Pollockzrodz

Hey guys long time no posts I just recently bought another mj project soon to be a full build thread haha. It has the ax15 2wd 5spd trans and I was wondering if this trans could be made into a 4wd ax15 trans since they arent that easy to find around my way cheap. If it can what needs to be done and what parts do I need?? I was thinking the rear tailhousing off of a 4wd trans but does the output shaft need to be swapped also? has anyone done this please let me know I honestly havent even looked at an ax15 in along time since Ive been doing chevys latly so I don't know what this would require. thanks alot!

No Way did I reuse that crappy carpet haha. I just leave the floor bedliner because I want to be able to wash it out easily when the truck gets muddy

What bushings are you exactly looking for?? You can just call up rock krawler and ask them. There should be a part number on the inside of the bushings for you to go by. I know for a fact that they sell bushings so I'm sure they have what you need

Well atleast thats not a bad accident. All you need is a fender and a spray. I would just get a price on a cheap fender from ebay or somewhere online for around $100 then tell the guy that you want $400 and you can just throw the fender on sparypaint it red and invest the extra cash into your MJ. Thats what I would do if you don't want to go through insurance companies. I wouldnt trust "His friend" to fix it because your just asking for trouble. Expect that exact fender hammered out filled with bondo and sprayed a red he had sitting around haha. here's a link to some miata fenders http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkwZma ... ZQQ_sopZ12

HAHAHA If the truck is cheap I say buy it just because motors come and go But comanches are getting harder to find cheap! :yes: Ive got an 86 Manche with the v6. Its got 148,000 on it. It idles like crap leaks every fluid it can and the y-pipe has a crack in it so its noisy. I treat the truck like crap! I mean I have my foot to the floor from Point A to Point B still under 45mph :headpop: . I bought it with 145,000 and Have yet to change the oil because it leaks enough to where When I top it off its all fresh oil :rotf: The motor is the worst on gas even when you don't have your foot into it. I have proof of 2 rebuilds on this motor with the book of paper work the fella I bought it from gave me. I don't really care if it blows up tomorrow even though it is my daily driver :yes: Because the sooner it blows the sooner the v8 gets stuffed in there.

Wow I totally spaced on the backspacing/Wheel thing haha. Thanks alot for the picture Pete it deffiently sums up all of my questions haha. Now I gotta go out and buy them there fancy axles :brows: haha.

Yea I need it to be anyways I'm runnin a sbc with a turbo350 trans so and my driveshaft will be goin on the passenger side.

Hey guys I'm lookin at throwing a set of chevy full width axles in my mj from a 80s suburban. I don't have the axles yet so don't know the width so I was wondering if anyone on here has delt with these in an mj before? The axles are a dana 44 front and a 14bolt rear. Are they to wide like will there be 12" of extra stickin out on each side?? hahaha :rotfl2: The mj is soon to be sbc powered so the chevy axles are sorta needed at this point haha. Any info or thoughts??? thanks Alot -Jon

my god there is some work and money into that bad boy. thats a piece of art

Thanks for the good words. I sprayed the por15 in the tight spaces like inside the rails and I painted it with a brush on the easy to get to parts. Ive never put fiberglass in my por15. I really don't see a reason to???? Just would make the floor rougher hahaha. Theres many special ways you can inhance por15 but II usually just use it as is. The most ive ever done was thined it out.

This isnt my first circus ride guys haha been messing around with lifted trucks and hot rods for a while. Lots of good info guys thank you. I'm gunna be stuffing her with a v8 sbc :fs1: I know alot are not for this but its mine haha. Itll be getting a dana 44 front and a dana 60 rear. Tom woods shafts most likly. With the tire size I'm thinking from 38-40s :nuts: I will be making the unibody a little stronger lol. I'm just collecting parts as of right now and getting everything ready for the soon coming lift, since this truck is my daily driver right now. -Jon

OK thanks sorry I didnt clear it up I was meaning front springs. Pete I'm totally going to do the soa with say a 4" rear lift spring also and I was wondering what I could get for the front. Ok That helps Ill prolly go with the 8" SJ coil and a jks adj spacer, since I'm not a rustys fan. Thanks Jon

Hey guys I'm looking to do a big lift on my MJ and I was wondering who sells the tallest springs out there and where can I buy them? I know, I know, 6.5" Is tall enought but for me Ive owned plenty of jeeps with 6" lifts and Its just not big enough for me. If anyone has any info please let me know thanks Jon

Ohh man wtf!! You totally just ruined my laptop by making me drool all over it :fs1: :bowdown: You my friend know how to step outside of this comanche box that most of the others are in. I can't wait to see this one done and hell as long as its built right screw what others say.

