Optima battery

[SuperWade2]

I had an Optima Blue top in my TJ that barely made it 3 years...would charge and then not hold it very long...messed with it for like 3 weeks and gave up.

 

won't buy another one most likely... I replaced with a Die Hard Platnium P4 which is made by Odyssey... Not had very long, but at least it holds a charge.

 

Wade

The Blue Tops are not made to be in a vehicle, therefore they will not last. The Blue Top is a Marine battery, not intended to be on a constant charge from an alternator, as that actually cuts the life short. Red Top and Yellow Top are for verhicular use :thumbsup: .

 

I agree with Don, this is one of those subjective topics that can only end in the original poster having to sort throught the never ending opinions to arrive at his own. I will also agree that the average vehicle that does not have extra equipment on it like a winch, offroad lights, etc. will have a hard time justifying the cost other than the longer life. Average lead/acid battery life is 3 years here in Florida, regardless of which one you buy, so the gell cell is definitley worth it, as they will last at least 6-7 years--possibly more. :cheers:

I got different information from an Optima rep and engineer regarding the Blue top, but since its gone, it's not worth arguing about

[Sir Sam]

This is absolutely wrong--they outlast regular batteries by three times in most cases. Optimas are made to be run down and recharged many times. A regular battery will not take that kind of abuse. I have used optima batteries for many years, running them dead and recharging many times with no trouble. I recently replaced a Yellow Top that I have had for nearly 9 years...and it has been dead more times than I can remember. Like anything, there can be bad ones, but for the money, there is nothing better than a deep cycle battery...the Yellow Top in particular :thumbsup:

 

No that is absolutely wrong.

 

Myself and many others agree that optimas have an atrocious failure rate when they are discharged completely. They will not take the abuse that a regular battery will.

 

I have had the unfortunate displeasure of using optimas for many years, running them dead and then having to replace them. Not only that but the capacity decreased each time you run them dead, meaning sitting around camping at night with your radio on for just 30-40 mins will leave you with a dead battery in the morning.

 

Like anything there can be bad ones, guess it turns out thats been every single optima I have had to deal with.

 

I have a 3 year old optima here I am trying to figure out a way to scam a replacement on.

 

But for the money, nothing is better than going down to samsclub for a battery.

[A-man930]

Like anything else you have to know what you're looking for when you shop around.

 

-If you want massive cranking amps to turn over your hardcore high compression big block, you get a redtop.

 

-If you need a battery that will withstand multiple discharging (aka, deep cycling) from extended loads such as lights, winches, crawling on the starter, etc.. while still being an automotive battery that provides high cranking amperage, then you get a yellowtop.

 

THE REDTOP IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE DEEP CYCLED. If you keep going through them, perhaps you should read what they're intended to do...

 

regular lead-acid batteries work fine, but the AGM spiral cells utilized in Optimas and others (someone earlier was thinking of NAPA's Orbital series...) ARE superior in every way. Learn how a battery actually works and you'll see why.

[A-man930]

But for the money, nothing is better than going down to samsclub for a battery.

btw, you should see all the trouble Exide (walmart's supplier) has been having with their batteries... Hence our NAPA's switched to East Penn (interstate)... I would steer clear.

[CWLONGSHOT]

Guys, talking in these absolutes are bound for arguments.

 

I have already posted up my experiences with Optimas.

 

I would like to clean up some of the untruths mentioned previously.

 

 

A Optima is NOT a gel cell battery. It is a SPIRAL CELL. It's a dry cell, so cannot spill. http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/

 

The RED top is designed as an improved version of most pother conventional car batteries. High vibration resistance and able to be mounted at odd angles or even on its side.

 

The YELLOW top is a deep cycle battery. Specifically designed to be run down and charged up. Excellent for winch applications. Passable in starting applications.

 

In my experience, I personally have recharged my wife's RED top 8-10 times In the past 3-4 years. Mostly because my wife likes to leave the lights on. At least twice that many times exturnal recharging was not necessary and the Jeep started and the charging system recharged the battery without incident. Again, its not what its designed for, but has worked perfecty.

