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Dana 44 cost?


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I personally prefer the D44 cause its the correct width

 

:roll: The difference in width is something like 3/8" on each side which is a non issue.

 

The D44 and the 8.8 in the yard 'should' be the same price (it is here in SoCal). $200 is ok though since yards chard (out here) $120. 1/2 off day is always a hassel too with higher entry fees and more people with the same idea you have ;)

 

Also, Finding 8.8s at the yard with 4.10s can be quite a bit more challenging than the 3.73.

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The difference in width is something like 3/8" on each side which is a non issue.

No, it very much is NOT a non-issue. The rear wheels/tires on an MJ run very close to the leaf springs and inner fender with the stock axle. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, every time I did a trail ride I had fresh rubber marks on the inner fender when I got home. A difference of even 3/8" on each side (and I think it's really more than that) is enough to make it necessary to run non-OEM rims on an Exploder axle. Not "desirable" -- "necessary."

 

Personally, I'd choose the D44 because it's the right axle for the vehicle. $200 is a very good price. I guess prices have dropped, but a few years ago when I was active in NAXJA the going price for an XJ Dana 44 was around $500, and some were selling for $600.

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It's my understanding that the 8.8 is 5/8" shorter on each side,but that is not a problem either as I can use billet spacers to make the front and rear track width the same. I have also found several waggy D44's for cheap. I am not planning on 'thrashing' on my jeep. I still have to drive it daily,but I do want to build it strong the first time....never know what tomorrow brings!

I just didnt know if it would be worth the $200 and have to rebuild it. Thanks

-Lance

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The difference in width is something like 3/8" on each side which is a non issue.

No, it very much is NOT a non-issue. The rear wheels/tires on an MJ run very close to the leaf springs and inner fender with the stock axle. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, every time I did a trail ride I had fresh rubber marks on the inner fender when I got home. A difference of even 3/8" on each side (and I think it's really more than that) is enough to make it necessary to run non-OEM rims on an Exploder axle. Not "desirable" -- "necessary."

 

:roll:

 

Stock tires + stock wheels + explorer 8.8 = adequacy.

 

Sure, add a larger tire, flex it out off road and you'll get rubbing.

 

FWIW, Flex a stock explorer out and it rubs too (mine '96 did). :nuts:

 

Personally, I'd choose the D44 because it's the right axle for the vehicle. $200 is a very good price. I guess prices have dropped, but a few years ago when I was active in NAXJA the going price for an XJ Dana 44 was around $500, and some were selling for $600.

 

Right axle for the vehicle? :shake:

 

Going price on Naxja has been $350 for the last 5 years. (SoCal)

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And the D44 has bolt-in axle retention. Aren't 8.8's c-clip?

 

Yup they are, but its of no matter.

"C" Clips get a unwarranted bad rap. They are not a problem. they are blamed for much of the bad press with the D35. But the vast majority of these problems are rooted in the weak case and thin axle tubes, NOT the "C" Clips. See the weak axle housing flexes and when it does this far enough, it spits the clip. Also a good side shot can cause them to pop. But only because the case doesn't properly support them. Not so with the 8.8. It's built to hold up to King Kong, it's case rivals the D60 in size. You almost NEVER hear of someone loosing an axle due to "C"Clip failure in a 8.8. Frankly, the "C" Clip itself, in any axle doesn't fail, it pops out. YES a Disc brake set on the 8.8 would hold the axle in, but it would only serve as a gingerly get off the trail option.

 

CW

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IMO , you shouldn't pay over 300-600 for a used rear , depending on condition . However cheap out if you will , plan on spending 1200+ on rebuilding them .

In the end it doesn't get any cheaper . Just because they say its rebuilt doesn't mean its completely rebuilt . The price usually reflects the quality thats been put into it and

the amount of labor used . I spent about 1500 on my D44 so I get roused all the time about how much I spent , until they find out that its been Completely rebuilt .

 

Shafts , bearings , gears , brakes , Its nice to have a drivetrain with less than 500 miles on it . Rides like a brand new truck .. :yes:

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Yeah I plan on rebuilding mine w/a detroit locker,4.56's and some nice axles,seals/bearings,oh and yes disc brakes. I figured if I can 350-400 for the XJ D44 I will be happy. :yes:

-Lance

 

Cool beans.

