jeep not charging........

[88mjmanche]

my 88 comanche has been sitting for about 6 months at a time for the last 3 years. the previous owner would start it every 6 months and let it run for five minutes. now the battery is not charging and i don't want to take the whole damn thing apart to find out it is not the altanator. now if you can help me then sweet. but if you think that it is something and you are not at least 80% sure then i probly won't try it. unless it is something simple. PLEASE HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

[Pete M]

I doubt that running it for 5 minutes won't even recharge the juice it took to start the truck in the first place. I suspect a bad battery. Take your battery to an auto parts store. Most will check it for free. :thumbsup:

If you have a multimeter, you can easily check to see if the alternator is putting out enough voltage.

[jbhill]

once its running, pull the NEG post off the batt, if it dies the alt. is on its way out.

[Pete M]

Or the alternator has a poor connection to the truck (as in my 88).

[BLHTAZ]

Or the alternator has a poor connection to the truck (as in my 88).

That's what I was going to say too. I just had an issue with our YJ with the check engine light on all the time, the volt meter reading 9v and the code was telling me that there was a problem with the alternator. I checked it and it was putting out good voltage, pulled the battery cables and turned on all the lights and it ran fine, took the alternator off and had it tested...it was good. When I put everything back together...it works fine and the code is gone... :dunno: . Evidentally there was a bad connection somewhere...

[carnuck]

once its running, pull the NEG post off the batt, if it dies the alt. is on its way out.

 

 

DON'T DO IT! You can fry the computer from the power spike as well as kill the alternator if it wasn't already dead. That trick was good on old cars without electronics, but I have seen too many people fry alternators and computers from doing this!

 

Had a customer come in a couple weeks ago complaining his new alternator (third one) was no good. Went out to his rig and watched in horror as he pulled the cable off the battery and say "See? It won't run longer than 5 minutes with the cable off which means it's no damn good!"

Took awhile to explain to him that is car, which died when he pulled the cable off, now needed a computer. "It was working fine when I pulled in here! It must be your damn faulty alternator that killed it!" :mad:

 

I said to him "Here's your sign!" after trying 5 different times to explain to him what he did wrong. Now he's going to sue us because we didn't explain to him in advance that would happen. :rotf:

 

 

When you pull the cable off, the electronic regulator full fields the alt (maximum output) which has no place to go unless everything in the rig is on and the RPMs are high enough for the alt to keep up. It shoots up to almost 18 volts before killing itself or $omething el$e!

[88mjmanche]

so yea i took out the altanator out and brought it down to autozone and did the test on it it failed horribally. i got the new altanator and put it in. was pretty easy to tell the truth. but anyways now there is this ghey annoying squeeling. sounds like a idler pully. :mad: goddd D @ M N IT

J= Just

E=Empty

E=Every

P=Pocket

:yes:

[jtdesigns]

Sqirt some 3 in 1 oil into the idler pully. It might just be a lil dry and rusty.

[aemsee]

once its running, pull the NEG post off the batt, if it dies the alt. is on its way out.

 

 

DON'T DO IT! You can fry the computer from the power spike as well as kill the alternator if it wasn't already dead. That trick was good on old cars without electronics, but I have seen too many people fry alternators and computers from doing this!

 

Had a customer come in a couple weeks ago complaining his new alternator (third one) was no good. Went out to his rig and watched in horror as he pulled the cable off the battery and say "See? It won't run longer than 5 minutes with the cable off which means it's no damn good!"

Took awhile to explain to him that is car, which died when he pulled the cable off, now needed a computer. "It was working fine when I pulled in here! It must be your damn faulty alternator that killed it!" :mad:

 

I said to him "Here's your sign!" after trying 5 different times to explain to him what he did wrong. Now he's going to sue us because we didn't explain to him in advance that would happen. :rotf:

 

 

When you pull the cable off, the electronic regulator full fields the alt (maximum output) which has no place to go unless everything in the rig is on and the RPMs are high enough for the alt to keep up. It shoots up to almost 18 volts before killing itself or $omething el$e!

 

 

I disagree. Where did you get this information from?

[mvusse]

The squeeling could also be from the new alternator's bearings if you tightened the belt too tight.

[Oizarod115]

it's true.

 

the battery is a safety for the system, keeps the voltage steady, it can easily pop out 18v if you disconnect it... may not fry itself EVERY time but it does have the possibility.

 

just go get a free test done ;) its alot safer that way.

[aemsee]

How would disconnecting the battery cause the alt to go "full field"? Take a look at some wiring schematics and see how things are wired.

 

Our trucks are still using solid state voltage regulators, and newer vehicles have fields controlled by the PCM based on a system voltage sense wire. Neither is dependent on the battery being in the system to function. I guess we shall agree to disagree :cheers: