. Otherwise, it's good for several years at a time.

 

Having gone through that, I realized that I don't actually use the vents, so I just keep them closed. My MJs have the fixed windows, and I have no intention of "upgrading" them to the factory optional leak generators.

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Sorry. Couldn't resist.

You're not sorry at all Jim. :D And for the life of me I can't think of a decent comeback.

 

Bur seriously, they have never leaked H2O or wind whistle when latched shut. I've had lots of other cars with similar vents that did though.

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Sorry. Couldn't resist.

You're not sorry at all Jim. :D And for the life of me I can't think of a decent comeback.

 

Bur seriously, they have never leaked H2O or wind whistle when latched shut. I've had lots of other cars with similar vents that did though.

I think you're lucky.

 

The problem is that the steel channel only runs along the bottom edge of the glass. There's a step from the steel channel to the glass, and at the window corners the rubber can't quite seal that step. That's where mine leaked, and that's where every one I've seen with the operable wing windows leaks. The Sil-Glyde fills that gap with silicone, and that keeps the water out. There was never a problem with wind noise -- the gap wasn't large enough to whistle -- but in anything heavier than a drizzle (heavy fog) that corner always weeped water into the cab.

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Sorry. Couldn't resist.

You're not sorry at all Jim. :D And for the life of me I can't think of a decent comeback.

 

Here ya go Don (with all due apologies to President Jefferson....):

 

"The tree of knowledge must sometimes be refreshed with the application of warm air"

 

8)

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New rubber will not solve the problem. The problem is a defective design.

 

When I bought my '88 Cherokee new in January of 1988, I paid extra to get the operable vent windows. (They were not standard at the Pioneer trim level.) They leaked from the first time it rained. I took it back to the dealership, they brought in the Chrysler factory "service" rep, and he cheerfully informed me that there was a fix.

 

Cool. What's the fix?

 

Remove the operable vents and replace them with the fixed windows. Naturally, that didn't include refunding the money I had paid to get the operable vents, so I declined.

 

I solved it myself -- sort of. NAPA sells a silicone grease under the name Sil-Glyde. I opened the vents, smeared Sil-Glyde on the rubber seals, and closed the windows on the Sil-Glyde. It worked perfectly, as long as I didn't open the windows. If you actually use the vents, you need to renew the Sil-Glyde every couple or three months. Otherwise, it's good for several years at a time.

 

Having gone through that, I realized that I don't actually use the vents, so I just keep them closed. My MJs have the fixed windows, and I have no intention of "upgrading" them to the factory optional leak generators.

Interesting story; but I can't say I'm surprised though. Gotta love those AMC engineers... rolleyes.gif I'll have to remember that Sil-Glyde for when I install some leakers. If I can find a decent pair that is. Apparently the PO never had the window channel weatherstrip on my driver's side wing, so the entire thing is rusting down and has holes in it. So it's basically a non-functioning vent window. :fs1:

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windows are only one of the common leak points. Windshield, door seals, any of the myriad of firewall holes, heck pretty much anything that possibly could leak has lead to water under the carpet. best to check them all. :yes: I've had good success with using baby powder sprinkled around to locate leaks. the water will trickle through the powder and leave trails that lead back to the source. :thumbsup:

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great idea, I'm holding off on putting in the new carpet once my new floorboards are installed until I know for sure she has no leaks. I do know for sure there is a 1/8" gap on the side of the vent window. Even if I wedge something in to pull latch tighter it doesn't fix the gap.

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great idea, I'm holding off on putting in the new carpet once my new floorboards are installed until I know for sure she has no leaks. I do know for sure there is a 1/8" gap on the side of the vent window. Even if I wedge something in to pull latch tighter it doesn't fix the gap.

If it were mine, I would seal it permanently with RTV and forget that it's supposed to be operable.

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