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Posted

If you can find a D44 out of a Comanche, it will bolt in. A Cherokee axle will require new spring perches to be welded on, as the Cherokee is Spring-over-axle and the Comanche is Spring-under axle.

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Posted
So the ONLY direct bolt in is from a comanche. Besides the ds and u bolts?

 

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts. Also keep in mind you can use an AMC20 rear axle from an 86 MJ, also a bolt-in. I found plenty of those in my AO but none in the ration I wanted.

Posted
So the ONLY direct bolt in is from a comanche. Besides the ds and u bolts?

 

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts.

 

 

This is absolutely false. NEVER re-use U-bolts. They cost a couple bucks, and its a safety issue.

 

The experts:

 

U-Bolts provide the clamping force needed to hold the springs to the axle. Whenever springs are replaced or repaired, the u-bolts should be replaced. The threads on most u-bolts are not cut, they are rolled.

 

When the U-bolts are tightened, the threads are deformed by the nuts.

 

Obtaining the proper torque (clamping force) can never be achieved when reusing old u-bolts.

 

The weakest part of any spring leaf is at the hole where the center bolt goes through the leaves.

 

Correctly torqued U-bolts make the center section of the spring immobile.

 

Any, repeat, any, movement in the area of the center bolt will cause the spring to break in this area.

 

Never use lock washers because they can break. Also never use soft metal washers on U-bolts because they will deform under torque. Both cases will cause the nuts to loosen and will cause the spring to fail from breakage within the u-bolt area.

 

Always use hardened washers or flange nuts.

 

Reusing old u-bolts is penny wise and pound foolish. (this means you are cheap)

 

Torque specs shown are only recommendations. You should always follow your vehicle's manufacturer's recommendations.

 

Rod Diameter 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" 9/16" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1" 1 1/8" 1 1/4"

Torque in ft-lbs 30 45 65 90 125 300 480 730 1,300 1,740

 

Always re-torque the newly installed u-bolts after 50 miles of driving.

 

Then recheck after another 50 miles.

 

Then again after 500 miles.

 

Finally, recheck the u-bolt torque every time you are under the vehicle.

 

Remember - Tight u-bolts will extend a spring's life.

 

http://www.eatonsprings.com/tipinsertsr ... bolts.html

Posted

so what junk yards are you going to? i'll probably be at harrys tomorrow morning so i could look to see what they have and let you know if you want that way you don't waste a trip. they are also open on sunday so you could just go then. i can guarentee they have alot of xj axles but you'd have to weld on new perches. as far as the ds goes, i got mine shortened at a local 4x4 shop. it needs to be shortened 1".

 

ok i guess I'm going scouting at all the local pick n pulls tomorrow.

please tell me which truck and year i can get the 44 off of thats an bolt in except for the shaft and u bolts.

 

 

man i owe you guys

 

paul

Posted
So the ONLY direct bolt in is from a comanche. Besides the ds and u bolts?

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts.

 

This is absolutely false. NEVER re-use U-bolts. They cost a couple bucks, and its a safety issue.

 

Lighten up man. Jeesh. I reused mine as I did not have new ones when I put the new axle axle in and they were only six months old. Got a new 9/16" set from Hell Creek and installed shortly after. I'm saying only you CAN reuse the D35 if you have to in a pinch, as they will fit the D44. And no, I don't recommend it.

Posted
so what junk yards are you going to? i'll probably be at harrys tomorrow morning so i could look to see what they have and let you know if you want that way you don't waste a trip. they are also open on sunday so you could just go then. i can guarentee they have alot of xj axles but you'd have to weld on new perches. as far as the ds goes, i got mine shortened at a local 4x4 shop. it needs to be shortened 1".

 

ok i guess I'm going scouting at all the local pick n pulls tomorrow.

please tell me which truck and year i can get the 44 off of thats an bolt in except for the shaft and u bolts.

 

 

man i owe you guys

 

paul

 

 

Ya just pm me that wohld rule cuz harrys is far. Can u check the one manches if u see it.

Thanks

Paul

Posted
so what junk yards are you going to? i'll probably be at harrys tomorrow morning so i could look to see what they have and let you know if you want that way you don't waste a trip. they are also open on sunday so you could just go then. i can guarentee they have alot of xj axles but you'd have to weld on new perches. as far as the ds goes, i got mine shortened at a local 4x4 shop. it needs to be shortened 1".

