Renix to HO swap

[martens.jam]

Hey guy's :waving:

I recently bought an 89 Pioneer and the engine is in sad shape, it burns and leaks oil, and the exhaust manifold is cracked and needs replacement or welding. I want to buy a parts XJ and I'm strongly considering an engine swap to the newer HO engine. I'm just wondering what kind of man hours I can expect to do the wiring harness swap. Also the XJ I'm considering has a 5spd in it but I might want to keep my automatic, is the wiring still somewhat the same? Any thoughts?

Thanks

[JENSSEN]

It's easy! Keep your intake manifold , gaskett match the cylinder head, move it to your original intake draw it out and "port" you intake if you would like or just bolt your old intake on and move the renix sensors from the block over. You won't gain all the HO benefits but it's still a noticable difference by the seat of the pants dyno :)

 

 

I have done it and it works well

[Oizarod115]

to do it the "right" way, swapping the harness i'd expect a full day of work in the truck pullin the dash and running the harness, but you'll get practice when pulling the parts harness so maybe it won't be that bad. consider a heater core for 40$ while you're in there. it'd certainly be easy with the dash out.

 

outside once the harness is run inside the truck it'll be no sweat, just plug n play. you will need a fuel sender for an HO comanche and the fuel lines or possibly you could reverse the polarity by swapping some wires at the fuel sender (HO gauges read backwards from renix gauges)

 

also exhaust manifold for an HO will not bolt up to the intermediate pipe for a renix, so you'll need to swap the exhaust from the cat to the manifold, tailpipe will still work fine.

 

and you'll want to consider getting the radiator/hoses/bottle setup off the parts jeep too.

 

as far as automatic with a manual harness, it'd be to much work to hack something together so you'll want to go ahead and start with an automatic parts jeep, that way you have the TCU and all the extra sensor-age/wiring.

[martens.jam]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm not sure when I'll be doing it due to lack of funds but hopefully I can do something soon to make it more reliable. For now I guess I'm stuck doing research and asking questions :typing:

[jpnjim]

Renix to HO swap:

 

Method #1: swap in the HO engine/head, keep the Renix intake/exhaust/TB, etc (have to somehow match intake to head)

 

Method #2: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds/TB, but keep the Renix control & sensors

 

Method #3: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds & HO engine control system in.

 

I picked #2,

toughest part was adapting the renix throttle position sensor to the HO throttle body.

If you have an automatic, you'd have two TPS's to swap (since the auto tranny has it's own TPS).

 

Also had to reroute the Renix fuel lines to get them in the right locations for the HO fuel rail.

 

Swap all the Renix sensors to the HO engine, get an HO headpipe, eliminate the EGR (could be a problem if they check emissions in your area), swap the Mopar alternator for the Renix's GM alternator, and you are pretty much there.

 

 

My swap was a little more complicated since I used a YJ 4.0L (different accessory drive, different motor mount brackets, no 90* oil filter adapter, etc).

[bentnotbusted]

You do not need to re-wire your whole truck. You do not need to live with mismatched intake ports. It's entirely possible to drop the entire HO engine in with almost no wiring mods at all.

 

Use the HO manifolds (and exhaust down-pipe as previously mentioned). You'll have to adapt the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body and swap over all the rest of the sensors. One of the temp senders gets relocated to the thermostat housing so the wiring for that will need to be re-routed. Someone makes a kit to adapt the TPS (Hesco?), but if you get creative you can do it yourself. You'll also need the Renix Distributor. HO oil filter interferes with the EVAP canistor so you either have to swap the filter adaptor or relocate the canistor. You'll need the HO vacuum lines and airbox as well as the HO throttle cable. There's some debate, by the way, as to whether or not the HO blocks are threaded for the knock sensor, my '93 block was. I think probably the most difficult part was dealing with the different fuel lines. I used some aftermarket line and fittings to adapt the HO fuel rail to the renix lines. A friend of mine running a very similar setup fabbed brackets to retain the Renix feul rail.

 

I've probably forgotten something here but this is how I did mine. Way easier than ripping the entire cab apart (in my opinion anyway), and it works great.

 

 

edit: yeah what jpnjim said. And I forgot the alternator (and brackets). Oh and it's still only one TPS with an auto, it just has two plugs.

[jpnjim]

You do not need to re-wire your whole truck. You do not need to live with mismatched intake ports. It's entirely possible to drop the entire HO engine in with almost no wiring mods at all.

