Paul Bruchal Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 I'm going to try to look at this MJ this weekend. The current owner sent me some pics of the rust. What I want to ask you is, do you have any idea how much it would cost to weld in the driver side floor board and to fix the rust you'll see in the pics? I never paid for body work before. If I knew anything about body work, I would at least try to attempt, but I don't.... Image Not Found Image Not Found I'm guessing this is the floor board? He said he cut the rust away and just needs sheet metal to be welded in place. Image Not Found
Dirteatr717 Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 It needs rockers floors and those framerails aret looking to healthy either :ack:
Paul Bruchal Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 Is it hard to take the bed off? Id want to do this "if I buy this" and do a full check over for rust.
SubSonic Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 Find someone proficient in MIG welding for the body panels and weld in *galvanized* steel, and do bodywork over that. However if the frame rails are shot, you may want to reconsider the purchase. edit: and no the bed isn't terribly hard to remove, there should be a write up on this forum.
Paul Bruchal Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 Okay... I'm passing up on this one too. The search continues.
SubSonic Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 You northerners and your rusty Comanches :dunno: ;)
AmJay Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 Is that a real 4x4 eliminator? All I see is the undercoating flaked off and surface rust on the frame. I never welded in my life or did much body work but managed to replace the floor pans on my MJ. It's not like it has to look beautiful. It gets covered up. If I can do it anyone can. Up here in the north that looks beautiful.
SubSonic Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 You are right, the frame rails may be just fine... and the truck could still be worth while. Up here in the north that looks beautiful. Hmm I guess I'm just spoiled... :shake:
ComancheKid45 Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 Take a screwdriver and poke around......if the frame is in decent shape id snatch that baby up. Thats close to the same setup and is the same scheme as my 90 Eliminator! :cheers:
Paul Bruchal Posted March 2, 2011 Author Posted March 2, 2011 Alright, I'm not passing this up. I'm calling the guy tomorrow afternoon and see if hell meet me half way.....tax return should be coming next week :D
Paul Bruchal Posted March 2, 2011 Author Posted March 2, 2011 Oh, almost for got... the owner says that there is only 2 things wrong with this truck... Already got #1 covered...RUST.. #2 is that there is a bad seal on the gastank???? :hmm:" It leaks gas when you fill it past half tank." IDK anything about this... do you?
CTswampyankee Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 Oh, almost for got... the owner says that there is only 2 things wrong with this truck...Already got #1 covered...RUST.. #2 is that there is a bad seal on the gastank???? :hmm:" It leaks gas when you fill it past half tank." IDK anything about this... do you? My 90 has that gas tank leak. I been driving it like that an don't put more than a half tank in. Been like that since i baught it 6 months ago. :dunce:
Paul Bruchal Posted March 2, 2011 Author Posted March 2, 2011 I just called the guy thats selling it, he told me that a lady from Ohio is coming to get it Sunday evening :( .... Thats a ridiculous drive from Ohio to eastern NC :nuts: ... I think thats a scam..... He said that he'll call me back Monday morning if it was a no show...
xjrev10 Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 I had to put a new tank in my 91. Leaking at the seam. Found tanks online from 123.99 to 250 bucks.
Walkenvol Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 My $0.02 is comanche's aren't that rare. Why buy a rusted one when a cancer free one can be located. Personally, I'd travel to get rust free vs picking up something rusted local. Much easier to fix mechanical issues than rust IMHO. Other than the floor boards, fix all the rust spots you see and more pop up later - an ongoing battle. Different issue if your after a trail beater.
dasbulliwagen Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 Yeah, I think being in NC you can find much better ones than that. My parts truck is a local NC truck and has nowhere near the rust that thing has.... only has one little spot on the drivers floor.... THATS IT! Keep looking around in NC and youll find a better truck.
Paul Bruchal Posted March 3, 2011 Author Posted March 3, 2011 My $0.02 is comanche's aren't that rare. Why buy a rusted one when a cancer free one can be located. Personally, I'd travel to get rust free vs picking up something rusted local. Much easier to fix mechanical issues than rust IMHO. Other than the floor boards, fix all the rust spots you see and more pop up later - an ongoing battle. Different issue if your after a trail beater. What I'm after is more of a project truck than a DD or a trail truck... I found a rust free truck in Williamsburg VA except its a 4 cyl. for $4300 and its 6 hrs away.
Walkenvol Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 What I'm after is more of a project truck than a DD or a trail truck... I found a rust free truck in Williamsburg VA except its a 4 cyl. for $4300 and its 6 hrs away. Every Comanche is pretty much a project truck since they are between 19-25 years old. How do you plan on ultimately using the truck? Daily driver, rock crawler, fire wood hauler? If you want to fix up a Comanche for general use, then find one with little to no rust. If your going to beat on it, then the body condition is not a big deal. Your in the south so it shouldn't be too hard if your patient. Here's one in KY that looks pretty good. http://bgky.craigslist.org/cto/2211036965.html They come up on craigslist around these parts regularly. Good luck.
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