 

If you had mentioned you planned on getting some nice axle shafts originally the D44 is the better way to go. I think there is only 1 (maybe 2) companies that make aftermarket shafts for the 8.8.

 

If you are planning on doing shafts and a detroit I would suggest upgrading to a 33 spline set up with alloys. Making an upgrade like this will pretty much guarantee a trouble free rear end. Something like this: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16120_5102.htm

 

Good luck.

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And the D44 has bolt-in axle retention. Aren't 8.8's c-clip?

 

Yup they are, but its of no matter.

"C" Clips get a unwarranted bad rap. They are not a problem. they are blamed for much of the bad press with the D35. But the vast majority of these problems are rooted in the weak case and thin axle tubes, NOT the "C" Clips. See the weak axle housing flexes and when it does this far enough, it spits the clip. Also a good side shot can cause them to pop. But only because the case doesn't properly support them. Not so with the 8.8. It's built to hold up to King Kong, it's case rivals the D60 in size. You almost NEVER hear of someone loosing an axle due to "C"Clip failure in a 8.8. Frankly, the "C" Clip itself, in any axle doesn't fail, it pops out. YES a Disc brake set on the 8.8 would hold the axle in, but it would only serve as a gingerly get off the trail option.

 

CW

 

That may be true of the 8.8, but the bad rap of the c-clip retention system was well earned on the drag strip and they are banned unless modified for anyone running any kind of speed. Granted, the 10-bolt GM rear accounted for most of the issues.

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And the D44 has bolt-in axle retention. Aren't 8.8's c-clip?

 

Yup they are, but its of no matter.

"C" Clips get a unwarranted bad rap. They are not a problem. they are blamed for much of the bad press with the D35. But the vast majority of these problems are rooted in the weak case and thin axle tubes, NOT the "C" Clips. See the weak axle housing flexes and when it does this far enough, it spits the clip. Also a good side shot can cause them to pop. But only because the case doesn't properly support them. Not so with the 8.8. It's built to hold up to King Kong, it's case rivals the D60 in size. You almost NEVER hear of someone loosing an axle due to "C"Clip failure in a 8.8. Frankly, the "C" Clip itself, in any axle doesn't fail, it pops out. YES a Disc brake set on the 8.8 would hold the axle in, but it would only serve as a gingerly get off the trail option.

 

CW

 

That may be true of the 8.8, but the bad rap of the c-clip retention system was well earned on the drag strip and they are banned unless modified for anyone running any kind of speed. Granted, the 10-bolt GM rear accounted for most of the issues.

 

The day ANY OF US runs even HALF the horse power one a drag car has... that comment may have some validity! I just hate miss information, and the false truths about the evil "C" Clip is one of the big ones!

 

CW

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I admitted that the 8.8 may be different, and that off-road might be differrent, but if a stock bolt-in axle can retain itself under the same conditions that the c-clips fail, that indicates a difference between an "adequate" system and a "superior" system. Calling one superior would not exactly qualify as misinformation as I never said the 8.8 c-clip was bad in my original post, just that the D44 was bolt-in. I did not comment on the relative merits. That was in the eye of the reader. I did put forth a fact about NHRA rules regarding c-clips and people could draw their own inferences from that.

 

Again referencing the rear 10-bolt GM, that axle had a serious issue with c-clip's disengaging and cars losing axles even in 6-cyl Nova's. There were countless incidents of this in the '70s GM cars. I witnessed the 6-cyl Nova 4dr losing an axle shaft while making a turn at 5-10 MPH.

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Again referencing the rear 10-bolt GM, that axle had a serious issue with c-clip's disengaging and cars losing axles even in 6-cyl Nova's. There were countless incidents of this in the '70s GM cars. I witnessed the 6-cyl Nova 4dr losing an axle shaft while making a turn at 5-10 MPH.

 

My buddy and I were taking a slight turn in his 1980's Pontiac Grand Am (GM G body), when...

 

 

WHHHHAAAAAAAAAAMMM!!!!!!

 

 

The drivers side tire/wheel & axleshaft took the drivers side mirror right off the car, and smashed off the door glass soooo frickin hard I have no idea how it didn't go right through and knock my buddy into the back seat.

