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Posted

il be swaping a ford 9" in sometime next week the axle has a disc brake setup on it. i have not seen the axle yet but i was wondering how hard it will be to hook up the e-brake.

Posted

the end result will be 4.56 gears front and back and i wanted to run 32" tires. is this a good match up with my 2.5 liter?

Posted
That makes more sense, ive never seen a 9" with disc brakes. 8.8s off of exploreres had disc brakes so are nice finds.

 

The lincoln versailles had a disk brake 9"

Posted

so about hooking the e brake up. plug and play or am i going to need some custom cables? also will the discs work with our potioning valve. mine is still in good working order. plus i have a backup one

Posted

here's one solution I found online. this person simply wrapped the cable around and clamped it to itself in his TJ:

 

Posted

question, and sorry about the highjack, at least it has to do with the 8.8.

 

What year explorer did the 8.8 come in? do they have to be bobbed?

and how much power do you think it can handle?

 

thanks

Posted
so about hooking the e brake up. plug and play or am i going to need some custom cables? also will the discs work with our potioning valve. mine is still in good working order. plus i have a backup one

Here's how I did it. Used the Ford brake clevis; you can get them from Lokar or elsewhere. If you're not lifted over 3" or so your original cables are long enough. Which "potioning valve" (proportioning?) valve are you thinking of? On an MJ the front brass piece going to the master cylinder is no more than a distribution block; brake biasing is done by the rear load sensing valve. It works fine with disk brakes.

 

Posted
so about hooking the e brake up. plug and play or am i going to need some custom cables? also will the discs work with our potioning valve. mine is still in good working order. plus i have a backup one

Here's how I did it. Used the Ford brake clevis; you can get them from Lokar or elsewhere. If you're not lifted over 3" or so your original cables are long enough. Which "potioning valve" (proportioning?) valve are you thinking of? On an MJ the front brass piece going to the master cylinder is no more than a distribution block; brake biasing is done by the rear load sensing valve. It works fine with disk brakes.

 

its the load sensing valve. thanks for the photos everyone.

Posted
all explorers had the 8.8. 95+ had disk brakes. they can handle a lot of power. :thumbsup:

 

what about bobbing? and do you have a recommendation as to a front axle upgrade, nothing crazy, just something more than my d35

 

thanks

Posted

the explorer axle is a hair narrower than the dana 35. it's commonplace to add in 2" spacers so that it pushes the rear tires out wider than the stock axle to afford better clearance from the frame and to better match the front of the truck (the stock axles are the same width, but the rear of an MJ is wider than the front and that's why the rear tires tuck in like they do)

 

the front dana 30 can be upgraded with late model shafts to get the bigger ujoints, or aftermarket alloy shaft, or trusses, etc. it's got it's limits though, and what you can do with it depends on what engine/tires/terrain you're planning to run.

Posted
the explorer axle is a hair narrower than the dana 35. it's commonplace to add in 2" spacers so that it pushes the rear tires out wider than the stock axle to afford better clearance from the frame and to better match the front of the truck (the stock axles are the same width, but the rear of an MJ is wider than the front and that's why the rear tires tuck in like they do)

 

the front dana 30 can be upgraded with late model shafts to get the bigger ujoints, or aftermarket alloy shaft, or trusses, etc. it's got it's limits though, and what you can do with it depends on what engine/tires/terrain you're planning to run.

2" of spacers , total or per side?

Posted

1.5"-2" per side (depending on the brand). only buy high quality hub-centric spacers. don't cheap out here. :thumbsup:

Posted

the front dana 30 can be upgraded with late model shafts to get the bigger ujoints, or aftermarket alloy shaft, or trusses, etc. it's got it's limits though, and what you can do with it depends on what engine/tires/terrain you're planning to run.

 

Think turbocharged stroker kinda power and 33s. 8)

Posted

then I would abandon the 9" and 30 and go straight to an 8 lug 60 rear and 44 front out of a 3/4 ton 79ish ford. at the minimum.

Posted

you really don't think a rear Ford 9" would hold? I don't plan I drag racing the thing, just hitting the mud a few times a week with my buddies.

 

question, what woud you consider to be the weakest link in the running gear?

universals?

and what exactly would i break if i left it all stock under there? just curious

thanks,

 

i should probably start my own thread huh?

Posted

I have been all over the net looking for a WMS to WMS chart and one doesn't seem to exist apparently. Piece meal at best.

 

XJ/MJ WXS is 60.5 as best I can tell and I'd really like to find one at about 62" for a rear swap.

 

 

I'll see what I can come up with on the Lincoln rear.

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