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C-clip/gears


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Ok so every one says that C-clips are bad. So I want to get away from this I have an axle out of a 92 XJ (3.55) and the axle out of my 87 Comanche (3.07)from a post from CW he showed the different type of rear end. One was a D-35 with what I would say is a pop in plug and the other one has the screw in type plug. From that post I gather that the pop in plug axle is a C-clip and the screw in one is a non C-clip is this right?? OK if this thought is right I have both types of axles, can I take my 87 Comanche axle that has 3.07 gears and gut it and put in my 3.55 gears out of the XJ and still run my non C-clip axles. :nuts:

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Have you ever set up gears before? They don't "just bolt in".

 

While Dana 35 C-clip axles are technically concidered worse than Dana 35 non-C-clip axles, the difference won't ever be noticed until you break an axle shaft. My personal feelings are that the Dana 35 SUCKS either way and needs to be replaced with something that is truly better. :D

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Have you ever set up gears before? They don't "just bolt in".

 

While Dana 35 C-clip axles are technically concidered worse than Dana 35 non-C-clip axles, the difference won't ever be noticed until you break an axle shaft. My personal feelings are that the Dana 35 SUCKS either way and needs to be replaced with something that is truly better. :D

 

I agree with that thought but I have both axle and I thought I would build the lesser of the two evil that’s all.

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I agree with that thought but I have both axle and I thought I would build the lesser of the two evil that’s all.

What do you mean by "build"? And what size tires do you ultimately intend to run on this axle? The D35 is fine for street duty and light wheeling with up to 30" or maybe 31" tires, but even for those uses it isn't worth putting a whole lot of money into to "build" it. A lunchbox locker or a limited slip is abaout as far as I would take one for "building" -- beyond that you're probably wasting money, 'cause you're likely to break it and have a bunch of expensive parts that you can only use to polish another turd.

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the main difference is... if you didnt already know...

 

with a c-clip axle the axleshaft is held in at the diff. so if you break the shaft on the trail... you can't drive it unles you have gear oil, and another c-clip style shaft. because the axle isnt held in anymore...

 

with a non-clip axle if you break the axleshaft in the tube somewhere you can pull the broken $#!& out, then put the outer end with the stubs (depending on the location of the break) back into the axle, bolt it in and get off the trail and or home.

 

thats the difference.

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No I don’t no how to set up gears, and I am planning on 33X12.5 and what I might by building it was taking the gears out of one and putting it in the other. Just to get this thing on the road that’s all. My plan is to make it in to a weekend warrior out of it.

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you'll be fine with 33s... my brother ran 33's on a c-clip D35 for a full year and he wheels with alot of skinny. (thats WITH a lunchbox locker too.. not open) so as long as you don't lose traction, bounce, and catch traction real quick... all while spinning tires a whole lot... you should be fine.

 

just gotta remember... thats no D44. you can't beat the living )$*(@#&^ out of it.

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just gotta remember... thats no D44. you can't beat the living )$*(@#&^ out of it.

 

That going to be hard for me to do. I no that it is not a D44 or the Ford 8.8 but then agian I don't have those laying around like I have these 2 that is why I am wanting the of the lesser of the two evil.

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No I don’t no how to set up gears, and I am planning on 33X12.5 and what I might by building it was taking the gears out of one and putting it in the other. Just to get this thing on the road that’s all. My plan is to make it in to a weekend warrior out of it.

 

You can't do it like that. The gears must be "set up" properly. If not they can burn up or break within miles or even less. Gear set-up is one of the very few things I will gladly pay to have a pro do (and it's $150-250 per axle).

 

And I would personally NEVER consider using a Dana 35 for 33s, no matter what other people have thus far gotten away with. Especially when Explorer 8.8s are everywhere in the junkyards.

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No I don’t no how to set up gears, and I am planning on 33X12.5 and what I might by building it was taking the gears out of one and putting it in the other. Just to get this thing on the road that’s all. My plan is to make it in to a weekend warrior out of it.

 

You can't do it like that. The gears must be "set up" properly. If not they can burn up or break within miles or even less. Gear set-up is one of the very few things I will gladly pay to have a pro do (and it's $150-250 per axle).

 

And I would personally NEVER consider using a Dana 35 for 33s, no matter what other people have thus far gotten away with. Especially when Explorer 8.8s are everywhere in the junkyards.

 

hes right honestly... if its to get your MJ on the road for a few weeks or even months thats cool. id run the one with the correct gears. and not worry about it. but also, when you can get a JY 8.8 or even 44 with the right gears and save 150$ on gear setup spend 90$ (if that) for the JY axle. theres no reason to not upgrade.

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the main difference is... if you didnt already know...

 

with a c-clip axle the axleshaft is held in at the diff. so if you break the shaft on the trail... you can't drive it unles you have gear oil, and another c-clip style shaft. because the axle isnt held in anymore...

