SouthShore440 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 real easy for those who need to change it. all you have to do is take off the belt, use a puller to remove it and the special installer to get it back on. might as well do the seal while you have it off. service manual said to pull the bumper and fan, but you don't have to there is plenty of room to do it as-is. if you have high mileage or your jeep is old, i would check your balancer. the rubber isolator on mine was rock solid and it actually separated the out shell from the inner hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 it looks like this when it's on it's way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 might as well do the seal while you have it off. Beg to differ. Might as well do the timing chain while you have the timing cover off also. Don't think it is a good idea banging on the timing cover to replace the seal without being supported from behind. Others might disagree, but to me makes perfect sense. I wouldn't touch the seal unless it was actively leaking. Don't fix it if it aint broke. How many times we heard that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 mine didn't leak until i changed the balancer.had to do the job again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Seal is press fit and if you do it right you don't even touch the cover when you install it. Plus seals wear out so this is worth the effort to replace while is all apart. If the truck makes it to 200k ill do the chain....right now it just needs to make it to the train station Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Pp it looks like this when it's on it's way Agreed, except I wish I got to it when it looked like that...in my case the center hub was free from the rubber ring and the outer part was moving back and forth about a quarter of an inch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 what are some problems that develop when the balancer is going out? cracking, breaking etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 dakalwhat are some problems that develop when the balancer is going out? cracking, breaking etc. SouthShore440if you have high mileage or your jeep is old, i would check your balancer. the rubber isolator on mine was rock solid and it actually separated the out shell from the inner hub. :smart: this will cause the outer shell of the pulley to get closer & closer to the timing cover! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Or in my case go forward and hit the fan making an awesome clanging noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Good timing (pun intended) on this, I just replaced my fan clutch and noticed my balancer wobbling all over the place. What did you end up buying as a replacement, are there any "upgrades" like "fludamper" style balancers, or is OEM good enough (seems like it would be for a low rev application)? What was the puller you used, and the special install tool? Should I get the "repair sleeve" (NATIONAL Part # 88179 on RockAuto)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 does it change the timing? anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kro10000 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Really need to change mine, about 1/4 of the rubber is missing... :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmJay Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 It isn't necessary to remove the timing cover to replace the balancer or the seal. New harmonic balancers are available at NAPA and probably other parts stores. When you remove the balancer the bolt has 80fp of torque. If you have an automatic you may need to wedge a screwdriver through one of the spokes of the balancer to keep the engine from spinning. A 2" water pipe reducer fitting and the original bolt and washer from the harmonic balancer make an inexpensive installer for the bearing. you can also use a longer bolt available at any hardware to start the balancer onto the crankshaft until you can use the original bolt. You will need a puller to remove the balancer. Most parts stores will rent the puller when you buy the balancer. I found I can change the balancer and seal without removing the radiator. The serpentine belt tensioner ia by the power steering pump and you may need to remove the airbox to get to the bolt. Mac... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 jeepcoma What did you end up buying as a replacement, are there any "upgrades" like "fludamper" style balancers, or is OEM good enough? What was the puller you used, and the special install tool? I did two balancers, timing cover gaskets, & oil pan gaskets last week end one on my 90 XJ & one on a friends MJ :wrench: I got the balancers from summit racing Dorman 594-018 - Harmonic Balancers, External Balance, Nodular Iron, Natural, Jeep, Inline 6, Part Number: RNB-594-018 * $31.95 http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1992/make/JEEP/model/CHEROKEE/Department/Engines-Components/Part-Type/Harmonic-Balancers Fel-Pro QTCS45117 - Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket, Timing Cover, Cork/Rubber, AMC, International, Jeep, 2.5L L4, 232/4.0L/258 L6, Kit * $16.99 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-TCS45117/ Fel-Pro QOS34308R - Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket, 1-Piece, Rubber, Steel Core, AMC, International, Jeep, Each * $24.25 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-OS34308R/ this is the puller i used http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritas4156 