 

Something else, seems it's human nature to blame the product. Its never the owners fault. To make matters worse, many people feel its not even their responsibility and our society today further perpetuates this "liberal" mind set. If your battery keeps going dead, you have a draw on it. Wehe battery doesn't have an endless supply of power, its going to become discharged. If left in this situation, with a constant draw will destroy a battery. Regardless if it cost you 50 or 500 bucks. Trouble here as I see it is 50 bucks is OK to loose, but 500 is cause for alarm. BOTH occurred by no fault of the battery. But because the Optima costs more, its at fault, not the short. By weeding thru all the "opinions", you will find your truth. If they where such garbage, they wouldn't be selling so batteries. Prices are going UP not down so SOMEONE likes them SOMEONE is buying them!

 

I like them and I will continue to put them under my hood. Sorry for the rant, reading some of the stuff in this thread just pushes my buttons.

 

CW

[johnnyc]

I used to run a Yellow Top. But my buddy fried it when he used it to do some trail side welding on the Rubicon Trail. :(

 

Switched to a Red Top that worked great for a couple of years. Then I installed a York OBA system, which required me to move the battery to the other side of the engine compartment. I also had to mount the battery on its side to clear the hood which, according to Optima, is perfectly fine.

 

Well, whatever they use, gel or not, started to leak out slowly. I yanked it out and replaced it with an Odyssey 1200, which I got for $50 (special deal).

 

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Optima in the future. I just wouldn't mount it on its side. ;)

[Pete M]

Interesting. :eek: Was it close to a heat source?

[HellCreek]

I carried the red top Optima from my Bronco to AutoZone today. It had a bad cell and was out of warranty (3 years free replacement) (I bought it in 2005). I traded it in on a Gold top AutoZone battery which also has a 3 year free replacement plus 5 years prorated warranty. It was half the cost of the Optima.

 

I know some just love their Optimas because you can turn them upside down without leaking, but I like my vehicles sitting on the tires, so it doesn't really matter. Did I mention it was 1/2 the cost?

 

-Tom

[Automan2164]

Screw all of this full price noise. I get the blemish batteries from our interstate guy at work. $27 bucks. No matter what size. :brows: Its great. All they are is a naked interstate battery, re-furbed, with a 30 day warranty(but its a friggen interstate). So you get the same quality, just a used case with new intenals, for a flat fee. And because we are good with the interstate guy, if we have problems with them after warranty, he replaces my blems for nothing. ;)

 

If you must get a dry cell / gel cell, the parts store have knock-offs that are just as good. But look under the hood of any of my cars, and you will see a green-topped battery with no stickers, fresh from the reject pile. :D

 

Rob L. :cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

I know some just love their Optimas because you can turn them upside down without leaking, but I like my vehicles sitting on the tires, so it doesn't really matter. Did I mention it was 1/2 the cost? -Tom

 

:agree: . I'm not a big fan of AutismZone, but am a big fan of their higher end batteries. Now you can take the $$ you saved by not buying an overpriced Optima batt and splurge on something you'd really like for your MJ but don't really need. :D 'Cause you know that Duralast yellow top will last at least five years; all four I have bought for my other vehicles lasted at least that long. For spillage worries inherent w. lead/acid batteries, the Duralast yellow tops come with an overflow hose attachment which I always extend down thru the battery tray should your alternator regulator crap out and the alt starts overcharging and boiling out the electrolyte, which has not happened yet. :D BTW Tom, did you get the Group 34 Duralast?

[HellCreek]

BTW Tom, did you get the Group 34 Duralast?

 

This was for a 1986 Bronco, not my '89 Comanche, so I got a group 24F.

[Pete M]

Screw all of this full price noise. I get the blemish batteries from our interstate guy at work. $27 bucks.

Rob L. :cheers:

 

 

Amen to that. The redtop blem in my minivan was like $60. :thumbsup: (some of us don't have the internal connections like Rob and apparently get robbed :D )

[DirtyComanche]

I get my blems for $100 cnd. Other than they aren't actually blems, just returns that have no issues. Guess it's not a bad deal, seeing as it is about $50 cheaper than the cheapest lead/acid craptacular battery would be. And I don't have to pay the damn $10 battery eco-fee that way. So, $60 less than a battery that will leak everywhere and cause corrosion all over my engine bay. I can live with that.

[HOrnbrod]

I don't think it's the lead/acid craptacular battery that's the primary cause of corrosion all over your engine bay up there Dirt-man. :D However if you can get a blem Optima or comparible at that price that's cool.