 

Use the HO manifolds (and exhaust down-pipe as previously mentioned). You'll have to adapt the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body and swap over all the rest of the sensors. One of the temp senders gets relocated to the thermostat housing so the wiring for that will need to be re-routed. Someone makes a kit to adapt the TPS (Hesco?), but if you get creative you can do it yourself. You'll also need the Renix Distributor.

I forgot that, but yep I swapped the Renix distributor.

HO oil filter interferes with the EVAP canistor so you either have to swap the filter adaptor or relocate the canistor.

I used the Renix 90* filter adapter, with the HO screw in adapter

You'll need the HO vacuum lines and airbox as well as the HO throttle cable.

forgot about the throttle cable too, yep, that also needs to swap.

Now that you mention it, I think I also had to swap the matching HO throttle pedal assembly.

 

There's some debate, by the way, as to whether or not the HO blocks are threaded for the knock sensor, my '93 block was.

1992 YJ Renegade 4.0L had the knock sensor boss too

I think probably the most difficult part was dealing with the different fuel lines. I used some aftermarket line and fittings to adapt the HO fuel rail to the renix lines. A friend of mine running a very similar setup fabbed brackets to retain the Renix feul rail.

Memory has faded a little, but I think I made the connection/adaptation in the metal section of the lines.

 

I've probably forgotten something here but this is how I did mine. Way easier than ripping the entire cab apart (in my opinion anyway), and it works great.

 

 

edit: yeah what jpnjim said. And I forgot the alternator (and brackets). Oh and it's still only one TPS with an auto, it just has two plugs.

 

OK, I just have the extra TPS plug hanging there, and always thought ( :doh: ) it connected to a second TPS with the auto.

[Oizarod115]

i've got the hack-renix/ho swap too, my 97 TJ block has a port for knocksensor, i used HO cherokee fuel lines from the junkyard and compression fittings underneath the truck to keep the engine bay looking factory.

 

TPS was the hardest part.

 

dropping EGR will not effect your emissions test because the HO motor has different cam profile thats supposed to take care of the problem :dunno: my truck passed a smog tailpipe test with flying colors at nearly 0 emissions on all parts.

 

check it all out here.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17821

[TooTall]

I'm headed there my self!!!but maybe a few more miles!

[cruiser54]

Renix to HO swap:

 

Method #1: swap in the HO engine/head, keep the Renix intake/exhaust/TB, etc (have to somehow match intake to head)

 

Method #2: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds/TB, but keep the Renix control & sensors

 

Method #3: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds & HO engine control system in.

 

I picked #2,

toughest part was adapting the renix throttle position sensor to the HO throttle body.

If you have an automatic, you'd have two TPS's to swap (since the auto tranny has it's own TPS).

 

Also had to reroute the Renix fuel lines to get them in the right locations for the HO fuel rail.

 

Swap all the Renix sensors to the HO engine, get an HO headpipe, eliminate the EGR (could be a problem if they check emissions in your area), swap the Mopar alternator for the Renix's GM alternator, and you are pretty much there.

 

 

My swap was a little more complicated since I used a YJ 4.0L (different accessory drive, different motor mount brackets, no 90* oil filter adapter, etc).

 

I've done the #1 swap twice. Easy. Use the Renix manifolds, valve cover, dizzy and flexplate/flywheel. Simple.

[mvusse]

Reviving an old thread...

 

The 4.0 in my trail rig is on its last legs. Once warmed up it shows 0 oil pressure at anything under 2000 rpm unless I run 20w50, massive blow-by, and noticeable loss of power over the years to about what the 2.5 in my daily driver puts out.

 

Recently picked up a fully dressed 4.0 out of a 97 XJ with a reman 0630 head that has a port for the coolant temp sensor. Supposedly has blow by puffing out the dipstick tube, but I have time to fix this spare engine while getting the frame fixed on the truck, and with two engines the truck will still be mobile with the old engine in it.

 

Researching for the past week, I have decided on #2. I may use the 97 intake that came with the engine, or upgrade to a 99 one. Modifying the TPS seems fairly simple, and I should still have a HO (1996) gas pedal and throttle cable assembly laying around from a parts Cherokee I bought for a 4wd conversion on my 2wd 96XJ. The dual diaphragm booster and brake pedal assembly out of that one are already living in the truck.

 

Planning to a DIY port/polish on the head as well.

 

Wish me luck!

[neohic]

Wish me luck!

 

Go get'm, Marcell!

[Rockfrog]

No need for the HO pedal, just the cable, you just need to bend the Renix pedal slightly to take up the slack. Been running mine for about 6 months now.