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I gotta figure out which seal is leaking on my truck. I've got a pretty good oil leak from around the timing cover but i can't tell if its oil pan or timing cover seal. Simply because I'm too lazy to look. Any guesstimates on time to pull the timing cover, replace the seal, and put it back together? On a YJ i would say 2 hours but there was soooooo much more room on that. :hijack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Any guesstimates on time to pull the timing cover, replace the seal, and put it back together? On a YJ i would say 2 hours but there was soooooo much more room on that.:hijack: toke me 4 to 6. no lift & no air tools put jeep on jack stands, remove belt, remove alternator, disconnect track bar , disconnect steering @ the pitman arm so you can get as much droop out of the suspension as possible, drain the oil, remove the oil pan, i clamped a pair of vice grips on the crank to break the bolt on the balancer, use a puller & remove the balancer, remove the timing cover, clean the timing cover & oil pan, clean engine block, add RTV & new gaskets & reinstall. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 So if I get a brand new balancer, I don't need the "sleeve seal" thingy (FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve Type: Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve; w/Sleeve 'N' Seal®) , as it's only for repairing the sealing surface if reusing the old balancer? I figure if I'm going to do this, I might as go all the way and do the rear main while I'm at it and the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. They are all combined at the same shipping location from RockAuto so I'll save some bucks on shipping (side rant, I hate the way shipping works at RA, it's always a challenge to figure out which combination of parts to buy to save as much as possible on shipping). Balancer: DORMAN Part # 594018 {#33002920, 83501488} (have read some complaints about this, any benefit to the more expensive units?) FEL-PRO Part # BS40612 {#BS13879} Rear Main Seal Set FEL-PRO Part # OS34308R PermaDry® Oil Pan One-piece FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve (or FEL-PRO Part # TCS45117 w/o sleeve) FEL-PRO Part # VS50022C1 Valve cover gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I figure if I'm going to do this, I might as go all the way and do the rear main while I'm at it and the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. did not say that. sorry, also did rear main on my 90 XJ the MJ had a new rear main swapt in 2 month ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritas4156 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Any guesstimates on time to pull the timing cover, replace the seal, and put it back together? On a YJ i would say 2 hours but there was soooooo much more room on that.:hijack: toke me 4 to 6. no lift & no air tools put jeep on jack stands, remove belt, remove alternator, disconnect track bar , disconnect steering @ the pitman arm so you can get as much droop out of the suspension as possible, drain the oil, remove the oil pan, i clamped a pair of vice grips on the crank to break the bolt on the balancer, use a puller & remove the balancer, remove the timing cover, clean the timing cover & oil pan, clean engine block, add RTV & new gaskets & reinstall. :thumbsup: Sounds like a nice afternoon spending quality time with a 12 pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Any guesstimates on time to pull the timing cover, replace the seal, and put it back together? On a YJ i would say 2 hours but there was soooooo much more room on that.:hijack: toke me 4 to 6. no lift & no air tools put jeep on jack stands, remove belt, remove alternator, disconnect track bar , disconnect steering @ the pitman arm so you can get as much droop out of the suspension as possible, drain the oil, remove the oil pan, i clamped a pair of vice grips on the crank to break the bolt on the balancer, use a puller & remove the balancer, remove the timing cover, clean the timing cover & oil pan, clean engine block, add RTV & new gaskets & reinstall. :thumbsup: Sounds like a nice afternoon spending quality time with a 12 pack. bring a friend lots of :wrench: to go around! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 I went with the dorman balancer from auto zone with tax it was 45 and lifetime warrantee. No issues so far but I was skeptical of the china quality. what have you read? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 No issues so far but I was skeptical of the china quality. what have you read? i use the dorman balancer also with no issues. dose any one use Professional Products balancer? http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=15481 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kro10000 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Finally did mine yesterday, don't see a problem with this one, do you? :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duster1971 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 man if i only had the pics of the one that came off mt xj it came off in 2 peices that rubber ring that is looking bad on the one pictured above was only in 2 places. makes me glad the fuse went out for the alternator and the batery died so i had to trailer it home. not so glad however that i didnt realy need the new alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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