 

ok i guess I'm going scouting at all the local pick n pulls tomorrow.

please tell me which truck and year i can get the 44 off of thats an bolt in except for the shaft and u bolts.

 

 

man i owe you guys

 

paul

 

 

Ya just pm me that wohld rule cuz harrys is far. Can u check the one manches if u see it.

Thanks

Paul

 

i'll let ya know what i see there

Posted

Sorry, I'm compelled to chime in on the U-bolt re-use topic. While I have to agree that always replacing them

is a safe practice, that does not mean that re-use is inherently unsafe provided certain things are met:

 

1) Most important. You need to be certain the U-bolts are of good material AND they have never been

overtorqued (which would take the material past yield point).

 

2) The nuts are the same thread type as the bolts. Just because the bolt threads are rolled (UNJ) doesn't

mean that correct nuts with correct torque will ruin them. What happens is that the entire length

stretches creating preload, the clamping force for the joint. Fasteners are most efficient when the preload

approaches 80%-90% of material yield BUT you better be able to know where that point is, and be

able to torque to that point and no farther. In this range the bolt remains elastic and can be reused

without concern. We have ran this test many times on many fastener types.

 

3) Do not use thread lubicant unless you understand (by test) the results. It can take preload too high. Just

have dry clean threads.

 

4) All bolted joints settle out over time. Re-check them periodically. If applied load exceeds preload

cyclically (like a bumpy road with U-bolts not tight enough) fatigue life goes to hell in a hurry due

to joint gapping.

 

New bolts every time is cheap insurance, but I have no qualms about subsequent retorque of U-bolts

that I installed new, and then reinstalled myself at a later point.

Posted

Good info Tom. I've always used jam nuts on new axle u-bolts after torquing to prevent any possible hi-nut loosening. Recommend?

Posted

i got this from craigslist today...

 

any good?

 

he will seperate them and hes throwing in the drive shaft for free. he said its hub to hub

 

Hi I have a set of axles from a 1994 Jeep cherokee. The front is a dana 35 and the rear is a 8-1/4 chrysler. Both have 3:55 gears. I am asking $100 for each. If you are interested email a contact nunber and time to call.

Thanks

Posted

Price sounds good and its better than a 35. I would most likely get it buy some perches from the dealer there not much I don't think, not sure what you may need for a shaft?

Posted

Might also want to go meet him if hes seems to know his stuff maybe hit him up for a install or even help with install????

Posted

It won't fit from an XJ rear. Honestly, your 35 lasted a good while. Just get the parts to redo the gears. You could always break a shaft if you get on it hard with your bigger tires but that is also replaceable. Your 92 is a street vehicle that you keep clean so a Dana 35 is just fine for your usage. Go ahead and get a ring and pinion with install kit. Make sure you don't need spider or side gears too. If you do then just get a nice posi unit like a powerlock. You're looking at around $600 with parts to repair the axle but only a couple hundred to find another 35. You should repair it because you can't do the swap yourself. My 35 needed bearings so I just replaced it with a 44 but I knew how to get driveshafts redone and so forth. You should repair the 35 and be happy with the truck again.

Posted

The 8.25 will fit, kinda.

 

It is the same width and the brakes are plug and play. The perches and shock mounts need to be cut off (easy to do with an angle grinder) and new perches welded on.

 

I believe your u bolt plates can handle a 3" axle, but will have to check to say for sure.

 

The nose of an 8.25" is an inch longer than a D35, so your driveshaft *may* need to be shortened a bit.

Posted

The u bolt plates will accept the 8.25 axle (swapped one under my '86 to replace the 35). I can't really comment on the drive shaft issue, though. I did the Chevy 350, AX15, NP231 and Chrysler 8.25 swap all at once and my drive shaft ended up being 2" too long (needed to be cut down 4" if you wanted it to fit correct, I just stretched my wheel base slightly to compensate instead since I had everything off).

Posted

jeep is still not going.

everything fell through i had lined up

 

need a ring & pinion 3.55 ratio....dana 35c

 

someone got one laying around they can mail me?

 

i can paypal or western union

 

thanks

 

paul

Posted

If i found a commanche with a d35 plate on the front axle. Does that mean its usually a 44 in the rear or no. I can't rip off the cover to countt teeth. Just hopin i get lucky

 

Oh ya. can't you just look up the rear from the vin #?

 

Thanks

Paul

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