702_MJ Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 ok i replaced my u joints a few months ago. and in the double canard joint theres that strap that flexes inside, and there was needle bearings inside. A few fell out but i put it back together, probly a dumb idea, but do they sell new strap things in the canard joint. I hope you guys know what I'm talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 1st: don't ask for canard parts at the parts store. it's a double cardan shaft. bad idea to do it the way you did. yes, they do sell the parts BUT now you need to replace all of the ujoints you had previously put in. easiest solution, take it to a driveshaft shop and have them rebuild and rebalance it. it shouldn't cost more than $100 with all brand new greasable HIGH QUALITY ujoints and will last you another 100k miles at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 1st: don't ask for canard parts at the parts store. it's a double cardan shaft. So the strap thing thats in the middle is called a double cardan shaft? i know it needs to be rebalanced, it bottomed out on the dang head pipe way to many times, looks like a weight got shaved off. It was just a temporary fix, i heard this squeeking one day and i thought it was the brakes. so i did those but it wasnt that so i tracked it down to the shaft, replaced the u joints and it went away. It was just to get me to cali and on a boat to hawaii who knows how much it would cost to ship a drive shaft! Now that I'm here i want to fix it, just gotta find a decent shop to rebalance it. Hawaii sux for autoshops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 1st: don't ask for canard parts at the parts store. it's a double cardan shaft. So the strap thing thats in the middle is called a double cardan shaft? i know it needs to be rebalanced, it bottomed out on the dang head pipe way to many times, looks like a weight got shaved off. It was just a temporary fix, i heard this squeeking one day and i thought it was the brakes. so i did those but it wasnt that so i tracked it down to the shaft, replaced the u joints and it went away. It was just to get me to cali and on a boat to hawaii who knows how much it would cost to ship a drive shaft! Now that I'm here i want to fix it, just gotta find a decent shop to rebalance it. Hawaii sux for autoshops no, i have no idea what you're talking about when you talk about a strap being in there...there is no strap. there is no such thing as a canard. the entire universal joint assembly is called a Double Cardan. this is an exploded view of a double cardan. you have a different yoke flange than pictured, but it's completely the same concept. if you have any sort of strap in there...it's wrong. it doesn't belong in there and chances are the entire thing should just be replaced. you'll be best off having someone from central states send you a shaft that's in good working order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 ok ill go take a pic of it when i get a chance. But its not a strap per say its just something that holds a u joint and it helps the joint articulate and spin at the same time. Its suppose to be there, why would i take it apart and then put something in that wasnt there before. And my bad if i spell it wrong, i knew it had those letters in it though. Not a drive shaft literature expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 ok ill go take a pic of it when i get a chance. But its not a strap per say its just something that holds a u joint and it helps the joint articulate and spin at the same time. Its suppose to be there, why would i take it apart and then put something in that wasnt there before. And my bad if i spell it wrong, i knew it had those letters in it though. Not a drive shaft literature expert. lol, I'm not trying to be a jerk or ride your @$$ on spelling mistakes. just making sure that when you do get the parts you get the right parts faster so the parts guys aren't scratching their heads about what a canard is (hell, they probably won't even know what a cardan is!) there are no straps in there. there's the main shell which is the coupling yoke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 mechanics in hawaii probly barely know how to read, they scratch their head when you go to checkers asking if they have H4 bulbs...... ill take a pic when it stops raining, grounds kinda soaking wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck and quacks like a duck, then it probably is a canard. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 is a canard really a duck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 In france it is. Canard is a french word for duck. :thumbsup: A canard is also one of those little winglets on some planes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COLAB Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 yes i confirm it...i'm french...and u are right :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 In france it is. Canard is a french word for duck. :thumbsup: A canard is also one of those little winglets on some planes. :clapping: Pete got it......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 It's also a redneck term, I canardly hear ya. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Ok this is what I'm talking about. Image Not Found The needle bearings fell out of the ball. Image Not Found Image Not Found Not my pictures, havent taken it apart yet just doin research. But its the constant velocity joint, any body knows where to get any of these parts new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 NAPA will probably have the parts. A Jeep dealer will either have them or be able to get them. Having doe the job a couple of time, I agree with Pat's advice. The centering ball parts are not cheap, and they are a nuisance. I'd strongly recommend taking it to a driveshaft shop and letting them do it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 That is called a "CV Centering Yoke" :thumbsup: I understood what you were talking about the minute you said the word "strap"... Don't let these guys be too rough on you :clapping: I just did this job on my