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Fixed timing! It starts and drives! Still leaks oil.


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I figured that before anyone said anything about me changing the chain and maybe screwing that up... just checked it. It's fine. Since #1 is hard to get to (AC), I pulled the #3 plug, and with the rotor point right at #3 on the cap, #3 cylinder was all the way up.

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Ideally you'd be checking at the #1 cylinder, but either way -- it's a 4-stroke engine. Each piston comes up twice for each cycle, once for compression (and firing) and then again for exhaust. Did you have the distributor out? Are you sure the piston wasn't at TDC on the exhaust stroke when the distributor was pointing at it?

 

Are you certain you have the wires in the correct order? I've messed tat up a few times. 1-5-3-6-2-4 I believe is the correct order.

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Nope, didn't pull the distributor. Only way that could be off is if I somehow screwed up the timing chain when I replaced it, and even if I did somehow mess that up, there's no way it's 180 off.

 

Yup, wires are in the right order. I've got my 4.0 MJ sitting right next to it for jumping purposes, and the wires are all matched up.

 

The cap is ok... but not the greatest.

 

Old motor had new plugs, not the best dist cap

New motor had crap plugs, brand new cap(that I somehow didn't get with the motor.

 

So now I'm thinking maybe some combination is making it not run. I put my new plugs in, and I'm trying to find an open parts store for the cap.

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Little update... still not starting

 

I put my good plugs in, but still wouldn't fire.

 

Once my help arrived, I had him crank it while I grounded out a spark plug to the body. Right from the coil I get spark, and from the distributor I get spark.

 

Either there's a grounding issue to it doesn't fire while in the motor, or I did screw up the timing when I changed the chain.

 

Tomorrow is a parts run. I'm getting new battery cables, connectors, cap, rotor, and plug wires, and a new grounding strap for running from a head bolt to the firewall. If it still doesn't work, I'm gonna have to find a way to see if the Cam's off a tooth.

 

can you swap the coils between trucks to check that?

 

Don't have the coil from the donor truck, and of course I sold my spare Renix ones a few weeks ago.

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It looks like the sensor rubbed on the phonic wheel. Is this the case? If so, you may want to pull you're transmission & inspect it for damage. I've had some experience with this on helicopter engines, it always caused problems...

 

 

BTW, I grew up in Macks Creek ;)

 

I think I could pull the starter and check it for damage through there. I really, really, really, REALLY don't wanna yank the trans.

 

Never been to Mack's Creek, but it looks like it's only about half an hour from where I'll be moving to.

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So pull a spark plug, and (using some insulated pliers) hold the electrode or base against the block somewhere and have your helper crank the engine over. There should be a nice, fat spark at the sparkplug electrode.

 

Did I mention to use insulated pliers? USE INSULATED PLIERS.

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This is my helper for times like this :brows:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=35448

 

If you replace the timing chain, and didn't turn the crank or cam shaft in the process, then the timing should be set as it was. It is "best" to use #1 cyl for TDC, and I know, the AC pump is in the way, but a little prob helps that problem (a small wooden dowel) Just make sure it's on the compression stroke.

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Ok, replaced all that crap and still no start.

 

Is there any way a vacuum problem could cause this? Like, at all?

 

Also, could use a definitive way to check the timing to know if it's off. Not something I want to tear apart just to find out that it's all ok.

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Checked the fuel pressure for the hell of it and it read 40 psi while cranking.

 

Injectors are definitely opening, since the plugs were covered in gas when I changed them.

 

When I checked the timing before, it seemed fine. I'll have to figure out some way to be SURE the piston is at TDC and see where the rotor's at.

 

I'm at a loss. If the timing's fine, there's no reason this thing shouldn't run. I'm stealing one of my mom's cars to go down to MO, so I'll have to figure out this crap when I get back.

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ok, if you have gas and at the right pressure, and spark, either the timing is off, or you have bad compression. you can flip the distributor 180 and try it. did the motor run before? i've seen 4.0's run actually pretty well on 40-60 psi of compression, which is obviously a toasted motor.

 

i say rotate the distributor, and then check compression.

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Yes, I saw the motor run before I helped pull it and bought it.

 

I don't think flipping the dist would help at all. I never pulled it out, and if the timing's off it's gonna be off by a tooth or two. I need one of those fancy $5,000 fiber optic camera thingers.

 

However, I will check the compression. Suppose it couldn't hurt to at least see what that's at.

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If you have a vacuum leak, it should start, but run rough........and I'm sure you know that :roll:

 

But........if the EGR valve is bad, that may "choke" out the engine, pull the vac line to the EGR and plug it, and see if that makes a difference :dunno:

 

Is this the same engine you were asking about using a new timing chain, and the old sprockets???

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