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Posted

has anybody put them on their comanche? ive seen em on a xj but i want to know what the end result would be on my truck. any pictures would be helpful along with how they mount up to the fender. thanks

Posted

:drool: :drool: Those are some sweet pics!! How much clearance was gainedand how much metal had to be cut out for those flares??

 

comanche.gif

Posted

that looks awesome! totally going that route. does anybody have a pic of how the mount up or at least the hardware involved. I'm gonna make my own home brewed flares and see how nice i can make them. but i have no clue how they mate up to the sheet metal

Posted
that looks awesome! totally going that route. does anybody have a pic of how the mount up or at least the hardware involved. I'm gonna make my own home brewed flares and see how nice i can make them. but i have no clue how they mate up to the sheet metal

Make sure you get with RockMJ before you get them. The fitment in the rear is not the best - but they still look good :cheers:

Posted

I want to eventually make tubing flares like that, and tie them in to the front bumper, rockers, and rear bumper! similar to what Detours did on his XJ

Posted

I've read the instructions for installing them on the front fenders and there is some fender trimming involved. I would assume a similar amount of trimming is required for the rear. Although I believe that not as much trimming is required compared to the cut out flares.

 

And just for reference it looks as though the Comanche that Motion Offroad posted has more trimmed up front than a typical installation.

Posted

Yes they require trimming both front/rear to fit on the MJ. They have a "inner" piece that attaches to the fender than the flare fits over it (shown in photo below).

 

xjbushwackerflatflares_9.jpg

 

Fitment on the rear is awfully dang close. I posted photo's a few months back of them held upto the bed of a MJ to give you a reference. I'm not sure why RockMJ had issues with fitment, it almost looks like they are backwards by the photo's he's posted.

 

 

And just for reference it looks as though the Comanche that Motion Offroad posted has more trimmed up front than a typical installation.

 

You are correct (good eye!). Here is another photo for reference as to the "typical" height of install.

 

xjbushwackerflatflares_7.jpg

Posted

Nope, I don't mind you posting that pic! The main reason why I ran into issues is that the holes in the MJ body for the rears do not match up with the XJ body holes. You need to redrill most (IIRC) of the holes if not all of them and move them down and outboard/inboard accordingly. I assure you the flares are on the correct sides and facing the proper ways. They only fit on the Jeep one way as the contours from side to side are different. The contours on the inner fender of the BW only allow them to sit so low and because of the lip on the fender of the bed it keeps them too high to allow the gaps to close properly. I don't know if the XJ's fender sides are different as in the holes and lip is lower. I really don't know how to answer that one but I spent a full day slowly trimming small amounts off trying to fit them up correctly. I took my time doing the job but for whatever reason I ended up with gaps at the back of the flares. It sucks but ill live with it. Hope that helps

 

RockMJ

Posted

Ditto everything said by RockMJ with regard to the rear flares. I got them on but with quite a bit of fiddling.

I think the best advice for the rears is to disregard the template and "sneak up on it" ...and definatly take your time.

Perhaps Buswacker with a bit of prodding could look into a slight modification to the rears from the obviously designed for a cherokee product,

and/or better instructions included for the rear of the MJ.

I too have gaps I am not happy with but will run this way for now. The only way to get the flares to drop down far enough to correctly follow the contour of the body

would be to add a bit more sheet metal...don't see any getting around it. I may go that route if I decide to swap over the bed from the trailer to the truck.

I will be piddling with bodywork anyway this summer in prep for paint. I would buy another rear set of flares and do the job right, adding to the sheet metal on the bed.

If I do go that route I will post a step by step for those interested. But do understand that I am thrilled with the product and the look on the truck.

I was just the "wow I've never seen a jeep truck like yours" look I was after....(wait till Fessler does my rear Bumper).

Also working on roof bows (bent from 1.0" square X .083" wall tube) to mount a cavas soft top.

Post pics when I get a bit further down the road on that one.

Weather glorious in the rokies this morning!!!

 

Bob in Denver

Posted

so as I'm sitting here looking at all this information. I'm thinking homemade fenders will look to goofy and most likely ruin the truck. and for the price of bushwackers i think i would just put forward another 50 and rustys bulge fenders for the front and figure out something else for the bed. keep the whole trophy truck look going.

Posted
I took my time doing the job but for whatever reason I ended up with gaps at the back of the flares. It sucks but ill live with it. Hope that helps

 

RockMJ

 

From the pictures, I can't see the gap. Can you post a close up so I can see the gap you're talking about?

Posted

Rymanrph

 

Will try to shoot some close-ups tonight and post em...

I did not feel they (gaps) were any big deal as I will be pulling them (flares) back off to do the body work.....

Posted
so as I'm sitting here looking at all this information. I'm thinking homemade fenders will look to goofy and most likely ruin the truck. and for the price of bushwackers i think i would just put forward another 50 and rustys bulge fenders for the front and figure out something else for the bed. keep the whole trophy truck look going.

 

It just depends on how you make them. I made mine out of metal and I think they turned out great. The only issue with using metal is attaching them. I decided to fully weld them, however you could put a rubber strip on the backside so they sit flush to the body, then attach them just to the frame, that way you wouldn't burn any paint off from welding.

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