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what route to go?


Widetrack or stock width?  

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  1. 1. Widetrack or stock width?

    • Go widetrack!
      2
    • Narrow it and stay stock width, no need to run a bigger front diff for your needs.
      1


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So i've started out with a totaly stock drivetrain 1990 MJ longbox, 4.0, AW4, NP231 4x4. Well This truck came stock with a Dana 30/35 diffs. I purchased a Dana 44 out of what I beleive to be a 74+ wagoneer widetrack. This diff measures 63" from outside of drum to outside of drum. Right now it has a 6x5.5 bolt pattern, I would like to convert it to 5x4.5 (So I can still use my set of 5 15x8 black rockcrawlers). I have narrowed down to two possible options.

 

Go widetrack: This would require purchasing a Matching width dana44 front axle and building that as well. Also would require fabricating in order to run coils (I would like to keep the nice ride of coils). In addition this would require a signifcant amount more money to build the other axle as well as largely increased downtime for the jeep. It is currently in bad need of some suspension work (several blown bushings as well as the need for new brakes) .

 

Narrow the Dana44 I already have and go stock width: This was the first thing That I had thought of as it would be less expensive since I would not have to build another axle. As well as I could (possibly) use the drums already on my dana35 and if not then get ones of a xj/mj dana44. This would have a much lesser investment as well as much less downtime for the MJ.

 

Now I'll state my intent with the MJ. I plan to take it out on trips with the local NAXJA crowd and any other wheelin trips that seem appealing. All though I'm NOT hard on any of my vehicles, in that regard i'm a bit of a wus and don't like body damage so it would not be used for rockcrawling or for wheelin in areas that have a high potential for carnage. I know I know, you say then how do you expect to really wheel? well I guess thats just how I am. Scratches, some dents, little things like that i'm fine with but destroyed rocker panels, ripped of gutters etc are not my thing. Anyways, that is currently where I stand on things. If anyone sees any info that is incorrect or has any peices of info or guidance as to what I should do then please by all means post up!! This is my first experience with a 4x4 (typically a BMW guy) so i'm pretty new to this stuff.

 

Thanks

Tom

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I must agree... sell the current D44 and go the 8.8 route. I've always been fond of getting them with open diffs and throwing in a Lockright. There is no carrier break (as Southen Crawlin stated) parts are everywhere, they are really strong, and they are cheap. '96 to '99 (I believe) are the years to get with 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. All the Ford Explorers from those years have that axle. It can also be found under those same years Mercury Mountaineers. These axle can be found in 4.10 ratio quite frequently too.

 

You also mentioned possibly upgrading the front axle. For how you are planning on wheeling.... I would just upgrade to a newer one piece set of shafts with the bigger 297/760 joint (all TJ's and 96 and newer XJ's). Or find a 96 or so HP XJ axle and swap in some 4.10's a locker and bada bam bada bing! jamminz.gif

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I agree with the 8.8 suggestions...

 

A few years back I had picked up FSJ D44's, several of them, and I eventually decided against the whole modded 44 deal because they are hard parts.

 

$100 at any U-PULL it that has an 8.8 with discs and 4.10 gears, a $350 lunch box locker, and an upgraded front with OX selectable Locker is the best way to go for 34" tire and smaller.

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Keep in mind that if you convert this axle to 5x4.5, but want to run a D44 front, well, you can't go 5x4.5 on a D44 front unless you run unit bearings (you do NOT want to go down this road).

 

 

 

The wide-track jeeps at 63" rear, 64" front are actually not a bad width. If you run say a 15x8 with 4.5" BS it'd be barely wider than my NT setup with 15x8's with 3.5" BS. And I'm narrow enough to fit through pretty much anything that anybody else can (other than those stupid suzuki guys).

 

 

True full-width is 67" WMS-WMS.

 

 

Now, you never said what size tires you want? I hate the D30, so, I always tell people to get rid of it for anything over 33s. But, if you plan to run a D44 front, you're going to run into a lot of trouble if you keep that axle at its current width. Why? All W/T front axles are passenger side drop (If I'm not mistaken). This necessitates a tcase swap...

 

 

Now, if you want to go D44s front and rear and at the current width of that axle and are willing to take the time to do the work; then I'd say keep it as is.

 

 

I'd NOT consider narrowing it. I was narrowing a HPD44 for my front, and basically gave up simply because it was so time consuming and was going to cost me a bunch more money in the end. I wound up trading it off for - actually, it's going to decrease the cost of my chromos and 37s.

