knightrider

I don't know about routine services, I work for a fleet in a city, and out services can get pretty far out, near by cities have similar results (in talking with other shops). Some cars get lost in the mix, if a fleet is large enough. While I totally agree that for 90% of most police vehicles lives are spent at idle, and or start/stop mode. Buy it. !!!! Rare police vehicles are cool. Get an okay to run all the police lights on it too......you can usally get with the local law and tell them what you plan to do.

I love my BFG AT's in snow. I am on 235/75r15's, so not exactly wide/tall , I think contact patch has to do with this. Wide equals floatation, especally when they get low on tread and flat instead of slight arc to the tire profile.

Go to NAPA, a brake line banjo bolt should work.....look in their brake parts with the unions, compression fittings and such.

C'mon, no one has ran across this question before? It just seems that the brake best pads I got from O'Reilly had smaller inboard pads and two holes on the backing plate. Could have been used by whoever relined the backing plate with friction material. It had worked with the pads backwards on each caliper.....and everything went back together okay, but I wanted to make sure it was correct.

I was doing my brakes, and found that PO has mixed the pads for both sides. My Haynes manual doesnt discuss a difference, but when I bought new pads, they did appear diffrent inboard to outboard pad. Can someone set me straight on which one goes where. One pad backing plate has holes on it, one does not and has slightly less material. I assume this to be the inboard. Thanks guys......I am also doing new rotors and hoses.....poor things was lucky to stop.

"holy clean white truck batman!" I don't think I have seen a stock MJ body in that good of shape ever. I have seen restored MJ's

The days of Big Snow in kansas are gone. All it seems we get are miny bursts. 2-3" and or 1/4 ice. I want SNOW and NOOOOO ice. My MJ does just fine in 2wd just about everywhere, but it does have the 2.5 and Auto.....so power isn't exactly abundent. It's icing up here as we speak...drove the car today so I would have heat.....sucks to scrape a broken windshield with no heat.

The stumble you guys are talking about could be related to an open loop mode when the lambda/oxygen sensor has not reached operating temp . My 86 has a single wire and no cat.......previous owner. So it takes it a bit to get to operating temp. but it never loads up or stumbles, even on 0 deg days. But i always start it and let it run for 10min in the winter..... 219,000 miles and counting on the 2.5 autotragic.

This might be too obvious, or I could have misread, but have you checked the radiator shroud/elelectric fan and engine cooling fans to make sure they aren't hitting anywhere. This could be where the chopping sound is coming from....... If you have a broken motor mount, could be letting the engine torque to one side, thus the hitting of a fan on the shroud..... Just my .02

Okay......after fighting with seating the new studs, I paid out the $103 at o'reillys and got a new hub.......IT WAS FRIGGIN easy. I was thinking the old one was gonna be a booger....... Just want to make sure everything gets tight this time. Thanks for all the help fellas.

I hit up advance auto tonite. Got them for 1.29 and I'm gonna tackle it Sat. Should be fun. I am also gonna do my front brake hoses.

I lost a wheel due to my own error. I never checked the nuts after I initially put my aluminum wheels on. So long story short, I have a boogered up front hub that needs new studs. What am I gonna need to do this? I might just take the 3 12pt bolts out of the back and just put on a new hub...... Any tips, tricks or hints? Thanks fellas. :yes:

I played with the darn distributor for about 2 hours. It started with just the gasket replacement but then quickly rose to a fun mid-day project with me turning the thing over to find TDC( I bumped the ignition switch on accident!) It's all good now.

That last picture is the brake light switch plug, or the cruise control cancel interrupt.

If you ask for 1/8" spaghetti line, they're more apt to have it. Try NAPA, they usually have a fair amount of all types of rubber hose, vacuum fittings and such.

Got the tires and wheels cheap, thats the best kind. Better than the steel that came off, the backspacing just wasn't right. PO removed the flares......

Check the hose going from your MAP sensor on the firewall to the vacuum hose rail. The line going from it could be cracked enough to be giving it false readings.......possibly the idle air control hole in the carb is plugged up and sticky.........

I have been doing the SAME thing.....come to find out the distributor gasket is gone. Haven't replaced it yet, but for $1.50 it's cheap insurance and easy to do. Glad someone else had this same issue. :nuts:

After replacing all but the elbow style vacuum lines (gonna buy from dealer) I realized.....the MAP sensor wasn't even hooked up. The line 'appeared' to be hooked up but once I touched it it moved due to just old cruddy dried out hoses. I went through most of the other vacuum driven parts on the truck to make sure they were in decent shape for the upcoming winter. As for the truck.....idles smooth as glass......need to adjust the idle stop solenoid (sole-vac) and should be good. Can't believe it's been running at all. Now it's happy as can be and idles, sounds good. Anyone have any 2.5 (h) code vacuum line hose part numbers for the manifold and hoses on the back (firewall) side of the engine? Thanks again for the help!

Holy jeebus! Talk about a bird's nest batman! Saweet seeing it go from bent to purty. Mine is going to be a slow upgrade process but no major plans. Its a winter beater and used during my snow shifts to/from work. I can't get out of my driveway without it, lol. I like the prerunner style front bumper!

I have looked. I cannot find the kickdown cable on the throttle body at all. I was reading a haynes manual, does my TBI even have a kickdown cable? I think it only applied to the carb models.

left hand drill bit. don't know if you can find one large enough. should make easy work of the brass.

EACH! Dang, I don't need them that bad. I would go to pick and pull and get something off a cherokee and make it work.....

I want stock just because they are cheaper. Can I use the rear ones from a XJ? I know the front will, but have seen that the rear ones are shorter. As for that, can I buy them new? (OEM)I will make a decision on the hardware

How are they held on? I have a naked truck, with the usual rear wheel rust and such. The fronts were trimmed by PO and appear to have followed above the original flare, then trimmed it off. Were they held on with platic rivets, sheetmetal screws? Anyone know what kind of bushwacker flares work?