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I've worked on some gas engine garbage trucks with Propane carb hats added to the top of the throttle body. They just turn off the power to the injectors and turn on the propane solenoid. I think they also have an auxillary ignition control box to change the timing curve on propane. I never liked the stinky stuff

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I've worked on some gas engine garbage trucks with Propane carb hats added to the top of the throttle body. They just turn off the power to the injectors and turn on the propane solenoid. I think they also have an auxillary ignition control box to change the timing curve on propane. I never liked the stinky stuff

I worked for a propane company and our trucks were set up for it (propane carb) and we had lots of problems with them.. winter they were a pain in the @$$ to start and fuel efficient they are not. Propane is not cheap unless you work for a gas company. The benifit is that a propane operated engine runs very clean. We ran 10 K on a oil change and it was hardly discolored at 10k.

When they wanted to be cantankerous most shops did not want to work on them .

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My father in law and my granddad ran all their drilling equipment and personal vehicles on propane. When I had my highway escort service I ran 5 trucks on propane racking up over 1 million miles on them. It was great going 15k-20k between oil changes. When it became necessary to rebuild one it seemed like you could wipe out all the soot, not carbon, with a kleenex. So I am a strong proponent of the stuff. It was all carburated and not injected. Think I've just talked myself into changing a MJ over and see how it does. comanche.gif

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:hijack: does propane effect on performance too? i rather to have plenty power from 4.0l while still on gas but propane? :dunno:

 

its remind me about E85. E85 with high boost(turbocharger)= :eek: :drool:

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Propane has a higher octane rating but lower BTU than gas. The one thing that hurt propane performance the most was that people just added the conversion kit but didn't change the engine to take advantage of it.

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Propane has a higher octane rating but lower BTU than gas. The one thing that hurt propane performance the most was that people just added the conversion kit but didn't change the engine to take advantage of it.

ah make senses. thank you for infos. :cheers: anyway back to point with propane...

 

let me know if someone gonna conversion it on MJ, I'm curious how its result.. :popcorn:

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I think that if you really want to go propane, you should switch your engine to a 258 (4.2) carbed Jeep engine, or maybe even just swap heads and intake from a 258, and then add a propane carb setup. Ive heard of people converting the 258 to Fuel injection with 4.0 parts, but I'm not sure how well it would work the other way around. Youd need to swap ignition systems too as there will no longer be an engine controller to do that if you do this swap. Though I'm not sure youd get any better performance out of it. Seems like a lot to do just for the few benefits of propane.

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I think that if you really want to go propane, you should switch your engine to a 258 (4.2) carbed Jeep engine, or maybe even just swap heads and intake from a 258, and then add a propane carb setup. Ive heard of people converting the 258 to Fuel injection with 4.0 parts, but I'm not sure how well it would work the other way around. Youd need to swap ignition systems too as there will no longer be an engine controller to do that if you do this swap. Though I'm not sure youd get any better performance out of it. Seems like a lot to do just for the few benefits of propane.

Sometimes you don't need a reason to do something. You do it just for the heck of it.

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I think that if you really want to go propane, you should switch your engine to a 258 (4.2) carbed Jeep engine, or maybe even just swap heads and intake from a 258, and then add a propane carb setup. Ive heard of people converting the 258 to Fuel injection with 4.0 parts, but I'm not sure how well it would work the other way around. Youd need to swap ignition systems too as there will no longer be an engine controller to do that if you do this swap. Though I'm not sure youd get any better performance out of it. Seems like a lot to do just for the few benefits of propane.

 

 

A friend of mine had a ridiculous fuel infection issue that stumped several mechanics, myself and him. He said screw it, grabbed an intake off a 4.2L that he had laying around, slapped it on and bam. It ran. Not quite as simple as I made it sound, but it can be done.

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I think that if you really want to go propane, you should switch your engine to a 258 (4.2) carbed Jeep engine, or maybe even just swap heads and intake from a 258, and then add a propane carb setup. Ive heard of people converting the 258 to Fuel injection with 4.0 parts, but I'm not sure how well it would work the other way around. Youd need to swap ignition systems too as there will no longer be an engine controller to do that if you do this swap. Though I'm not sure youd get any better performance out of it. Seems like a lot to do just for the few benefits of propane.

 

 

A friend of mine had a ridiculous fuel infection issue that stumped several mechanics, myself and him. He said screw it, grabbed an intake off a 4.2L that he had laying around, slapped it on and bam. It ran. Not quite as simple as I made it sound, but it can be done.

 

Science isn't perfect.

