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Dual diaphragm Upgrade part question.


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This is all good to know. I was planning on ordering the NOS brake booster from Team Cherokee for the 95/96 XJ. Drahcir has done this mod on several of his Jeeps and I have yet to attempt it. I hear a lot of horror stories about grinding too much off the arm for the brake light switch. Should hopefully be ordering up the NOS unit soon and getting the brakes done. It is one of my top priorities right now because my Jeep does not stop, even with a new single diaphragm booster. Thanks for all the helpful posts.

 

RockMJ

 

Speaking of Drahcir, where is that rascal? We never see him anymore.

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Back to the brake switch. I had read all the posts, drill hole, grind to match flat spot, etc. That's what I did, I even cut off the old rod and vise gripped it to the new and ground to the flat spot. Measurements with a micrometer were the same. What I finished up with after adding metal, was different measurements, didn't grind off as much, but it works now. I re- installed the brake switch on  the old rod to get a feel for how it worked, also hooked my ohmmeter to it. After grinding the new rod the second time I installed the switch on it to try it out before installing booster in truck. It worked perfectly. So, long story short, don't try and match the old rod the first time. Grind, install switch, try out, grind again only if nessesary. Moving on to installing new brake lines and hose in the rear of truck. Hopefully, I can try it out tomorrow.

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In case anyone decides to go down the road I did

(98-01 XJ Booster/Master & Pedal Assemblies):

 



I used a 2001 XJ Master cylinder/booster & pedal assemblies in my 88' Renix 4.0L 5spd.

I had to use the 88' clutch pedal with the 2001 hanger bracket,

since the 01' clutch pedal arm wanted to be right where the 88' fuse box is.

 

Clutch pedal grabs a little low now (with the 01' clutch cylinder),

probably end up fixing that before it drives me crazy :)

^^I haven't fixed/rebent the 88' clutch pedal to work properly with the 01' XJ pedal assembly master cylinder yet (It needs it to get the clutch pedal back up to the proper height off the floor)

 

but here are a few comparison pics between the 01' XJ & 88' MJ pedal assemblies:

 

unmodified assemblies

01'XJ on left-------88'MJ on right

 

bracket mocked up to attach 01' XJ pedal assemblies into 88' dash (88'MJ on left now, 01'XJ on right):

 

what happends when you put a 01' clutch pedal assembly in an MJ without moving the fuse box:

 

There's no pic,

 but I made up a spacer, and swapped the 88' MJ clutch pedal onto the 01' XJ pedal bracket,

 brake & clutch now both work, without hitting the fuse box,

 but the clutch grabs too low,  clutch pedal needs to be repositioned a bit higher.

 

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I have also written up a nice thread on how to do this conversion with pics and my experience with it. You can go on my profile and find it

 

You can't even post the link to your build thread?  Or the post number? C'mon man. Most newbies that need this info don't know how to find your nice thread. 

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In case anyone decides to go down the road I did

(98-01 XJ Booster/Master & Pedal Assemblies):

unmodified assemblies

01'XJ on left-------88'MJ on right

 

 but the clutch grabs too low,  clutch pedal needs to be repositioned a bit higher.

 

 

I would assume your clutch grabbing low has to do with the change in the fulcrum by what appears to be over an inch further form the firewall.     Even if you bend the pedal lever towards the seat you're not going to gain back the lose of travel for the piston in the clutch master cylinder.    A full clutch depression will probably be equal to about half a stock setup.      

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In case anyone decides to go down the road I did

(98-01 XJ Booster/Master & Pedal Assemblies):

unmodified assemblies

01'XJ on left-------88'MJ on right

 

 but the clutch grabs too low,  clutch pedal needs to be repositioned a bit higher.

 

 

I would assume your clutch grabbing low has to do with the change in the fulcrum by what appears to be over an inch further form the firewall.     Even if you bend the pedal lever towards the seat you're not going to gain back the lose of travel for the piston in the clutch master cylinder.    A full clutch depression will probably be equal to about half a stock setup.      

 

I am also using the 01' clutch master cylinder (with the 01' NV3550) so the 01' fulcrum point should be ok for the master,

as long as the clutch lever attachment point is the same distance from the pivot (I believe it is, but I'll check)

 

Either way, using the 88' pedal on the 01' bracket seems to only change the pedal height,

clutch grabs low, but seems to have its full range,

its just lower.

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I also wanted to say the 01' Clutch master worked very well with the stock 88' pedal and original 88' bracket (once new mounting holes were drilled)

I only changed pedals to get the 01' Brake Master to function as it did in the 01' donor (brake pedal was high with 88' pedals)

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I have also written up a nice thread on how to do this conversion with pics and my experience with it. You can go on my profile and find it

 

You can't even post the link to your build thread? Or the post number? C'mon man. Most newbies that need this info don't know how to find your nice thread.

 

I would but I'm on the new tapatalk app on my phone and don't know how!

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I am also using the 01' clutch master cylinder (with the 01' NV3550) so the 01' fulcrum point should be ok for the master,

 

as long as the clutch lever attachment point is the same distance from the pivot (I believe it is, but I'll check)

 

Either way, using the 88' pedal on the 01' bracket seems to only change the pedal height,

clutch grabs low, but seems to have its full range,

its just lower.

 

That would make a difference.  I re-read and see (01 clutch master) was stated inside of a quote with the photos.    My apologies.      based on new info are you comfortable cutting the clutch pedal on the shaft and rotating it and rewelding?   I would be more inclined to do that then to bend it up.  .   

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According to Don, the 96 is a plug and play deal, but I haven't seen anyone actually install one and give their 2 cents on it.

95-96 XJ swap is PnP for the 91-92 models. For PnP on a Renix you have to use the 91+ brake switch and splice some wires. I think if you retain the Renix switch you must grind the brake rod flat to make contact, but I haven't done a Renix model swap.

 

 

 

I have a 95XJ booster in my Renix MJ.  I ended up just getting brake light switch from a 95 and making a bracket to mount it.  I always had issues with a sticky switch when I tried to reuse the Renix one.

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I used a '97 ZJ booster/master last year with the matching brake pedal so nothing else was modded to fit. I found a universal light switch with bracket that I fastened with a screw that was already above there. Sorry I don't recall the switch part number.

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  • 2 months later...

 

I ended up buying the wj booster/ master.   Here are some pics.   I made my spacer out of 1/4 aluminum.  The lip on the fire wall did have to be bent up some for clearance, and I did have to enlarge the whole on the push rod and ground a flat spot for the brake switch.   Nothing had to be relocated.  I did do a lot of research prior to my purchases.   The 95/96 is a direct bolt for 91+. (no enlarging or griding for switch).   If you get the pedal assembly from a 91+ it should bolt into pre 90 so you can eliminate that as an option.   Another option i did stumble across but didnt explore was a booster from a 2000 wrangler.  The push rod appears identical to that of our renix era booster, however I couldnt find the lenghts of the wranglers rod, so it maybe a direct bolt on.    

 

For the brake lines I purchased a 3' piece of tube with bubble flare with m10 ends then picked up some m12 ends.   cut to length and double flared the other.  It was about half the price doing it this way, and they were the lengths i needed with out adapters. 

 

I've been debating on writing a DIY on this and cover all aspects so we can consolidate all the booster questions that show up all over.    

 

 

 

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What year WJ?

 

I have a 2000 WJ set-up on the bench ready to go into my son-in-law's 87. Looks easier than the 95 to 96 xJ deal , which I just did on my MJ. Will report back. 

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