front driveshaft not two weeks ago (my rear has been converted to an SYE kit as of last year and I did that one then too). I got my parts from http://www.Dennysdriveshaft.com. If you use greasable U-Joints (I did) you will need to get your hands on some "Flush Mount Grease Fittings" for them. Standard fittings won't work with the yoke on the T-Case because of low clearance issues. You'll need a needle adapter for your grease gun for these as well... I ordered mine from Grainger.com http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5PU59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Thanks, i appreciate it. Might look into a shop anyway, just to get a quote. I would rather do it myself, kinda so when something screws up i can kick my self in the butt and not go trying to deal with companies and all their policies. When i had a 2.5" headpipe put on the truck is still low enough and so close to the shaft, it nicked off the zerk fitting, and shaved a little off the weight. So just gonna see if theres a good one in hawaii. If not then I'm gonna probly go the route you took $500 MJ. But what about those "gold seal u joints" by tom woods drive shaft. The grease fitting is on the top of one of the caps for the joint. http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 I've only heard a bit about them and saw what is posted on the Tom Woods Website. I guess that they are supposed to be better than regular Spicer 153X joints. :dunno: I don't see what is so special about them other than you get a warranty with them. I am sure that they are a good product and perform as advertised. I am quite content with the Spicer joints though. They are a widely sold product and their quality of workmanship (as noted on Tom's website) is superior than ANY other joint on the market. If you get them, let us know what you think about them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 I was just thinking maybe them cuz you mentioned the clearance, and that I'm gonna need flush mount grease fittings. The greasable u joints have the zerk in the middle of an angle right so i was thinking about the gold seal cuz the zerk is on the top of a cap. So wouldnt be easier to get to and grease them? Thats what I'm thinking, if i end up getting them ill let you know. Well just started reading on their site and the 1310's only come with the cap zerk. LOL and i take it the 135X is their 1350 and its got the regular zerk on the body, so I'm just gonna go get some greasable ones from napa or something and go your route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellCreek Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 "But what about those "gold seal u joints" by tom woods drive shaft. The grease fitting is on the top of one of the caps for the joint." We have a Tom Wood's drive shaft in our CJ-7, and it is a great drive shaft. As for the Gold Seal u-joints, they are good, but really not much better than the ones you get at NAPA or AutoZone, and you don't have to wait for UPS to deliver the latter. By the way, i have the same Cardan joint in my '86 Bronco, and it is a PITA to repair, but it can be done at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Spicer joints are the best. I would hold off on buying any of the house brand ones from auto parts stores. Take your time and do it once rather than multiple times in the years to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 I was just thinking maybe them cuz you mentioned the clearance, and that I'm gonna need flush mount grease fittings. The greasable u joints have the zerk in the middle of an angle right so i was thinking about the gold seal cuz the zerk is on the top of a cap. So wouldnt be easier to get to and grease them? Thats what I'm thinking, if i end up getting them ill let you know. Well just started reading on their site and the 1310's only come with the cap zerk. LOL and i take it the 135X is their 1350 and its got the regular zerk on the body, so I'm just gonna go get some greasable ones from napa or something and go your route. I took it apart once i thought maybe just buy the part and put it back together with new u joints and done. Is there more to it than that :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 No - not really. I don't understand why people here consider it a difficult task. They might be referring to balancing it once its all done. I've never done that - just popped in the new parts and said its good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 That is called a "CV Centering Yoke" :thumbsup: I understood what you were talking about the minute you said the word "strap"... Don't let these guys be too rough on you :clapping: I just did this job on my front driveshaft not two weeks ago (my rear has been converted to an SYE kit as of last year and I did that one then too). I got my parts from http://www.Dennysdriveshaft.com. If you use greasable U-Joints (I did) you will need to get your hands on some "Flush Mount Grease Fittings" for them. Standard fittings won't work with the yoke on the T-Case because of low clearance issues. You'll need a needle adapter for your grease gun for these as well... I ordered mine from Grainger.com http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5PU59 He has a double cardan joint. A CV joint stands for constant velocity joint. He has a double cardan joint. A FWD car uses CV joint enclosed by a a convoluted boot. Many people use these words interchangeably which is incorrect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 No - not really. I don't understand why people here consider it a difficult task. They might be referring to balancing it once its all done. I've never done that - just popped in the new parts and said its good to go. Thats what i did. the first time, ill look into having it balanced. But other than that I'm just gonna take it apart and throw it back together. Well TNT what is it called then? Cuz all over the internet its called Center something...... I would like to order the part and not have the guys at the parts store scratching his head like he thinks I'm crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now