BA-10 Fill plug stuck

[comanche1989]

Hi, I'm new to this forum, and to my Jeep Comanche, which is my first car. :D Its a 1989 Pioneer, with the 4 liter and the 5 speed manual. It was my luck to get the BA-10 transmission instead of the AX-15. Since I'm working on a high school, minimum wage job budget, i can't afford to just swap in an AX-15, and my BA-10 works fine. So anyways, i was getting ready to do a transmission fluid change.... then is saw the type of tool required to take out the fill and drain plugs. I did some surfing around, and finally modified a 3/8th extension to fit the plugs. But they are frozen stuck! :fs1: I put kroil on them, and they are still stuck. I don't want to strip the plug, so is there any trick to getting them free? This Newbee would be very happy for some help. :oops:

[chastings]

I've found a minute or two with a propane torch on the material surrounding the plug works wonders for breaking it free. And I wouldn't even try to remove the drain plug until you remove the fill plug first.

[comanche1989]

I've found a minute or two with a propane torch on the material surrounding the plug works wonders for breaking it free. And I wouldn't even try to remove the drain plug until you remove the fill plug first.

 

 

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck?

[chastings]

I've found a minute or two with a propane torch on the material surrounding the plug works wonders for breaking it free. And I wouldn't even try to remove the drain plug until you remove the fill plug first.

 

 

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck?

You sure can. Sometimes I've even had to alternate with heat and pb blaster too while using my large breaker bar. I haven't messed with the one in my jeep in a while, but the plug and case are dissimilar metals and subject to corrosion. Plus, the last time it was serviced was probably a budget oil change shop that did chin-ups on the wrench before taking it off the lift. Good luck. My best suggestion though, is to make sure you remove the fill plug first. If you drain it and find out the fill plug is "really" seized you'll have to get creative.... I've had to add oil in different gearcases before through the vent or even the speedo hole.

[comanche1989]

Thanks for all the info! i'll have to make another of my homemade 5/16th inch extensions, since i broke my last one off while i was trying to get the plug off. :fs1: But oh well, I'll take out my frustrations on my neighbors Honda Civic. :D

 

Thanks again!

[glundblad]

I bought a piece of steel (tork key of some kind) at the local hardware store in the nuts & bolts section. It fit very snug and fit perfectly. I sprayed it with bpblaster for a few days and it came right off. Long live the BA10 :cheers:

[Eagle]

I've found a minute or two with a propane torch on the material surrounding the plug works wonders for breaking it free. And I wouldn't even try to remove the drain plug until you remove the fill plug first.

 

 

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck?

I wouldn't. The BA 10/5 case is aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point.

 

Keep soaking the plug with Kroil. Then take a small ball pein hammer and tap the face of the plug a few times. Don't hit it too hard -- you aren't trying to smash it out of the case, just tap enough to (maybe) loosen up whatever corrosion has formed. Once you get the plug out, put teflon tape or anti-seize on the threads.

[comanche1989]

I've found a minute or two with a propane torch on the material surrounding the plug works wonders for breaking it free. And I wouldn't even try to remove the drain plug until you remove the fill plug first.

 

 

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck?

I wouldn't. The BA 10/5 case is aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point.

 

Keep soaking the plug with Kroil. Then take a small ball pein hammer and tap the face of the plug a few times. Don't hit it too hard -- you aren't trying to smash it out of the case, just tap enough to (maybe) loosen up whatever corrosion has formed. Once you get the plug out, put teflon tape or anti-seize on the threads.

 

Alright, thanks. Heating is always my last resort, but I'm starting to get desperate. :wall: Teflon tape won't be negatively affected by the heat of the transmission? And should i keep the original plugs, or replace them with some generic bolt head plug?

[Eagle]

And should i keep the original plugs, or replace them with some generic bolt head plug?

I believe it's a tapered pipe thread, and metric. Good luck finding anything to match.

[Manche twenty 11]

I had to take a hammer and chisel to mine. Worked out good. Someone before had obliterated the square hole for a ratchet.

[tbrand]

Another option (the way I did it, thanks to jpnjim's or someone's suggestion) is to pull the shifter and fill through that hole. Yeah, it's a pain, but it's better than trying to get at two stubborn plugs in the transmission. According to the interwebs, the 2wd Peugeot takes 5.2 pints (2.6 quarts) of oil, while the 4wd takes 4.9 pints (2.45 quarts). Buy 3 quarts and you'll be fine.

