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MJ#2 build w/leafs...NEW PICS


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about a foot or so from the end of the front of the unibody..Had to notch the one on the driverside to accomadate for the steerin box bolts..It should be plenty stout as it sits but i think i might add some more beef for the times i launch it.

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The weakest part in the entire uniframe is the point between the steering box and the track bar mount. Make sure that it is extra super beefy. It was never designed to have the suspension mounted forward of the engine.

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Looks like a good start. :yes:

 

I think I'm just do leafs on mine since it will mainly be my winter beater/snowplow rig now. I have a HP44 and a 9" rear axle already. I will be using springs with military wraps at both eyes. It will also have a bobbed, dove tailed flatbed that might also be a dump bed.

 

In this picture is your rigs full weight on the suspension?

 

If so the shackle angle is too steep which causes a poor ride, limits droop and can cause the spring to invert or kickback so the shackle swings up instead of forward bending the spring.

 

The shackle should be at about 45 degree angle at ride height. The frame shackle mounts should be moved back to correct the angle so it looks like this \ . If it doesn't have weight on it make sure the angle is correct under load.

 

You also might want to use some anti kickback shackles just to protect the springs also.

 

Military wrap springs with wraps at both eyes do a great job of extending and protecting the spring so they will last longer.

 

With 42" tires you should probably rework the front of the inner wheelwell to allow more clearance and up travel when stuffed. You will need to relocate the battery, use a cone style air filter set-up and probably move a few other parts.

 

Here are a few pictures of what I did with the inner fender.

 

Stock picture of the inner fender.

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The start of the inner fender.

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From the side looking down under the hood.

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Under fender view closer showing more progress.

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Here is a view with the raised flare showing the rear inner fender seam folded outward as much as possible. It will also get a inner fender liner.

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I even filled the gap at the bodyline on the flare. Some weld in rockrails will eliminate the gap below the flare.

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I will be tapering the front of the flare and the front of the fenders to gain 2 more inches of clearance. I have cut some of the header panel for more clearance too.

 

My frame will be plated on the inside, outside, bottom and top to the firewall, from there back the inside, outside and bottom of the frame will be plated. The plating will be done using 1/8"steel plate and 1/4" steel plate by the steering gear.

 

Hopefully this will help you out some and give you a few new ideas.

 

:cheers:

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blazer i understand the sarcasm..I was simply trying to make a point..But if I listen to all the :smart: that tell me what i can and can't do i would never build a truck and simply go play golf..I understand the only way to run tires this big is to get Rockwells :shake: however I run with three other guys two that run 60/44 combos and one is 14/44..all on 44's..yes we break sometimes but usually only after drinkin liquid stupidity :dunce: ..Its all in what your gonna do with it and how ya drive it..not to mention going big enough on the axles to "handle" 42's creates a whole snoball effect..Its gonna find the weekest link..so next is drivelines, transmissions, transfer cases, etc..personally id rather break axles.. image_209027.gif

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I agree with ya their I ran 44's on a chev with d44's front and rear for over 2 years on the road and on the trail.. I did loss 3 axles over that time but big deal. you can do that with 33's or even 31's. its all in the way you drive it.

looking good keep us posted on the build... I can't wait to see some trail pic's..

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not to mention going big enough on the axles to "handle" 42's creates a whole snoball effect..Its gonna find the weekest link..so next is drivelines, transmissions, transfer cases, etc..personally id rather break axles.. image_209027.gif

 

I agree totally. :cheers:

 

I said the same thing about having a weak link in the drivetrain for durability and people laughed at me? :nuts:

 

This happened right after I blew a CV joint in the WJ and someone suggested a U-Joint conversion kit. :shake:

 

I would sooner bust a shaft than blow a ring and pinion, or a transfer case.

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Ohh man wtf!! You totally just ruined my laptop by making me drool all over it :fs1: :bowdown: You my friend know how to step outside of this comanche box that most of the others are in. I can't wait to see this one done and hell as long as its built right screw what others say.

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  • 9 months later...

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