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write up on 2.5L valve cover plastic to metal swap?


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Hey folks,

I also posed this question in the DIY section, but figured more people see it here. I am about to swap my 1990 plastic valve cover for a 94 wrangler aluminum cover. I searched for a DIY write up to no avail. I have a new gasket on order (takes a different gasket, the cover has nubs on the bottom to alleviate crushing the gasket), and I'm going to get new bolts. (shoulder bolts don't fit) I'm aware I have to re-route the "breather" stuff on the top of the valve cover. Any other pointers/tips would be appreciated. I'll try to post in the DIY section when I switch the cover out (waiting on new gasket)

-Erin (tired of chasing the leak)

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Bignuke....Did your metal cover have the little "nibs" on the gasket surface to keep from crushing the gasket? When the cover is tightened down should those touch the head? I have not seen the gasket yet, so I do not know how thick it is....? I just do not want to overtighten the bolts, and be in the same boat I am now. (or worse)

-E.

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Thanks Folks for all the help here. I did not have an appropriate torque wrench, so I used the good and tight method, using the head bolt sequence. I posted a DIY on this with some good photos of the breather re-route, and the size hoses/bolts I used. I simply "tacked" the gasket in the corners. So far, so good. I ran in up to operating temp, and watched for leaks the whole time. No leaks! I assume keep an eye on it for a while.

-E.

 

p.s.- The gasket choices were pretty slim. I ended up using a felpro "rubber" gasket which is actually rubber coated cork. The only other choice was cork only. :hmm:

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  • 1 year later...
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I just competed swap. Used a 2001 Jeep Wrangler VC. Used Fel-pro gasket perma-dry VS50502R. Worked great, added 1/4-20 1" long stainless Allen head bolts and stainless washers, complements paint work.

(I'd add pics, but I don't know how, some help please)

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