Dirteatr717 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Does anyone happen to have any good write-ups on how to make your doors removable? I bought a set of YJ soft doors last summer and I know I'll have to adjust the latching mechanism so it meets the striker correctly. I've seen the door mod on newer Cherokees but our hinges and pin setup is different Thanks in advance -Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Check out '89Eliminators build thread. He mad half doors using full MJ doors, and made them removable. GoBlazers also did, although he recommends against it, as the doors never seal right again after you hack the hinge. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 As long as you don't take the hinge off it should be fine but I'm not sure what to cut... I've been having fun with my dremel lately and don't want to get ahead of myself :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motion Offroad Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I would recommend NOT taking the bolts out of the door; the doors will line us much easier if you don't. You can fit a dremel tool in there with a cut-off wheel if you try hard enough. Here is where you want to cut: Once it's cut you can simply pound the bottom portion off: On the passenger side sometimes the factory pin is pushed in from the bottom up (thus when you pound the cut-off part out the pin goes with it). Most times this was only the case on like 92+ models as every older model we've done this to has had the pin pressed in from the top. Drivers side regardless of year has always been pressed in from the top. We've also found that cutting the pin shorter helps get the doors on/off easier. We typically leave the bottom pin just a tad longer so we can get that one lined up first than the top one slides in easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks! Off to the hardware store to get some more cutoffwheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I've done it both ways. (lol) The hinges are weak from the factory, do you think taking 25% off the hinges won't effect them? I'm no rocket surgeon, but if my math adds up, that makes the flimsy factory hinge at least 25% weaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 After I cut it out I'll tac weld the hinge on all corners to help... I don't do anything crazy in my jeep so that 25% shouldn't hurt it too much right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudtruck87 Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 I built my tube doors and although they aren't as easy as a lift off job they seal fine and I can put them on by myself. ( no need to have some one hold the door and another hunt for the hole. ) I am posting this at night so I will take pictures of my hinge modification tomorrow. Basically all I did was modify the inner most top bolt hole. I cut a slot so I can leave one bolt in the door on the top and bottom. Then all I have to do is set the door on and off. Yes I agree you can't do this in 30 seconds but I can put on both doors in about 5 min. The advantage is the door alignment is proper and I don't have leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudtruck87 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Haven't forgotten. Weather and time haven't lined up yet so I can take the doors off and take all the pictures. I plan to have pictures with the doors on, doors off and then tube doors on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-man930 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 always interested in this topic. I'll be doing it someday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 just did this mod and its easy as hell. took me about an hour and a half to do both sides. looks and feels great but a seatbelt is called for on the serious stuff or you'll go rolling out! :shake: poser pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Did this to my Cherokee with cutting the lower hinge off (4dr Cherokee so pretty much exactly the same thing) and plan on doing it to the Comanche as well. I've never had any issues with it but would highly recommend strengthening the frame some if you plan on wheeling without doors on (even rock rails help wonders). Only pic I have of her with the doors off before she was totaled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 i could see how it would weaken the unibody a little without the door there but i wouldnt think it was enough to "do" anything serious :dunno: if anybody wants pics/info on how to do it while the doors are still on. id be glad to help. its pretty straight forward but with the doors being on throws a little curve ball at you. you have to cut underneath the hinge you are cutting off cause theres a little lip where the hinge goes on the door. put about four or five cuts in that so when you beat the hinge part down it'll break those and slide on out. id also recommend (for dremel) the re-enforced cutting wheels or at least the bigger cutting wheels to get all the way through it. once you think you've got it, i took a small flathead screw driver first and tapped it inbetween the bottom of the hinge and the hinge part where id been cutting to get it down a bit. then a bigger flathead to widen, finally going to my punches to knock it the rest of the way off. when your cutting, cut as far through as you can get (its tight in there), directly go to using the flathead or hitting it down (whichever your to first) while the metal is still warm from cutting. this will help break whatever little piece you can't get through. i think i might of once got all the way through it but more then not there was still a little piece i couldnt get through all the way. youll pretty much figure it out as you go. its not rocket science but i figure my steps might help others, so why not post it :smart: also i threw in grease in the holes and put the doors on and off two or three times just to make it easier to do it. it really helped A LOT because i tried the first time without grease :eek: oh yeah i used a floor jack and length of wood to pop the door out the first time. really saved my back. tools i used: small flathead, big flathead, alignment punch, two pound mallet, dremel 4000, re-enforced cut-off wheels, beer and loud classic rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I would personally go the half door route, make them removable but have a set of half doors to switch too. Keep in mind if you ever get into a tree or rock without the door completely off it can catch and create more damage by getting inside your cab and smashing your b pillar area pretty bad making it hard to ever close the door upon re installing. At least with a door on it will usually still open and shut after a bad encounter with tree or rock. As for structural, anyone that has had a XJ and wheeled it hard knows the tailgate issues that can happen, and thats with it there. So I would say rock sliders are a must for structure support without doors for wheeling. For street, I think most states require a certain amount of drop inside cab to be legal without doors. Check your local laws to see before hitting the open road. While your at it consider what you will feel like in that unlikely chance of being T boned. I think half or tube doors are best for vehicle protection, personal protection, and safety. I once saw a guy roll with no doors and get pinned in his rig because a rock about the size of a 33 inch tire was in his lap. Somehow he got real lucky and it didn't break any bones. Oh, and most importantly. MJ's just look funny with no doors at all on them... :cheers: but thats just opinion as well. