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dana 35 swap out


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ok ive found out its my rear thats bad in my 92. i got it at a garage and their letting me get the axel and installing it for me.

 

they took off the diff cover and 3 teeth fell out.

i found a pick n pull that will sell me one (a dana 35) for $50 complete...pretty cheap huh?

i am going to the pick n pull tomorrow to get it.

 

is there anything i need to know pulling it?

besides the obvious...leaf u bolts, shock bolts, drive shaft (at the universal)

 

I'm going to bring my dewalt sawzall with metal blades and try to cut the universal and the u bolts on the leafs. or ill just use a socket if there not rusted shut.

the shock bolts I'm gonna rough them out

 

i know i should be throwing in a dana 44, but i can't get one anytime soon and the mechanic said things might not fit right.

 

any imput or help guys? or do i got it covered?

 

I'm going in the morning

 

thanks

 

paul

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Surly you can remove four bolts, 8mm, in the time it would take to sawz it. If the nuts on the UBolts are so rusted you can't break them loose them cut the UBolts. Cut them where they bend.As for cutting the springs, if they're rusted in that bad then that's the way to go.I've found that many a time I can use a breaker bar and twist the head, or nut, off a bolt faster than any other way.

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Got ya. Make sure that the pinion angle is right if you need to re do perches :ack: Oh and is it 4x2 or 4x4? If 4x2 you could use this as a good time to upgrade your gearing :D

 

Brandon

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1) support the body with jack stands. Support the axle with jacks at each end, and as close to free-height as possible.

2) air tools are your friend. Use a breaker (jack handle, etc) to break the u bolt nuts free then air wrench them of. Or just cut and throw away the u bolts.

3) 8mm for the pinnion yoke straps. Put t-case in neutral (make sure wheels are chocked) and spin the shaft for best access to all bolts. Tape the joint with electrical tape as soon as you pull it, and don't lose a cap.

4) Undue all brake lines.

5) using the jacks, roll it out.

 

6) Install an MJ rear. With an XJ rear you may have trouble with e-brake mounting and will need to weld new perches. If you are going to have to weld new perches, go with something better than a 35.

7) make sure the brakes are bled REALLY good.

8) always use new ubolts. They are cheap.

9) use jacks under both ends to locate the axle under the springs, jack up to free height to settle the spring pin in the hole.

 

Should be straightforward. There's not a lot to it.

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The reason they mentioned 90-92 is because of the brake generation. In 90 they went to the 2.25 x 9 inch brakes, from the 1.75 x 10 inch ones.

 

You can put an older axle on just fine, you just need to bleed brakes. Remember, they're just a monkey reading from a book, they probably know nothing about Jeep axles.

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You'd need a slightly shorter rear driveshaft. Pretty much it. Obviously you'd need the D44 U-bolts, but those should be replaced with any axle swap, so not a big deal. Brakes will need to be bled, but that's also happening anyway.

 

Why aren't you installing it?

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I'm not installing it because i don't trust myself to do that big of a project yet...I'm still sort of a noob :yes:

besides, i gotta find one first...

where do i get a shorter drive shaft and how do i know what size i need....for the 44?

 

ill be happy with a 35 in there, but i still can't do it. :shake: whichever comes to me first, ill get put in

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ok just got off the phone with the mechanic

 

if i can't find a whole axle for him to install for $350.00..

 

i can order a ring and pinion gear, and a bearing / shim kit, which he will install for $400.00..

 

happily install it ....lol...mechanics

 

so my next question is do i order these parts and where from, or do i search for a d 35.

 

i explained to him what consists of the d 35 to d44 swap and he won't even do it for me..soooooooo

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You need to find yourself a local 4x4 club and offer free beer to anyone willing to come and help. A team of monkeys can do the swap in a handfull of hours.

 

Worst case, shop around for a new "mechanic". That's absurd. Also, check with all the local 4x4 shops for their rates. Expect a minimal parts bill, and $75-100/hr for shop time. It really is an easy swap.

 

Also, rear axles in PA:

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=29860

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30192

 

 

 

Again, to do yourself:

-Place wheel chucks on front wheels.

-Jack up the rear, put jack stands under the frame rails.

-Take off rear tires

-Put jack under rear axle. Lift so axle is being lightly supported at full droop.

-Put coffee cans under brakes, open brake bleeders and allow fluid to drain.

-Un-do brake hard lines when fluid is done draining.

-Disconnect e-brake cable

-Disconnect Yoke straps at pinnion. 8mm.

-Tape driveshaft U-joint with electrical tape once straps are removed. Either strap/bungee shaft up and out of the way, or place catch pan under t-case and pull the shaft completely.

-Un-do u-bolt nuts (4 per side) or use sawzall/grinder to cut the u-bolt.

-slightly lower the jack, and pull the axle.

 

Install is opposite of removal.

-position and lift using a jack, line pads up to leafs, and position spring pin inside mounting hole.

-Add new u-bolts.

-Reconnect brake lines.

-bleed brakes

-reconnect driveshaft.

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This is a vehicle specific advice forum. While lots of guys here know their stuff, it's national, so coming over to your place and helping out in return for some suds is usually not feasible.

 

Local 4x4 clubs? Let me Google that for you. :cheers:

 

http://tinyurl.com/5wzfchn

:rotf:

smart ars!

theres still none by me....bloomsburg is the closest one.....far

 

anyways were off the topic here

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i just did a d44 swap not to long ago. the only thing i changed was shortening the rear drive shaft 1" and new larger u-bolts. what gear ratio do you have? if it helps i still have my comanche d35 that i took out. it needs a new pinion bearing and seal but afaik the gears and everything else was good. it is a 3.54 ratio.

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