Oh yes I por15 the insided of the rails as best as i could by loadin my airbrush with por15 and spary as far as I could back and forth on the the inner rails. I also coated the whole under belly with por15 after I used the seam sealer then I rubberized under coated the whole underneith of the truck. So yes shes protected fully. -Jon

Well I recently picked up a 86 mj that was rust free that was originally owned by an old man. I herd about it from a friend and decided to take a ride up to the fellas house and buy it. It was rust free and solid as a rock! But the damn thing had a tiny windshield leak and the carpet ended up soaking up all of the water and it rusted the floors from the inside out :fs1: . Luckly I found it in time before the floors got real bad. I don't Buy patch panels just because I have the tools and skills to knock out any piece of metal I need but if you don't, there are many people who sell repo floor pans for these jeeps but alot of them arent the best fit so youve gotta know how to work them :yes: . Tools you will need: hammers straight screw driver to scrape off original seam sealer A good mig welder (NO RIVITS OR ZIP SCREWS :fs1: ) tin snips grinder with cutoff wheels Bead roller (Cheap ones at harbor freight but you get what you pay for) some time and some bandaids Supply list: 16-18ga sheetmetal POR15 paint Seam Sealer Herculiner So to start with this "how to post" you must first strip the interior out. Then take a hammer and start knocking on the rusty floor. I do this to see how thin the metal is and to find out where there is any good metal if there even is any! Luckly only the front need pans, the rear was just surface rust Hitting it with a hammer hard will allow you to draw out where the worst metal is and where the good metal is. Then you can draw out exactly where you need to cut out the rust. Most will need everything cut out but this one only had pinholes on the passenger side so I could work around them. Watch out for that sharp rusty metal! :rant: Its just a deep scratch. Make sure you got your tetnus shot before you start cutting haha Once you know what needs to be cut out you can use tin snips, a cut off wheel on a grinder, electric snippers, your teeth pretty much any way you can cut this crap out will work. Take into consideration that when your cutting on the drivers side you need to be careful since there are brake lines and gas lines running all down the unibody thats why I don't use flame to cut out the old pans. The unibody was like brand new inside and out so all you have to do is grind down the tops so you will have clean metal to weld to. Once all the old is out its time to either make some pans or start fitting your bought pans. Like stated I don't buy any type of pans and I knocked all of the pans for this job out in about 15 mins. I used 18ga sheetmetal and rolled a couple of beads into each piece which will add strength and make them look like original. If you don't put beads in them then when you weld them in and step on them they will bounce back, just like the cap on a snapple bottle. Once you have the panels made before you start welding you must make sure you have cut out all of the original seam sealer because if you don't this stuff starts on fire real quick and can get out of control in a hurry Then start tack welding all the pieces in place. Make sure you wire wheel and grind all the areas that are going to be getting welded beause you want a good weld that will hold. After all of the panels are welded in you need some seam sealer. I like to use the brushable seam sealer because it goes on easy it dries fast and when your underneith the jeep its easier to brush it on then to have to squirt it on and spread it on with your finger in the calk sealer. Which ever sealer you use make sure that the area is open since this stuff messes you up :ack: Make sure that every seam is covered because if you wheel your jeep no one likes water coming into the cab or having their fresh floor pans rust out haha. Then go out and get yourself some POR15 paint. It will kill the rust completly so you don't have to worry about doing this again. don't just bedline your floor. Bedliner will hold moisture as it dries and when it chips/bubbles which equals rust on all that new metal. So POR15 first its worth the extra cash. Then add 2 thick coats of bedliner I like herculiner since its cheaper and it is pretty durable stuff but there is better out there its just more money. Then throw all the interior back into it and start using it :D I do alot of floors/ rust repair on jeeps and any other type of cars & trucks so if you are in this neck of the woods and need some floors or rust repair and don't want to go through the nightmare of fixing it, let me know Ill give you a great price on fixing your rust! :rotf:

Nice stuff man. I can't wait to see the dash converted to a new style. Thats exactly what I'm doing. Ive got all the parts but have yet to even take my original one out. Now that Ive found someone else doing it I'm going to wait until I see the pics of how yours is done haha.

that piece is nothin to worry about but damn you better expect to have to put full floors in that thing. Its pretty crispy underneith and like stated the rust is inside the unibody which might only be from the floor falling apart and into the inside of the rails like most. It deffiently needs some work before I would drive it. I don't know the price but I hope its dirt cheap

Rock Krawler all the way for your lift kit. They are great quality and trust me I know, my brother worked at rockkrawler for a long time and whenever I could be down there I was haha. Going to the 4 link style was just for on road use. If you don't like having the 4th link in then just take it out and drive with the 3 its all gunna be the same. 4 links ride much better and handle alot better from everything I have experienced in the Hot Rod scene.

HAHA I was thinking the same thing but then I noticed that shopping carts will go right under the damn thing :yes:

Awesome rig man can I see somemore pics of the suspension on this rig?? What did you use for front coils to get you up to 12" of lift? also How did you get the rear suspension up so High? I like how your running 36"s without fender trimming!! :bowdown: thats a dream of mine haha

Sweet thanks bro that link is just what I have been searching for :bowdown: . Expensive yes but it is 3/16 thick which is exactly what I wanted and this kit saves me hours of fab work.

WoW deffiently one of my favorite MJs by far. Your rig is super clean Nice job man. I was wondering, Where did you get that RE setup for the dana 44 in the fron that you were talking about in the start of the post?? I also want to throw a wagoneer 44 in the front of mine and If theres any type of kit out there to make life a little easier I'm deffiently interested haha. -Jon

Welp I'm new on here but not new to the jeep world haha. I'm a young kid at 17 but don't let my age fool you. Ive had jeeps for as long as I can rember and I build Hot rods from the ground up. I had and sold a couple of months ago a 1988 4.0 4x4 comanche with a 2" lift and 31s. Then I picked up a 1997 cherokee with a 6.5" lift and 35s and Now I picked up a sweet LWB 1986 Comanche with the crappy v6. Its rust free which is amazing for being in New York all its life haha. I'm going to be putting dana 44s front and rear with a 7.5" lift and 35in tires on it. I need to sell my cherokee first though :( for the cash to build this one haha