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I found this posted on a different site, but felt it should be reposted the list was created for xj, but most of these items will also work on our MJ. So the rear leaf packs may still create a lift, and anything with the shackles you have to subtract 1/2" from what it lists for lift etc... Original Post

 

also posted here with some additional posts link

 

Suspension & Lift:

1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift

2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift

3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)

4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift

5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)

6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift

7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift

8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs

9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked

10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle

11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too

12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)

13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack

14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ

 

Brakes:

1. WJ brake booster

2. WJ Master Cylinder

3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer

4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)

5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)

6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion

7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm

8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer

9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer

10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle

 

Axles:

1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)

2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos

3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)

4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package

5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder

6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts

7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in

8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function)

edit: 9: KJ Liberty rear axle. couple inches wider than stock MJ/XJ and can be found with disks and 3.55/3.73/4.10 gears

 

Front End & Steering:

1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in

2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering

3. Durango Steering Box = beefier

4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)

5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)

6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock

7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required

8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)

9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar

10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer

 

Engine/Transmission/T-case:

1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)

2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)

3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A

4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)

5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A

6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response

7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)

8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)

 

9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance BS I had both side by side no difference!!!

 

10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds

11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.

12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)

 

 

Body/Interior/Armor:

1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.

2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in

3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+

4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification

5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors

6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.

7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!

8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+

9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's)

10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's

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The only things that wouldn't cross over would be the shackles or leaf spring bastard packs, but the bastard packs would still raise the truck. depending on what springs were used.

 

I will edit it to state that it's for xj... etc.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Suspension & Lift:

1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift

2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift

3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)

4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift

5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)

6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift

7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift

8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs

9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked

10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle

11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too

12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)

13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack

14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ

 

Brakes:

1. WJ brake booster

2. WJ Master Cylinder

3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer

4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts)

5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)

6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion

7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm

8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer

9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer

10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle

 

Axles:

1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)

2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos

3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)

4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package

5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder

6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts

7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in

8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function)

 

Front End & Steering:

1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in

2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering

3. Durango Steering Box = beefier

4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding)

5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)

6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock

7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required

8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)

9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar

10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer

 

Engine/Transmission/T-case:

1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)

2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)

3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A

4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)

5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A

6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response

7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing)

8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)

 

9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance BS I had both side by side no difference!!!

 

10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds

11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.

12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)

 

 

Body/Interior/Armor:

1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.

2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in

3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+

4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification

5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors

6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.

7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders!

8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+

9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's)

10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's

 

 

Those highlighted in RED are mostly XJ only upgrades. Some options could be used for upgrading MJ's but would have to be checked out before commiting to them.

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  • 3 months later...
What about this one: 5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors?

 

The one thing I hate about the MJ are the side mirrors. Will this work on our MJ's?

 

 

Be sure to get the hinge too. No personal experience with this swap, but IIRC the hinge is different too.

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  • 3 weeks later...
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift

and

10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle

 

Will net an inch (or so) of lift on an MJ?

 

Non-UC V8 coils will net 1-1.5" on a 4.0L MJ, maybe 2" on a 2.5L MJ. UC V8 Coils will offer an inch more than Non-UC coils.

 

ZJs with the UC package can be identified by the the tow hook package front and rear, a sticker in the rear drivers quarter window (often missing), sachs shocks (black 96'-98', blue 93'-95', mounted upside down with boots), and the complete skid plate package (front, TC, gas tank). All Orvis ZJs came with the UC package. It was special order on all other ZJs, but was not available on the 5.9L ZJs.

 

When looking at the front coils, often the factory sticker with the part number is still there, it may be dirty but clean it off and confirm the part number. You're looking for p/n 52088363 for front V8 coils. Also, the rear coils for the Up Country package are the same for the V8 or 4.0 I6.

 

http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/techarticl ... grade.html

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  • 1 month later...

5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)

7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required

 

I'm wanting to do a 2 inch ish lift....would one of these be good to do...ive heard from diferent sorces that a small lift u don't need to replace/mod lca...but i don't wanna take risks...I'm so confused!

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5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)

7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required

 

I'm wanting to do a 2 inch ish lift....would one of these be good to do...ive heard from diferent sorces that a small lift u don't need to replace/mod lca...but i don't wanna take risks...I'm so confused!

 

if only doing a 2" lift I'd suggest the WJ LCA's and grind them to fit. That way you can stay with stock wheels and put larger rubber on them with out rubbing. At 2" there should be enough adjustment at your frame connection to correct your caster. There is a reference chart in the diy forums "lift height vs control arm length" that gives you a ball park on how long each arm needs to be. If you already have aftermarket wheels with a negative offset (https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html)

the wj control arms may not be worth the hassle. With a 2" lift, I'd say 31" tires with out trimming.

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if only doing a 2" lift I'd suggest the WJ LCA's and grind them to fit. That way you can stay with stock wheels and put larger rubber on them with out rubbing. At 2" there should be enough adjustment at your frame connection to correct your caster. There is a reference chart in the diy forums "lift height vs control arm length" that gives you a ball park on how long each arm needs to be. If you already have aftermarket wheels with a negative offset (https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html)

the wj control arms may not be worth the hassle. With a 2" lift, I'd say 31" tires with out trimming.

Thanks dude i now know what I'm going to do!!!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thought maybe adding parts numbers for e-brake lines and brake hoses that are common would be helpful as it seems to be a very often asked ??

 

 

For front brake hoses that are 4" longer, rubber but longer at $13 each new.

Left side: napa part 38182 according to cross reference it fits 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton chevy vans.

Right side: napa part 38183 cross reference to: 86-94 gmc 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton chevy van

 

 

For e-brake cables that are 10" longer for both housing and cable:

 

Dorman Part c93113 shows it fits a Jeep cj5 81-83, cj7 81-86, scrambler 81-85

http://comancheclub....g-brake-cables/

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