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 i like the no doors look and i am going to make up a set of half doors but its raining here so not today :( as for rock rails thats on the list too. i figure the unibody couldnt handle the hardcore $#!& doorless but does anyone acutally have proof of what no doors and hardcore wheelin will do???? i don't want to hear opinions, i want facts! from people who lived it. i have checked out my local laws and its no biggie. ive stopped and talked to the police (in serveral cities/towns) and they all loved it. saw nothing wrong with it. just have to throw on a seatbelt. if i do get stopped by a prick cop, ill just say "hell its a jeep. do the rest have doors." also if you notice there is a drop in the cab at the door jam. a pretty good one too IMO but the only law here is about having a drivers side mirror. as for the T boned thing. so does that apply to a TJ, YJ, JK etc. etc.??? sure at least they have a wanna be rollcage but still a side impact with no doors........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 i like the no doors look and i am going to make up a set of half doors but its raining here so not today :( as for rock rails thats on the list too. i figure the unibody couldnt handle the hardcore $#!& doorless but does anyone acutally have proof of what no doors and hardcore wheelin will do???? i don't want to hear opinions, i want facts! from people who lived it. i have checked out my local laws and its no biggie. ive stopped and talked to the police (in serveral cities/towns) and they all loved it. saw nothing wrong with it. just have to throw on a seatbelt. if i do get stopped by a prick cop, ill just say "hell its a jeep. do the rest have doors." also if you notice there is a drop in the cab at the door jam. a pretty good one too IMO but the only law here is about having a drivers side mirror. as for the T boned thing. so does that apply to a TJ, YJ, JK etc. etc.??? sure at least they have a wanna be rollcage but still a side impact with no doors........ I explained in fact a doorless situation. And yes I have also in person seen doors never be able to be closed once the rig was wheeled without them (been wheeling for close to 20 years). Peronally on my rig.....No, I have always had half doors. Its work to build a good set of half doors. And cool factor...half doors win over no doors. Anyone that appreciates fab work will be impressed with half doors more than just your doors removed. Yes it applys to TJ YJ JK CJ and any other jeep, or $#!& a mazda 626 with no doors as well. But hey, its just my opinion on the matter. Great thing is you can do whatever you like. The drop inside a TJ is twice what a MJ is. Like I said before though, Its just my opinion on the matter. I don't feel its as safe as a set of half doors. So, ya I have proof. I wish I could find the pictures of the guy pinned in the landcruiser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 the unibody can handle being doorless. the MJ has a pretty strong frame for being a unibody. i have wheeled doorless before, and my doors close and open fine. but like said before, half doors win in the cool factor. i always get complements on mine whether on the trail or just parked in town somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 i was just about to email you over at Cherokee forum. i don't know why not here but whatever. do you have more pics/info on how you did yours? in the build thread maybe? havent checked. I'm about to go pick up some doors for the operation and at 25 bucks a pop I'm not too worried about it if i mess up but being prepared is the name of the game, so lets have that info! :D on a side note. love the truck and I'm glad an Mj can win over a cherokee,,, on its own forum no less! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 yeah there are some pics in my build thread. i actually had to make 2 separate doors before i was happy. i used WAY to heavy of sheetmetal (don't remember gauge) but the door turned out to be heavier then a full door once it was fully welded hahaha. now this second one is super light, and i cut it different so it was more comfortable to rest my arm on. overall its a GREAT improvement because you get the visibility of no doors, but you also get some protection. now if i could only find some time to finish the passenger side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Some measurements would be greatly appreciated wade :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 alright ive got my door and ive gutted it. i checked the build thread and there was like one or two pics. not in detail or anything. how did you go about the inside? just welded up one whole new piece? is there enough room to cut a little lower down then where you have yours and still have good cover? i know you said you don't remember what thickness and I'm sure i can wing it but i don't want to go overboard or under to where itll bow under pressure or something retarded. dude just upload pics. its not hard and itll save on A LOT of ?. :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 now would be a good time for your advice i cut ten inches down and i can't remember how long. i see my angles are a bit more vertical then yours. no biggie i guess. I'm picking up some metal tomorrow and might tack a few into place to get a feel. i havent decided on thickness but I'm thinking one the same size as the door should suffice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 on the inside of the door.....i cut the outside to be level with the lower portion of the huge opening on the inside of the door (if that makes any sense). I'm still in the process of making my pass side door, so i will try and take some pics tomorrow for you. and for the sheet metal, i just brought a piece of the door and matched it to what they had at the steel yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 totally understand. i appreciate it :thumbsup: i sat and went over it a few more times a minute ago and ive already got a good game plan. I'm also thinking about rigging up a lever to lock and unlock the door. i know, why lock a half door?.. well why not. i can do it now but after welding the panels on its unreachable. i don't know just a thought but i might go on and do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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