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3inch llift question


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Well it will definitely give you more ground clearance, and the biggest tire I think you can run without any rubbnig are 31's. If you trim the fenders a bit you might be able to put 32's with minor rubbing.

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why do peep say that the 31's are same as 235's?

 

Who says that? 265 should be around 31's. I swear i got a 1.5" on my truck(dad put it on sure he would know) but i got 31x10.5 on a 15x8 rim and they only rub under alot of articulation, mostly the rear for some reason.

 

Look up tire charts, I'm sure the last time i checked it was 265 that was around a 31. 285 is 33 and 305 is 35. But hey that was last year maybe they changed measurements.

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Most 31" tires measure just a hair over 30", 235/75 15 measures right around 29", so no, they are not equal.

 

A 235/75 15 is pretty close to 30x9.50. 31s aren't a lot bigger, but it makes a difference. Most 31s are also an inch wider at 10.50.

 

A 31x10.50 is a good fit for a 3" lift. If you take it off road you may have to get rims with a little less backspacing to keep the tires out of the inside wall of the rear fender well under flex, or (people will probably jump on me for saying this) get a 1.25" or 1.5" wheel spacer for the rear. Good quality hub centric spacers aren't cheap, though.

 

There might be some rubbing on the lower control arms under full lock steering. Grand Cherokee control arms are curved and might eliminate or at least minimize it. So will less backspacing, but then there might be fender contact.

 

What metric tire size is equal to what flotation size is not as simple as looking at the first number. The first number on metric tires is the width in millimeters. To get the diameter you also need the aspect ratio (second number, in percent) and the rim size (third number, in inches.)

 

Here's a pretty close comparison chart, these are not exact:

235/75R15 -> 30x9.50

 

245/75R16 -> 31x9.50

265/70R16 -> 31x10.50

265/75R16 -> 32x10.50

285/75R16 -> 33x11.50

305/75R16 -> 34x12.50

 

And a 3" lift will make quite a difference, but with the long wheelbase, I would suggest rocker guards. Trust me. I messed mine up before my lift, then messed them up more after lifting 4.5".

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Most 31" tires measure just a hair over 30", 235/75 15 measures right around 29", so no, they are not equal.

 

A 235/75 15 is pretty close to 30x9.50. 31s aren't a lot bigger, but it makes a difference. Most 31s are also an inch wider at 10.50.

 

A 31x10.50 is a good fit for a 3" lift. If you take it off road you may have to get rims with a little less backspacing to keep the tires out of the inside wall of the rear fender well under flex, or (people will probably jump on me for saying this) get a 1.25" or 1.5" wheel spacer for the rear. Good quality hub centric spacers aren't cheap, though.

 

There might be some rubbing on the lower control arms under full lock steering. Grand Cherokee control arms are curved and might eliminate or at least minimize it. So will less backspacing, but then there might be fender contact.

 

What metric tire size is equal to what flotation size is not as simple as looking at the first number. The first number on metric tires is the width in millimeters. To get the diameter you also need the aspect ratio (second number, in percent) and the rim size (third number, in inches.)

 

Here's a pretty close comparison chart, these are not exact:

235/75R15 -> 30x9.50

 

245/75R16 -> 31x9.50

265/70R16 -> 31x10.50

265/75R16 -> 32x10.50

285/75R16 -> 33x11.50

305/75R16 -> 34x12.50

 

And a 3" lift will make quite a difference, but with the long wheelbase, I would suggest rocker guards. Trust me. I messed mine up before my lift, then messed them up more after lifting 4.5".

 

Well there you go the tire guide right there. I still don't understand how they measure the dang things.

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For metric tires, take P235/75R15 for instance:

 

P means passenger tire, LT would be light truck. P is 4 ply equivalent, LT comes in load range C, D and E being 6, 8 or 10 ply respectively.

 

235 is the width of the tire in mm. 25.4mm equals 1 inch.

75 is the aspect ratio of the height of the tire as a percentage of the width. 75% in this case.

R means radial, a B here means Bias belted.

15 is the rim diameter in inches.