[mvusse]

Found the cause of the blow-by puffing out the dipstick tube: #3 cylinder was cracked. have not checked yet to see how badly the cylinder got scored, but I'm planning on a .020 or .030 overbore anyway.

[cruiser54]

Reviving an old thread...

 

The 4.0 in my trail rig is on its last legs. Once warmed up it shows 0 oil pressure at anything under 2000 rpm unless I run 20w50, massive blow-by, and noticeable loss of power over the years to about what the 2.5 in my daily driver puts out.

 

Recently picked up a fully dressed 4.0 out of a 97 XJ with a reman 0630 head that has a port for the coolant temp sensor. Supposedly has blow by puffing out the dipstick tube, but I have time to fix this spare engine while getting the frame fixed on the truck, and with two engines the truck will still be mobile with the old engine in it.

 

Researching for the past week, I have decided on #2. I may use the 97 intake that came with the engine, or upgrade to a 99 one. Modifying the TPS seems fairly simple, and I should still have a HO (1996) gas pedal and throttle cable assembly laying around from a parts Cherokee I bought for a 4wd conversion on my 2wd 96XJ. The dual diaphragm booster and brake pedal assembly out of that one are already living in the truck.

 

Planning to a DIY port/polish on the head as well.

 

Wish me luck!

Just match port the Renix intake manifold to the HO head using the Renix gasket.

If you want a bigger throttle body, even bigger than the HO's, www.strokedjeep.com.

 

Here's a write-up on the swap. I have photos of the simple porting...

 

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

 

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

 

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

 

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

 

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The  flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

 

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

 

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

 

Revised 03/28/13

[mvusse]

Why do you suggest I should keep the Renix intake, and not use the HO one? TPS modification seems straightforward, and I have all other pieces needed for it (like throttle cable).

 

Also, even though the casting number on the head definitely says 0630, it does have the hole for the coolant temp sensor. It is a reman head, though, so it may have been drilled and tapped by a shop and not be factory.

 

The block (53020569) does have the boss for the knock sensor, but it has not been tapped.

 

The "puffing out the dipstick tube" turns out to have been caused by the #3 piston missing a chunk which also damaged the rings and scored the cylinder wall. A .020 or .030 overbore will easily take care of this and leave plenty left in case it ever needs bored again. Planning on using a 87-90 crank so I won't need a spacer for the harmonic balancer, and will probably get pistons that work with the longer 4.0 rods. Using the stock 97 camshaft, and planning on running 87 octane at around 1200 feet above sea level.

 

Currently still tearing down the block so I can take it to a machine shop to be bored and decked.

[cruiser54]

Why do you suggest I should keep the Renix intake, and not use the HO one? TPS modification seems straightforward, and I have all other pieces needed for it (like throttle cable).

 

Also, even though the casting number on the head definitely says 0630, it does have the hole for the coolant temp sensor. It is a reman head, though, so it may have been drilled and tapped by a shop and not be factory.

 

The block (53020569) does have the boss for the knock sensor, but it has not been tapped.

 

The "puffing out the dipstick tube" turns out to have been caused by the #3 piston missing a chunk which also damaged the rings and scored the cylinder wall. A .020 or .030 overbore will easily take care of this and leave plenty left in case it ever needs bored again. Planning on using a 87-90 crank so I won't need a spacer for the harmonic balancer, and will probably get pistons that work with the longer 4.0 rods. Using the stock 97 camshaft, and planning on running 87 octane at around 1200 feet above sea level.

 

Currently still tearing down the block so I can take it to a machine shop to be bored and decked.

 

Simpler in my book. 

[98jeepsrt8]

Sorry if this has been answered before. But there's way too many forums to sift thru each one. But I have a 89 Comanche I just picked up. I'm looking to swap out the 4.0 renix with a newer 4.0 out of a 95 Cherokee. I have the complete Cherokee already. Runs great. I was just curious as to what exactly I'm getting myself into. I'm not new to the jeep world. But I am new to the Cherokee world. I assume the swap will consist of swapping wiring harness, computer etc. I plan on swapping the entire engine tranny tcase out of the Cherokee to the Comanche. Is there any part of the wiring harness I can reuse in the Comanche? Or don't have to take the entire harness out of the Cherokee? Do I have to take the tranny computer also? And do I have to swap clusters too? Any info would be great! Thanks in advance and sorry if this has been asked 100 times before. I'm just confused because every post I see seems to be about either people swapping out a 4cyl for a 6cyl or re-using renix parts. Which isn't what I'm looking to do. Thanks again.