 

with a non-clip axle if you break the axleshaft in the tube somewhere you can pull the broken $#!+ out, then put the outer end with the stubs (depending on the location of the break) back into the axle, bolt it in and get off the trail and or home.

 

thats the difference.

 

Well thats partly true but if you do brake the C-clip style usally the axle shaft will slide out the tube cause nothing holds it in anymore. In turn all the brake parts and anything else in the way is also destroyed. Just a thought on the c-clip. And I agree in not doing any upgrades to a 35 including a gear swap. I ran 4.10s on mine and still am cause I wasnt waisting my money just to turn around and get a Diff. axle to be put in later. I would just save the trouble and cash and start hunting you will eventually find one you can deal with....Plus with 33s you will prob want to go with 4.10s or If it were me 4.88s so you don't have to worry with it anymore.

 

Cole

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Well thats partly true but if you do brake the C-clip style usally the axle shaft will slide out the tube cause nothing holds it in anymore. In turn all the brake parts and anything else in the way is also destroyed. Just a thought on the c-clip. And I agree in not doing any upgrades to a 35 including a gear swap. I ran 4.10s on mine and still am cause I wasnt waisting my money just to turn around and get a Diff. axle to be put in later. I would just save the trouble and cash and start hunting you will eventually find one you can deal with....Plus with 33s you will prob want to go with 4.10s or If it were me 4.88s so you don't have to worry with it anymore.

I would run whichever axle has the gear ratio that's closer to what you want to run. Don't even think about swapping gears from one to the other, especially if you don't know how to do it. Like Pete said a few posts earlier, this is NOT a "bolt-in" proposition.

 

As to the relative strength, whoever it was who said the only difference is that when you break a non c-clip axle the axle and wheel don't slide out. That's the ONLY difference. In real life terms, it means that MAYBE you can town it a few feet to more level ground so you can make the repair. You are NOT going to drive it with a broken axle shaft even if it doesn't have a c-clip, and you are NOT going to tow it 5 miles out of the woods and 50 miles home on the highway with a busted shaft in there.

 

If you carry spare shafts, all set up with bearings, the non c-clip is a little neater to repair in the woods because without the c-clip you don't have to remove the diff cover to replace a broken shaft. IF you can get the broken part out, that is.

 

Just throw in the one with the ratio you want and run it 'til it breaks. Then replace with a D44 or an 8.8.

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No I don’t no how to set up gears, and I am planning on 33X12.5 and what I might by building it was taking the gears out of one and putting it in the other. Just to get this thing on the road that’s all. My plan is to make it in to a weekend warrior out of it.

 

You can't do it like that. The gears must be "set up" properly. If not they can burn up or break within miles or even less. Gear set-up is one of the very few things I will gladly pay to have a pro do (and it's $150-250 per axle).

 

And I would personally NEVER consider using a Dana 35 for 33s, no matter what other people have thus far gotten away with. Especially when Explorer 8.8s are everywhere in the junkyards.

 

 

Actually, 90% of the time you can get away with it. BUT - that is if they are truely the same axle. As in they came off the same line. Wether you can do that in this case I don't know.

 

If not, it's a great chance to learn how! I mean, if they explode, who cares?

 

 

But, I'd buy a real axle. There's a D44 rear with a full spool and 4.88s that's going for $100 around here... Look around for deals.

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I wheeled with a D35 for a few trips on 33's, and after destroying the 2 axles I upgraded. After wheeling several more times I am upgrading again. My point is.. I have seen way to many D35 and front D44 shafts explode. Granted it wasn't on what most here wheel, but peer pressure make ppl do some dumb stuff :brows:

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I agree with the previous posts. This swap will not be worth the time and effort.

 

Find a D44 or 8.8 and put the effort into that. In the mean time run what you have a be careful with the skinny pedal.

 

I would take the NON"C" clip over the "C" Clip D35, that is correct. but to do what you are suggesting its just not worth it.

 

BTW, you "C" Clip haters out there....Here is a news flash the 8.8 & 8.25 are both "C" CLIP axles!!!

 

The nice thing with the 1996 and up 8.8 is, in the unlikely event you manage to brake an axle the disc brakes will keep it from running out. Now I wouldn't go to far or to fast with the calliper bolts holding the axle in, but with a ginger pedal, it will get you off the trail!!!

 

I am runnin a NON "C" Clip D345 with 33's locked and you have all seen the pics I posted. its not hard core stuff, but its still only a D35 on 33's!! There is a guy in my club who wheels prety hard on NON "C" Clip D35s w 35's!!! :eek: :eek: He has broken a couple axles, but hes still going strong with it!!!

Its all the way you wheel. Having a auto is easier on it also.

CW

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hec man i still don't no what i am doing with this set up someone said that they had a set of axles out of a Ford like 78 or 79 Ford Ford 9 in the back and D44 upfront now that would be great but all the work of putting the front axle under the front. But the gear are what I really want 4.10. Unless putting a full width axle under the front is not as hard as i am thinking.

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