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Ok so I am about to burn this thing into the ground (UPDATE)


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I still have clutch issues... :headpop:

 

For the last few months I have been without a DD as the MJs clutch will not disengage. I have now dropped the transmission three times, I have replaced the following, clutch line (now is a hard line), flywheel, pressure plate, disk, pilot bushing, slave cylinder lines, slave cylinder (TWICE), master cylinder (TWICE). I have spent countless hours bleeding the darn thing, and now there seems to be no air coming out of the bleeder, only fluid.

 

I can shift the trans fine while the truck isnt running, or while the T-case is in neutral, but can't get it into gear while running.

 

I really am about to give up on this thing, two days ago as I was putting the trans in for the third time I looked up into the shifter hole as a MOUSE looked back down at me :fs1: . I've now spent the last two days cleaning out the nest and tearing apart the interior, sanitizing everything. :wall: I caught the mother in a mouse trap, and was forced to kill five babies as their mother was dead, and the only two outcomes they had were starving, or getting eaten. I believe that was one of the worst things I have ever had to do.

 

Also, the truck now runs like complete crap, feels like a miss, and the exhaust smells rich. I didnt have this issue before, but I did replace the CPS while I had everything apart, also replaced the fuel filter.

 

If I don't get this fixed within the next few weeks, I am gonna be forced to sell it, or I'll burn it :nuts:

 

If you have any other advice please help.

 

EDIT: Found the reason it was idling poor... MAP sensor was unhooked :dunno:

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Sounds like you've just gotten so involved in it that your overlooking something obvious. The old 'can't see the trees for the forest syndrome.' Maybe if you just backed off and let it sit for a spell, or surely there is a Jeep nut near by you could appeal to for help. And don't burn it. That small feeling of satisfaction will be replaced with regret after you cool down. I don't know how many vehicles I've bought at junk price because the owner had problems and couldn't fix them. One was as simple as switching plug wires. And one was out of gas. Good luck. Jim

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Question though, when you guys bleed the clutch, do you park it on level ground or do you jack the back end up? My buddy seems convinced that you cannot get all of the air out with the truck sitting on level ground.

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I haven't worked on a clutch for years, but only things I can think of offhand would be to make sure disc side stamped "flywheel side" is toward engine; FSM mentions too thick a disc as a possibility (sometimes happens with aftermarket parts especially), misalignment, warped clutch cover, make sure disc slides easily on input shaft splines (no binding, no burrs, etc), and of course, it mentions bleeding, which you've obviously done sufficiently.

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Had a simular problem with my sons XJ, just bleeding air out of the slave cylinder? I found the rubber boot from the inside of the cap that goes on the clutch master cylinder had fallen down in the bottom of the resivoir. The resevior was full of fluid and you could bleed all day long and get no fluid out of the slave! I kept looking in the resevior and thought something wasn't right, reach in there with a small screw driver and sure enough the little rubber boot was on the bottom restricting the flow of fluid. It's an easy check.

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don't give up,

i had clutch problems for 1 1/2 years,

i bought 3 clutches and 2 slave cyls, 3 clutch lines, 2 master cyls

maybe they gave you the wrong size clutch disc?

there are two sizes, did you check your old clutch plate to the new clutch plate?

my truck is said to have the 9 11/16 clutch, but in reality it has the 9 1/8 clutch,

it was made in 86 but the clutch was for 87+

 

also try slamming it into first when you have the clutch engaged,

i had to literally slam my shifter into first to get it to engage the first time,

now it works fine :)

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I still have clutch issues... :headpop: ...........

If I don't get this fixed within the next few weeks, I am gonna be forced to sell it, or I'll burn it :nuts: ................

 

Let me know before you douse it. I wanna watch. Or maybe I'll just bring a trailer and haul it down here for a bit while you cool off. I'll treat it nice, I PROMISE!!!!!!!! :brows:

 

Scott

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I caught the mother in a mouse trap, and was forced to kill five babies as their mother was dead, and the only two outcomes they had were starving, or getting eaten. I believe that was one of the worst things I have ever had to do.

 

 

:hijack: Please tell me that the above is ment to be sarcasm....

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I caught the mother in a mouse trap, and was forced to kill five babies as their mother was dead, and the only two outcomes they had were starving, or getting eaten. I believe that was one of the worst things I have ever had to do.

 

 

:hijack: Please tell me that the above is ment to be sarcasm....

 

:fool:

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+1 with what Harper said. I did the same thing on my CJ7 years back, put the clutch in around midnight after about 10 hours of wrenching. Took me a couple trans drops and lots of swearing to figure out what I did :shake: I put the clutch disc in backwards. To my defense there was not "engine side or transmission side" stamp :yes:

 

Good luck!

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I can shift the trans fine while the truck isnt running, or while the T-case is in neutral, but can't get it into gear while running.

 

Dunno if this will help you, but I had the exact same symtoms with my AX-15 swap but I am using and external slave setup.

 

Basically, the throwout bearing was only making partial contact with the pressure plate fingers because I did not install the proper transmission front bearing retainer (with snout).

 

With your internal slave? setup its possible the slave assembly is not seated/getting moved on the "pin" on the front trans when you go to bolt it up?

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Ok sorry for no update, I was someplace without internet... Anyway, I was looking at the end of the master cylinder, so I replaced that yet again... However, I am missing the bushing that goes in between the ring on the end of the master cylinder pushrod and the rod on the clutch pedal assembly. Could this possibly be the entire issue? The clutch worked fine before without this bushing so I am not sure. Anyone of you dedicated folks know the dimensions of it off of the top of your head? Or am I just gonna have to dig out my calipers and go measure?

 

Thanks guys

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IT LIVES!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

 

I have no Idea which part I replaced fixed it, but when I was bleeding the latest clutch master cylinder this happened

 

So I rewelded it all up, bled it... and drove it to the hardware store to replace all the bolts that grew legs and walked off over the last few months... (I blame the mice)

 

I'm wondering if the clutch pedal separating caused the whole issue in the first place, if so then its been hanging together for a long time.

 

Oh and don't judge me on the choice pedal... That was an irreversable modification the PO did, I hate the boy racer look of them, but they do place the pedals close together.... Which I kinda like

 

Anyways thank you everyone for all your help, my MJ would probably be a smoldering heap of metal without it. image_209027.gif

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..................

Anyways thank you everyone for all your help, my MJ would probably be a smoldering heap of metal without it. image_209027.gif

 

 

No, I would have stopped you just short of throwing the match, then when it burnt down to your fingertips causing you great pain, I would have just knocked you in the head and loaded your truck on a trailer headed for home.

 

I would have let you have it back...........eventually............probably. :dunno:

 

Glad things have worked out for the MJ.

 

Scott

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