88pioneer Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I've searched the forum pretty extensively to see if anyone had a good source for replacement floor pans. I've looked at quadratecs xj floor pans but was wondering if anyone knew of anything cheaper. I only need the driver side so 90 bucks isn't too bad but every penny counts. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 there were some on ebay for awhile, @$45 each side. also, check here also.... http://www.shermanparts.com/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I used three strips of flat sheetmetal on one side, and a cut out floor from an XJ on the other. The '3 strips' side came out way nicer. 1 strip, with a 90* bend on one side <----- goes from the 'frame' to the rocker 1 flat, kinda wide strip <---------- goes from the driveshaft tunnel, to the 'frame' 1 thin strip <--------- goes on top of the 'frame' capping it off, and connecting the two other pieces. I'll try to pull up a pic later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 here's a link to the guy on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 ^^^^ Thats where i got mine from, they took some custom fitting but they were pretty decent for the price :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 jpnjim what thickness of steel did you use, 1/8 in 1/4 in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 jpnjim what thickness of steel did you use, 1/8 in 1/4 in? 1/4 in would be some big motha floor pans. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 sometimes 1/4" may seem more prudent than overkill... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 sometimes 1/4" may seem more prudent than overkill... :eek: :eek: :eek: Makes you wonder what eventually stopped that log :eek: :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 I was gonna put up those pics, but decided I was too lazy to hunt them down. Might wanna go 3/8".. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 jpnjim what thickness of steel did you use, 1/8 in 1/4 in? Thinner than that, I'm thinking 16 to 18 gauge. Really tough to cut with tin snips, but still workable. The cutout was for a doubler that I decided against later. Donor floor used for the drivers side: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggwheels Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 just ordered them , i will let you know what they work out like . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Also, since these pretty much go hand in hand i have three seat studs that need to be replaced due to seized nuts and one that just rusted away, after i grind these down i was looking for people who have had this problem and what they did to resolve it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggwheels Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Also, since these pretty much go hand in hand i have three seat studs that need to be replaced due to seized nuts and one that just rusted away, after i grind these down i was looking for people who have had this problem and what they did to resolve it i had to replace all my seat studs on my 88 Comanche and i just grinded them down drilled them out , and went to the hardware store and got some grade 8 bolts slightly larger in diameter with washers to fit , used nylon lock nuts and bolted them in (washers on both sides . stronger then stock i guarantee it !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 I was thinking about doing the same thing, did you drill all the way through the floors and then run the bolts through the bottom? That was how i was thinking if doing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I did the same thing. Drilled them out, ran bolts up from the bottom, washers on both sides, nylon stop nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Also, since these pretty much go hand in hand i have three seat studs that need to be replaced due to seized nuts and one that just rusted away, after i grind these down i was looking for people who have had this problem and what they did to resolve it The cross braces in my pics (welded to the floors) are for late model XJ seats. They take care of the ft two mounts (& are stronger than stock MJ mounts, to take the impact of the airbags deploying), for the rear, I drilled two holes in the floor, & used large fender washers on the backside to keep them from pulling through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Sounds like a plan, i'll just run the bolts up from the bottom and be done with it. thanks for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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