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Posted

I am again looking for your masterful know how . I am rebuilding my Dana 44 , I was thinking of a couple of set ups .

 

Here is the one I leaning to . A trac-lock rear for my 44 and an ARB true lock in the front .

 

I have had a couple of friends tell me they love their track-lock in the rear , but fully lock the front , with selectable air lock .

 

After going through some options , I like that idea . Plus its allot cheaper to rebuild my rear 44 that way .

 

Now the front . Pete says never invest in a Dana 35 , however what options do I have ? I am completely rebuilding my Dana 30 ,

mostly to match the gearing on my 44 . I want the front axle width to be stock , I have seen a couple of guys put a 44 in the front,

but the front axle sticks out further than stock . :dunno:

 

I don't like that look . I want my truck to look like the factory built it that way .

 

Please , all comments welcome ! Just remember I am mr :dunce:

Posted
When you finish putting it back together be sure and wrap duct tape around the cover so it don't leak, or fall off. :brows:

 

Do they make 100 mile an hour tape in, CHROME ? :rotf:

Posted

waste of money buying the crap-lok. they are the suck offroad. i got a full detroit and never looked back. up front I'm running the lock-right and have liked it so far. a good cheap locker that is not noticeable on road.

Posted
I like my Detroit in the rear. But why not just go with ARB front and rear?

 

I would love to , but just the ARB true-lock itself not including the air tank and compressor is about 800.00 :ack:

 

Not including labor to press my bearings or a new axle shaft witch is all together is quoted at just over 2000.00

per axle . :ack: :help: :doh: :wall: :drool: :(

 

waste of money buying the crap-lok. they are the suck offroad. i got a full detroit and never looked back. up front I'm running the lock-right and have liked it so far. a good cheap locker that is not noticeable on road.

 

I'll try that ! Most of the guys who have track-lock have XJ's , never met a guy with an MJ that didn't just weld the axle . :ack:

Not a whole lot around here to look at and get opinions .

 

Thanks guys for your opinions . :thumbsup:

Posted

Consider a TrueTrac for the rear. It's a gear-driven limited slip. Costs just a bit more than a Trac-Lok, but doesn't require any special friction modifier additive and works much better.

Posted

I would love to , but just the ARB true-lock itself not including the air tank and compressor is about 800.00 :ack:

 

Not including labor to press my bearings or a new axle shaft witch is all together is quoted at just over 2000.00

per axle . :ack: :help: :doh: :wall: :drool: :(

 

 

Shop around, I just got an ARB online for $700 shipped, brand new, and the shop I went to wanted $200 for labor to install and setup the gears. My buddy went to the same place, he paid about $2250 for front and rear ARB's and 4.56's gears including parts and labor.

Posted

Yes, if you're not in a huge hurry, take your time and shop around. I found a brand new Dana 44 33-spline Detroit for $230 on one of the Jeep forums. Then I got some 33-spline alloy shafts from my buddy at Alloy USA for $200.

 

There are deals to be found, especially now with so many people hard up for money.

Posted

Thanks Eagle , I'll check it out !

 

Thanks Johnnyc and blue XJ , will be looking around , I am going to fully lock the front though . :chillin:

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