 

EDIT: Just found this link while poking around.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how-ba-10-5-tranny-fluid-change-write-up-652142/

[comanche1989]

Another option (the way I did it, thanks to jpnjim's or someone's suggestion) is to pull the shifter and fill through that hole. Yeah, it's a pain, but it's better than trying to get at two stubborn plugs in the transmission. According to the interwebs, the 2wd Peugeot takes 5.2 pints (2.6 quarts) of oil, while the 4wd takes 4.9 pints (2.45 quarts). Buy 3 quarts and you'll be fine.

 

EDIT: Just found this link while poking around.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how-ba-10-5-tranny-fluid-change-write-up-652142/

 

 

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall:

[Abyx]

Another option (the way I did it, thanks to jpnjim's or someone's suggestion) is to pull the shifter and fill through that hole. Yeah, it's a pain, but it's better than trying to get at two stubborn plugs in the transmission. According to the interwebs, the 2wd Peugeot takes 5.2 pints (2.6 quarts) of oil, while the 4wd takes 4.9 pints (2.45 quarts). Buy 3 quarts and you'll be fine.

 

EDIT: Just found this link while poking around.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how-ba-10-5-tranny-fluid-change-write-up-652142/

 

 

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall:

 

It's really not as hard as you'd think; remove the center console, remove the floorpan boot; take a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench, zip off the 3 bolts holding the shifter plate on...make sure it's in neutral, pull up and you're golden.

 

Just be careful not to overfill. :thumbsup:

 

Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have.

[comanche1989]

Another option (the way I did it, thanks to jpnjim's or someone's suggestion) is to pull the shifter and fill through that hole. Yeah, it's a pain, but it's better than trying to get at two stubborn plugs in the transmission. According to the interwebs, the 2wd Peugeot takes 5.2 pints (2.6 quarts) of oil, while the 4wd takes 4.9 pints (2.45 quarts). Buy 3 quarts and you'll be fine.

 

EDIT: Just found this link while poking around.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how-ba-10-5-tranny-fluid-change-write-up-652142/

 

 

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall:

 

It's really not as hard as you'd think; remove the center console, remove the floorpan boot; take a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench, zip off the 3 bolts holding the shifter plate on...make sure it's in neutral, pull up and you're golden.

 

Just be careful not to overfill. :thumbsup:

 

Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have.

 

So assembly is just the same process reversed?

[Abyx]

So assembly is just the same process reversed?

 

Yes sir; just make sure the transmission is in neutral otherwise you're gonna have fun fishing for gears. It's not too hard to do; but only because I've done it so many times. I remember the first time trying to find 1st gear took me awhile. It's fairly simple once you pull it apart..basically just a ball joint with a sleeve and a finger on the bottom of the ball joint; then the collar that holds everything together and presumably seals it(there are no gaskets involved which is questionable).

[ParadiseMJ]

OK, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong here, but if you remove the back-up light sensor, there is a hole. It's about at the same level of the fill plug. When I take mine out, fluid comes out. couldn't you fill it through there??

[comanche1989]

Thanks for the help!

 

OK, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong here, but if you remove the back-up light sensor, there is a hole. It's about at the same level of the fill plug. When I take mine out, fluid comes out. couldn't you fill it through there??

 

i've heard this too, it that a possible way?

[comanche1989]

Thanks for everybodies advice! i managed to get the plugs free, and finally change the oil. :wrench:

[91Pioneer]

Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have.

 

Does anyone have a pic of the contact points that need greasing? I have no reason to take out my shifter, but I did recently change the BA10 fluid with synthetic. It shifts way smoother (going from one gear to another). Just curious if that greasing is necessary as I don't want to take out the shifter out unless it will really make a difference.

[cruiser54]

 

Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have.

 

Does anyone have a pic of the contact points that need greasing? I have no reason to take out my shifter, but I did recently change the BA10 fluid with synthetic. It shifts way smoother (going from one gear to another). Just curious if that greasing is necessary as I don't want to take out the shifter out unless it will really make a difference.

 

You should be fine with just the synthetic in there. 

[reubj]

Here are the replacement plugs I bought. One is for drain the other for fill:

 

M18 X 1.5 thread  O2 sensor bung

M16 X 1.5 thread Drain Sump plug

 

Both available on eBay.

 

Also, fill it with Red Line 75w90 NS fluid. You won't be sorry.