 

So the width is 235/25.4=9.25"

The height is 9.24X0.75=6.94"

and the diameter of the tire is 6.94+15+6.94=28.88"

28.88x9.25 is about equal to 29x9.50

But a 30x9.50 never measures 30 (always a bit smaller), so pretty much a 30x9.50

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even if i stick with 4.10 and 31X1050R15 tires will it suck or will i need spacers?? so is it worth getting bigger tires with a 3 inch

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

You can run 30x9.50-15 or 31x10.50-15 tires on a Comanche with NO lift. With a 2.5L engine and standard 4.10 gears, I would advise not going larger than 30" tires. I wheeled even a Cherokee (which has less rear wheel well clearance than an MJ) quite happily for several years on 30" tires with no lift. If you go with 30s and maybe a 2" lift, you'll be in good shape.

 

The important thing is to figure out what you want to accomplish, and then choose your setup to achieve that result. Don't start by deciding you "need" 'X' amount of lift and 'Y' size tires, and then asking IF that's going to work for you.

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well um i want to ruun 31s with the 4:10 universaly for mud, trail riding, little bit of everything not any hardcore rock crawling anyone have pics of a 3inch ifted comanche with 31s?? i ordered a 3inch and i want a idea how much clearance ill have with 31s on it also would you recommend spacers or rims with BS

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Does your 3" lift include bump stop extenders for the front? 31x10.50s on stock Jeep rims will stuff inside the stock sheet metal and flares. However, when the rear axle articulates, the inside shoulder of the high side tire will rub in the rear. If you run rims with less backspacing, then the front tires will NOT clear the sheet metal, and you'll have to either remove the flares and hack the fenders, or extend the bump stops and give up a lot of articulation. If you run spacers just on the rear, with Jeep rims, you solve the rubbing in the rear without creating problems in the front.

 

You will not be happy trying to run serious mud with 31s and a 4-cylinder. Mud needs enough horsepower to keep the wheels turning, and the 4-banger will just get bogged down with those tires. 4.10s are the right ratio for 31s with the 4.0L engine, but not with the 2.5L.

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i am running some 31x10.5x15 BFG ATs on 15x8 wrangler rims and i have a 2 inch front lift and a 2.5 rear lift. now people say that there tires rub olny in the rear thats probly because they have swaybars in and that would rob you of all your front flex. i run my 88 manche with out swaybars and it takes some time getting use to the sway part and stuff. but anyways my tires will rub under lots of flex i mean like flexed outttttttttttttttttttttt i think that you can run 31s no prob. :thumbsup:

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To me what size tires fit is almost a personal prefereance. Hre is a pic of Pong with no lift and 31x10.5

 

1158867417057109497S500x500Q85.jpg

 

If you don't mind cutting and bump stop properly I have seen 33's on 2" :hmm: Didnt have much flex.. but with bupstopping , and cutting it could be done.

 

1158869208057109497S500x500Q85.jpg

 

 

Here is a pic of a 89 xj I had with zero lift and 31x10.5

 

1169191343057109497S500x500Q85.jpg

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sounds to me like you want to do some offroading but nothing hardcore etc. as the true gurus have said, you should probably stay at 30" tires in relation to your gearing and having a 4cyl. bumpstops are what keep your axles and/or tires from stuffing all the way in to your fenderwells and possibly damaging the sheetmetal and other things. if you go 3", which you said you've already ordered the kit, and plan to wheel it you should get some extended bumpstops so at "full flex" the axle is actually stopped from stuffing further in the wheelwell and causing damage as noted above.

 

as for tires, you'd be suprised, in my opinion, the difference in size from a 235 metric to a 30" or 31". go to a tire store and stand 3 of them side by side. the 30" is not a dramatic difference over the 235, but IMO I was suprised how much bigger a 31" looked when standing beside a 30".

 

anyway, unless you plan on swapping in a 4.0 later, from what i've learned here and what you seem to want out of your truck, 2-3" of lift, 30" tires, and then start saving for the #1 modification on Pete's list: gears, gears, gears. The experts can tell you what is best to run, but if your truck is also your DD, 4.56's are probably the fair balance between wheeling and performance/MPG as a DD, maybe 4.88's actually. if it is just a wheeler you could probably go higher.

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