Reminded me of a time when I was in Spain. We were setting up a HF radio relay link on the top floor of some ritzy hotel in Madrid. I was having a problem with the antennas. Couldn't get one to work right. The radio operator was going ape, screaming at me because he had to make contact at 1600 with Ramstein. I'm going crazy checking all my charts, radio frequencies, ant spacing, connections etc, etc, and not getting any where. Finally at 2 minutes to 4 the guy grabs a spool of wire out of my box, fastens one end to the antenna tuner, walks over to the window and throws the spool out the window, gets on the radio and has perfect 5X5 contact. Never did live that one down, or come up with a explanation for what happened. :rotfl2: :dunno:

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gotpropane.com has a kit for $850, but you have to buy your own tanks on top of that (~$140 for a new tank).

 

 

"We have the answer to carbureted engine problems! These kits are designed to fit 4 and 6 cyl 1 and 2 barrel applications. They are very simple and bolt on and tune very easily. Your engine will never stumble again because of fuel problems. These kits will run better than fuel injection. When was the last time you've seen a carbureted Jeep run right on a steep angle? This kit will surprise you! You will not lose any power, in fact, we almost always get a report back about power gains!

Price: Sale price-$850 with tank bracket set.

 

 

 

4.0 and 2.5 KITS!!! EFI

We now have a it to run the 4.0 and 2.5 motor on propane. They are designed to run strictly on propane. You no longer need the wiring harness or sensors. You will need to put a distrubutor in from an earlier carbed motor to eliminate the computer. Easily retrofit that older Jeep now without the worries of wiring,fuel pumps,etc. This is designed to re use your stock intake manifold. If you are using an automatic transmission you will need a stand alone transmission controller. We recommend www.radesignsproducts.com for this. These are not approved for emissions controlled vehicles.

Price: Sale price-$850

 

Note: does not include tank.

 

On the 258 jeeps and Toyota motors,we have seen a noticeable power increase!

Jeep 258 mileage seems to be around 13mpg. That is with full width axles and lifted.

If you buy Propane as a motor fuel the taxes and price is usually much lower than regular unleaded at the gas station. Right now we are paying about $1.70 a gallon.

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Basically you need a LPG mixer,regulator,lock off and some hoses.

 

Just off the top of my head

If I was going to convert a 4.0l I would find a points style distributor that fits and put a pertronix in it.

Then I would get an Impco 250 mixer,model j regulator,and a VFF30 or an electric lock off. then just adapt the mixer were the TB goes and plum everything in.

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You need a tank. Usually mounted in the bed of P/U or under the bed of bigger trucks. In the trunk of cars, although I did see one case where the guy removed the rear seat and put it there. Hose connecting the tank to the regulator, vaporizer, mixer under the hood. Adapter to fit the carburator or air intake to the intake manifold. A valve to shut the LPG off and on, usually built into the regulator but can be separate. For cold climates, and it helps vaporize the gas in warm climates, hook the regulator in series with the heater hose. When you turn the ign key to on, and start, it activates the solenoid turning the gas on. There is also a connector for a vacuum line. This is a safety feature so if the engine isn't running it turns the gas of. Is also used as a signal to regulate the flow of gas. There is also a switch to turn the regular gas feed on and off. There are set ups where these two switches are combined. Each state is different on their laws so you have to check your state. Since there is no road tax on LPG you need to buy a road use sticker. With this sticker you can pull into any propane sta and fill up. I never worried about that as I had a big tank in the yard and filled up from it.

A Rant

Propane is a clean burning fuel leaving only soot when it burns and 20-25% less emissions than gas or diesel. A properly installed set up will pass every emission law on the books. Yet instead of encouraging the use of LPG, big brother deliberately penalizes

those that use it with laws and regulations. Maybe why the big oil companys are their major contributers?

Also agree with Mnkyboy on the dist.

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Pretty much all regulators/vaporizors now days come ready to plum in water,I usually pull water off the back of the head. I always run water as it keeps the regulator from freezing which causes a lean condition and eventually will cut fuel flow. Keeping it warm also helps keep down mercaptane/tar build up in the system,you can also buy a thermostat that goes in line to warm the regulator faster and hold a specific temperature but its usually not required.

 

I have converted air cooled engines but regulator placement gets tricky.

 

The valve that cuts fuel is the lock off,the one with the hose is a vacuum lock off,Impco VFF30 is the most common. Apply vacuum and it turns on,take it away and it turns off.

 

You can also run an electric lock off that gets power off the key switch,these are also usually ran through an oil pressure switch as a saftey. For added safety some systems use both vacuum and electric in series.

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