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Heater core clogged...bad


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So since it is cold out (averaging 31*F highs) I would really like to have heat in my truck on the way to work. And on the way back home from a loong day out in the cold. Anyways, PO didn't take care of cooling system properly, so rust build up was BAAD! I flushed the system out last summer, so that's all good, but it seems the heater core wasn't flushed. I went to fix this problem today, only to have the vacuum actuated valve thingy, that flows coolant to the heater core, break off. Looked inside and the whole assembly was plugged with rust... and the line to the heater core is stiff from rust build up too :eek: I now have done away with that valve and replaced the metal tee with a new plastic one, and replaced the hoses with new. Engine runs smoother and flows coolant MUCH BETTER now! I really would rather not remove the heater core and replace with a new one, cuz that would take a while to order a new one and switch it out. Plus, I'm very limited on funds :fs1: Our garden hoses around here are out of comission for a while due to the cold temps, so is there a way to manually pump water through the core to clean it out? Or will it just be better to bight the bullet and buy a new core when I have more money? I'm trying to come up with a system to do it, but can't tap into my genius at the moment I guess. Thanks again for everybody who contributes to this site! I've been able to log on and usually have my questions answered before I start a project! :clapping:

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Cool beans dudes/dudettes! So there might still be hope for the core I have, eh...? :brows: I still need to find a way to somehow pump water into the core to flush it, or find a friend who doesn't have frozen water spickets. But, once I can clean it out I shall repost with results! And Jakeman17, do you know what AUTOMAN gave you? Was it a tool or a cleaning supply? I'm wondering if it's really bad if maybe some Drano would be ok to use, as long as I flush that all out really well afterwards. Thanks again for all the help! Yall were fast, too :thumbsup:

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The heater core on my '88 XJ let go last year and soaked the carpet with coolant. It was a slow leak and I didn't pick up on it until stains started showing up in the carpet on the tranny tunnel and passenger footwell. Since I have floor mats and mostly I'm alone in the Jeep, the stains were definitely not from passengers' feet.

 

My recommendation is to bite the bullet and replace the core now. If you flush it, you may get heat for a week or three, but if there's that much rust and gunk in there, once you get coolant flowing again (if you can) it's going to find a way out.

 

FWIW, my heater core was flowing and had been flushed twice, when the radiator was replaced. They just don't last forever -- that's why there are replacements.

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up here in canadia we some stuff called CLR .. i'm sure you guys have it too or something similar .. calcium, lime and rust remover http://www.live-the-organic-life.com/calcium-lime-rust-remover.html

 

remove the heater hoses at the engine block and drain all you can .. put a funnel in one end and raise them both up higher than the heater core .. fill the funnel up with CLR .. walk away .. lower the hoses and drain into a bucket, don't worry it doesn't freeze .. repeat on the other side .. i take a rag and block the hose a bit and blow some air through to help get the crud out .. works a treat

 

ive done this operation 20 or 30 times and had great success .. one time i had to do it twice on a really badly neglected vehicle .. hope this helps buddy

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Ha ha ha I knew somebody out there had my answer! I love CLR!!! Have a couple jugs on hand always at my house. I can't believe I didn't think of that stuff earlier... :doh: So that should be my temporary solution till next paycheck, and then a new core is going in. Man, these antibiotics must be gettin to the smart part of my head... I've done stupid stuff all day. Thanks again everyone for your input and knowledge! Tomorrow might be a better day, one with some heat :cheers:

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it was like a fire extinguisher. you filled it with water puts nozzle on and the added compressed air. pulled trigger and it shot the water out

 

It is a fire extinguisher. Its a water can. It just uses compressed air over water for a charge. I would reccommend everyone have one in their garage when working on a truck. Very convienient, free to recharge, and damn effective.

 

Plus, it makes a good tool to power flush a heater core in a pinch. ;)

Rob L.

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it was like a fire extinguisher. you filled it with water puts nozzle on and the added compressed air. pulled trigger and it shot the water out

 

It is a fire extinguisher. Its a water can. It just uses compressed air over water for a charge. I would reccommend everyone have one in their garage when working on a truck. Very convienient, free to recharge, and damn effective.

 

Plus, it makes a good tool to power flush a heater core in a pinch. ;)

Rob L.

I agree!

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What's that portable bomb pressurized to? I think I would be a bit afraid to use that to try blowing out a clogged heater core. The cooling system typically runs at 13 psi to 17 psi (depending on what you use for a radiator cap -- I have no idea what the plastic cap on the closed system holds, but it's in that range). I use a 17 pound cap on my closed system conversion surge tank, and that was plenty of pressure to cause my heater core to leak. If you blow 50 or 100 or more psi at a clogged heater core -- I don't think you're going to have a heater core when you get finished.

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Just an update. New heater core is in. Old one was flushed and worked ok for the time being. New one is waaaaaay warmer. Woo hoo! People should not be afrais of changing out the heater core like I was. took about 2 hours, but I did a bang-up job cleaning stuff up while I was under there :thumbsup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

What pieces and parts of the dash did you have to remove to get to the heater core?

 

I'm having the same issue you have with some very very weak heat. I'm going to try to see what I can do with diving into this problem today on the engine bay side, haven't had the chance to so far so I don't really know what I am in for...

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Well, I was able to get to the heater core and push some water through it and it seemed to flow just fine. I had a little bit of gunk come out from both sides and the water had a hint of brown tint to it but nothing that I would think that it was clogged up from...

 

So I'm thinking now that the problem I am facing has something to do with the actuation of the heater control valve or it could be the valve itself... From what I can see it seems that the valve is actuated by vacuum? Are there any common spots to check this vacuum out at for leaking under the dash? Anyone else been here before?

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Got it figured out with the low/no heat - I was a little too low on coolant to start with. Soon as I got it up to level it started kicking heat out again.

 

Still puzzled though as to why the water valve doesn't close. I tried it on every setting I've got AND with the control interior lever shoved over to the cool side - apparently thats when it is supposed to close...no biggie I guess. I've got my heat back now. :clapping:

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  • 9 months later...
People should not be afrais of changing out the heater core like I was. took about 2 hours, but I did a bang-up job cleaning stuff up while I was under there :thumbsup:

Can anybody elaborate on how difficult it is to install a new heater core? Mine is an '89.

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i wouldn't worry about the $$ side of things, a new heater core is ~40 bucks... i'd think you can justify having heat rather than wasting half a day getting soaked in the freezing cold weather.

 

that or take the 40 bucks, buy 3 cases of beer and just drink and drive :dunce: ... at least you'll be warm. :cheers:

 

(disclaimer: i am KIDDING)

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