 

 

If you want to stick with the D30 front, look for an 8.8 or an XJ/MJ D44, for an MJ/SJ AMC20, or a SJ D44. Or run an isuzu 12B with adpater to the 5x4.5 pattern... It'll net you 4.56s and disk brakes (LSD or 4.77 gears optional). Or even a bloody toyota rear.

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I know I keep saying this every time the subject comes up but, grab a Mopar 8 3/4 for the rear. 5 on 4.5, drop out third, it's a cool setup if you ask me.

what can those be found under?

anything close to stock width in that?

disc brakes I imagine are available/have been done by the musclecar guys.

I'm going 8.8 or 8 3/4 wen I do it this spring.

I was leaning towards 8.8 because I can go find one geared 3.73 to match my front for about $90.

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My MOPAR-nut neighbor is running an 8 3/4 under his Duster. The whole vehicle is literally in pieces at the moment....he is sending out the whole rolling chassis/body for soda blasting. I can get pics/measurements/sources if you want (?)

 

The only problem he's having with it is the third member won't completely seal to the housing, and it weeps gear oil out the bottom :cry:

 

Jeff

 

edit.... and he did a junkyard homebrew disc conversion on it for relatively short money....

 

edit X2: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flat ... ndex3.html Just about anything you want to know about an 8 3/4...

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I know I keep saying this every time the subject comes up but, grab a Mopar 8 3/4 for the rear. 5 on 4.5, drop out third, it's a cool setup if you ask me.

what can those be found under?

anything close to stock width in that?

disc brakes I imagine are available/have been done by the musclecar guys.

I'm going 8.8 or 8 3/4 wen I do it this spring.

I was leaning towards 8.8 because I can go find one geared 3.73 to match my front for about $90.

 

My rear is exactly stock width, the only mods were moving the spring perches in about an inch and a half.

If you look under any pre-80's Dodge truck,van or full size car you should be able to find one. Mine is from a 66' D100 pick-up. Look for the drop out third member and you want one with an "X" cast on the carrier, there will also be numbers cast in the side of the carrier. You want the last three to be either "741" or "742" those are the stronger ones. Disc brake kits are readily avaliable. The gears are usually 3:73s. I don't know why but mine was a 2:91, luckily for me my boss has a 69' Charger that looks almost identical to the one in Fast and Furious, deep pockets and a heavy foot. He layed into the charger broke his axle a boom I get a free carrier with 3:91 gears. I put a mini spool in it bolted her up and have been loving it ever since. And the trick to not having them leak is to not be shy with the silver sealant. :chillin:

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I don't think anyone mentioned it yet:

PICT8689r.jpg

 

:D :brows: :teehee:

 

The load sensing brake doohickey is busted and hasn't given me any problems yet. I've tested it on several different surfaces too jamminz.gif I really need to rip it out of there and get a new prop valve. I also don't have the parking brake hooked up yet. Did MORE make a 8.8 conversion kit at one point in time (parking brake, leaf perches, shock mounts, etc)? I haven't seen it on their website. EDIT: http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/clien ... prokey=246 cheesus thats pricey!!

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Yup for no MORE then what was inthe kit it was ripping ppl a new a$$

 

Hi guys, I had a guy asking about this kit (and chewed me on the $$$) and the reason our kit is more $$$ is due to the fact we include the new parking brake cables and conversion yoke with our kit.

 

If you are looking for just the bracket kit we also have those available and we will get our web guy to post it.

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Yup for no MORE then what was inthe kit it was ripping ppl a new a$$

Hi guys, I had a guy asking about this kit (and chewed me on the $$$) and the reason our kit is more $$$ is due to the fact we include the new parking brake cables and conversion yoke with our kit.

 

As in a slip-yoke eliminator?

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Yup for no MORE then what was inthe kit it was ripping ppl a new a$$

Hi guys, I had a guy asking about this kit (and chewed me on the $$$) and the reason our kit is more $$$ is due to the fact we include the new parking brake cables and conversion yoke with our kit.

 

As in a slip-yoke eliminator?

 

 

No, spicer part number c2-2-****, it's the companion flange.

 

 

Hell, I could get you the part number and get the part from the spicer dealer for $30... Or GET IT WITH THE AXLE!

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Yup for no MORE then what was inthe kit it was ripping ppl a new a$$

 

Hi guys, I had a guy asking about this kit (and chewed me on the $$$) and the reason our kit is more $$$ is due to the fact we include the new parking brake cables and conversion yoke with our kit.

 

If you are looking for just the bracket kit we also have those available and we will get our web guy to post it.

ahh, that picture is deceiving. i guess i just assumed that was all that came in it was what was in the picture...

 

but do parking brake lines and a C flange really up the value 250bucks?

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