 

 

The shaft was completely intact & un damaged, and the c-clip was found floating around in the gear oil when they pulled the cover.

 

10 bolt GM.

 

 

edit:

 

the Grand Am was (under)powered by a 150hp powerhouse Pontiac 301 4bbl V8/3spd auto.

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WOW, didnt mean for this to turn into a pissin match over c-clips.Sorry.

Well, now I have stumbled onto another option....a 9"! I have a friend that owns an Off Road fab shop and has a new FAB 9 housing just lying around jamminz.gif ! He has the jig to set up the ends and make it the length I need...and has the disc brake mounts! Now lets here some thoughts?!

-Lance

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WOW, didnt mean for this to turn into a pissin match over c-clips.Sorry.

Well, now I have stumbled onto another option....a 9"! I have a friend that owns an Off Road fab shop and has a new FAB 9 housing just lying around jamminz.gif ! He has the jig to set up the ends and make it the length I need...and has the disc brake mounts! Now lets here some thoughts?!

-Lance

 

Lance,

 

If you can give us an idea on what you are planning to do with the vehicle it might make a difference but the low pinion 9 is the not a good axle for offroading. The lowest pinion out there (2.25" below the axle centerline). That plus the fact that the pinion is short (10.6") leaves it VERY exposed to hazards (i.e. rocks, etc.). After a while they can be next to impossible to keep from leaking too with some of the cheaper stamped housings (they are also sometimes completely formed out of 3/16"). If I were building a street car I would run a Ford LP 9" all day long but for offroad I would not suggest it.

 

On the other hand, a high pinion 9" like the TrueHi9 (not the currie high pinion crap) is one of the best axles because the pinion is 2.25" ABOVE the centerline of the axle tube. Keeps great driveline angles plus keeps it out of harms way. Formed housings like Spidertrax, RuffStuff, and the newer Currie have proven to be far more durable housings compared to the stamped basic housings. Debates on its ability to withstand big horsepower have surfaced on this though.

 

Since we brought it up...the 8.8 has a 1.5" pinion below the centerline and with the longer pinion (11.7") rotate upwards keeps it out of harms way slightly better. Other than the fact it has C-Clips (where it is only an issue when a shaft fails) it is an excellent aftermarket upgrade from an 8.25 or a D35. I might consider an 8.8 over the LP9" for a light duty rig with 33" tires.

 

For reference, the Dana 44 is not too bad with a pinion 1.5” below the centerline of the axle and a pinion length of 11.375”.

 

Personally I like the low pinion D60 the best (specially when shaved). It has a pinion that is 1.125" BELOW the centerline with a 13.3" pinion. When rotated to point the pinion towards the transmission/tc, the driveline is very much kept out of harms way. Reasonably cheap to build up too and one can run 35 spline semi float shafts affordably.

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You guys are right it is totally overkill for what I am going to do. I am going to use my MJ for camping and fishing with my son(s). I have never been "wheelin" so to speak. I have been off road rain and in a friends FAST prerunner Chevy. I have also been muddin. I just plan to build my truck the strongest I can...do it right the first time, for my intensions.

Since mine is 2wd I also like to entertain the HOT ROD MJ thought. 4.6,beefed AW4,D44 detroit 4.10's,15x4-15x8 centerline tellstars,cowl induction hood,etc...but those are pipe dreams.

-Lance

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You guys are right it is totally overkill for what I am going to do. I am going to use my MJ for camping and fishing with my son(s). I have never been "wheelin" so to speak. I have been off road rain and in a friends FAST prerunner Chevy. I have also been muddin. I just plan to build my truck the strongest I can...do it right the first time, for my intensions.

Since mine is 2wd I also like to entertain the HOT ROD MJ thought. 4.6,beefed AW4,D44 detroit 4.10's,15x4-15x8 centerline tellstars,cowl induction hood,etc...but those are pipe dreams.

-Lance

 

I think a stock 44 with a detroit and even stock shafts would be a good way to go for you.

 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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  • 2 months later...

I can get an XJ D44 for about $480 with Truck shipping included... Its already matched to my 3:55 Ratio. Judging by this topic that doesnt seem like a bad deal. May need a brake job the owner metioned but It would be gone over real good and cleaned up before id throw it in anyway. What do you guys think?

 

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