manche Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 i jut did idiot to guage cluster swap bought a temp sensor and when i start up and run for a little the temp goes all the way to 260 degrees antidisestablishmentarianism could cause this and also what would cause my idle to be at 1500 i can't seen to find a leak in the lines but i do however have the idle go up if i press and hold the brake down :help: :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Isolate the problem... take the cluster back out and crank it and see if it still has I high idle.. Ive never heard of a cluster swap causing a high idle... :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manche Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 its not the cluster causeing the high idle thats antidisestablishmentarianism I'm trying to find out when i accelerate rpms drop down to 750 were there suppose to be but once i stop and idle it the idle is like 1500rpms. :wall: the prob with the cluster is that i put a new thermastat and a temp sensor and the gauge read like 240 degrees when i know the engine is not that hot and the thermastat is opening :huh???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 High idle on brakes = bad brake booster. The booster is leaking vacuum (okay, it is leaking air into the intake) and causing the idle to rise. Unless it is always or randomly high, then I'd suggest IAC or TPS. Your gauge problem I don't know about. Bad sender? Bad guage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Did you bump the big vacuum hose running to the brake booster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 You can test the booster by pulling the vac line off it and plugging it .. You sure you got the right sensor for it? There are two different ones, one for the full gauge, one for the dummy light. You can't use one for another.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithe1811 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 i jut did idiot to guage cluster swap bought a temp sensor and when i start up and run for a little the temp goes all the way to 260 degrees antidisestablishmentarianism could cause this and also what would cause my idle to be at 1500 i can't seen to find a leak in the lines but i do however have the idle go up if i press and hold the brake down :help: :wall: I have the same problem, well almost, i have the same high idle as you, which i was already told was the IAC i just havent gotten around to fixing it, and i just swapped my cluster and my oil pressure gauge is pegged out all the time, mine is probably a bad gauge though since it remains topped out even when the truck is off. Erik :beerhead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manche Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 the sensors for the guage sensor its longer and at first i thought maybe i had tighten it down to far but idk :wall: and the dummy is shorter :drool: ill check the booster tomarrow and with the dummy it stays on 100 degrees nvr moves and with this gauge it goes almost to 260 degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Sounds like it's probably a bad guage. I have seen it quite a few times on these swaps. I had a bad oil pressure guage in mine when I did the swap. You can still get the guages from the dealership as well as finding them on eBay quite often too. Your idle issue sounds like it's going to be one of the two things already mentioned. I lean a little more toward the vacuum leak related to the booster or the booster itself being bad. If the IAC were bad or clogged up with crud, the problem would be more consistent in my experience...but, anythign is possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manche Posted December 21, 2008 Author Share Posted December 21, 2008 i think it might be my IAC antidisestablishmentarianism would Cause a slight stumble on acceleration on a cold day happen? i thought was fuel pmp but it a brand new one aand never stumbles in the summer jut winter :idea: :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKB3 Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 does your temp gauge move at all? you may have air in the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 i think it might be my IAC antidisestablishmentarianism would Cause a slight stumble on acceleration on a cold day happen? i thought was fuel pmp but it a brand new one aand never stumbles in the summer jut winter :idea: :ack:That just sounds like a "Jeep Thing" to me. Both of mine have always done that too...although we don't get many cold days down here ;) . It goes away after just a few minutes of warm up time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knightrider Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 The stumble you guys are talking about could be related to an open loop mode when the lambda/oxygen sensor has not reached operating temp . My 86 has a single wire and no cat.......previous owner. So it takes it a bit to get to operating temp. but it never loads up or stumbles, even on 0 deg days. But i always start it and let it run for 10min in the winter..... 219,000 miles and counting on the 2.5 autotragic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manche Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 yah i turn the key and the guage climbs but after like 2 min of running the temp guage is all the way on 260 degrees andi turn the truck off and i used a thermometer on it and its barly 130 degrees and how wou;d you go about cleaning the IAC :typing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 manche -- Ya know, it would help the rest of us a LOT if you could put separate thoughts into at least separate sentences, if not separate paragraphs. My poor old brain has a really hard time making sense out of a single sentence that starts off talking about gauges and then talks about high idle speed and then switches back to gauges without even a bloody comma to warn me you're changing topics. Do you have access to a multimeter? The ohm range for the temp sensor is 0 to 88 ohms. I believe that's zero when cold and 88 at full hot, but it could be the other way around. You should be able to take a reading when the truck has been running for maybe ten or fiftenn minutes, and see what the ohms are. Should be somewhere around 40 or 5o, I believe, for normal operating temperature. If it's the sender that's giving you the bad reading, you should be seeing 88 ohms (or zero ohms). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 To clean the IAC...remove it, clean it good with throttle body cleaner (non-chlorinated) and then clean the throttle body too with the same cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now