DirtyComanche Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 Got the one corner tacked in place... Image Not Found The hole is for the aforementioned flat bar for a recovery point, I decided I would be able to add it in later. The sheetmetal work isn't done under the tail-light, I'll get a picture of that whenever I do it. Basically, I wanted a slim rear bumper, not some 'ghetto booty' thang. Hopefully it comes out how I wanted. (And the picture looks like $#!& because of the smoke in the shop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 I did some rear tire location mockup, and checked to make sure my intended axle width and such isn't totally unrealistic. Image Not Found Image Not Found That's where it would be with 64" wide axles, and 8" wide wheels with 3.5" BS. I can probably tuck the tire in about 1.5" more before my front hubs extend into the fodder zone, providing I run 10" wide wheels. But, I had to check that it definitely wouldn't work with the stock front width of 69.25" - I had no intentions of not narrowing the axle, but there's always that little voice screaming for an easier way out. I need to buy some tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Alright, got the other corner tacked in place. Just having the two corner guards tacked on has got the body a hell of a lot more rigid. It used to be you could push the whole back end around with your fingers. Image Not Found With tail-light on: Image Not Found Tire relation to corner guard (I was too lazy to move the tire from earlier, shhh) Image Not Found Excuse the mess in the shop, normally I at least sweep up before taking pics but I ran out of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 So, I needed to remove the carrier from my sterling 10.25 as part of my 'feasibility study' on the axle for use in my XJ. It was rather stuck, and I guess you aren't supposed to use a housing spreader on them (or can't effectively). Normally I'd use a pry bar and a bunch of swearing. That's a PITA. Besides, I didn't want to smack anything up as I might be reusing some of the parts. I came up with this solution. And I decided that I'd better take pics, in case I got killed in the process, that way nobody could say 'pics or it didn't happen'. Image Not Found Ratchet strapped to my trailer... Two straps holding the housing, one around the carrier to a chain that was strung from the rear tie-downs. Image Not Found And then with a surprisingly gentle pop, out came the carrier: Image Not Found I'm probably going to do them all this way now... It only took about 5 minutes to rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawn Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 where are you living now ? - i'd love to see this monstrosity in person. and i really do like those rocker/rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 I live in PG, but I keep my jeeps at my parents place in Vernon (they're still okay with it, for now...). I only have an apartment in PG, I've been meaning to change that for the last year (just hasn't happened). So, I only work on anything when I get time off from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 So, I decided I'd try the sterling rear thing out... Of course, while it doesn't have quite as bad of ground clearance as it is often made out to, it could use some hacktastication. So, I drew some lines on it with a paint pen to act like I actually plan things. Image Not Found Then I figured MAYBE I should actually stick the rear end in place before I waste a whole bunch of time on it. Of course, that is easier said than done. I started by cutting out some simple tabs for my UCA towers: Image Not Found Then I modified some old poly brackets that I had lying around to make the frame side UCA mount. Image Not Found Not my best welding... It'll be fine. Image Not Found Then I made some lower link brackets from some more random poly stuff: (shown tacked in place because I didn't take a pic otherwise) Image Not Found Also, they're 'adjustable' but I have no intention of running anything but the upper position. This piece will also be added to those brackets: (shown upside down) Image Not Found Upper tabs, lower brackets (random poly Sh$t again) in place: Image Not Found I had to clearance the pumpkin to get the lower bracket to fit. Was kinda a pain in the @$$. The other side wasn't an issue, the pinion/pumpkin is quite offset on a sterling. Which is a bit unfortunate. If a guy wanted to narrow it by a couple inches, it would be easy as they have unequal length axleshafts and one could run two short ones. Then the whole mess: Image Not Found I also cut out the piece that holds the hatch latch and lower hatch seal; it had to come out to allow it to be mated to a floor, so it will go back in. The axle is at full bump. My links only have half the tube inserts in them, I didn't think to order them ahead of time (building out of stuff lying around). Also, one of the JJ's actually has a 1" shank. I haven't checked what happens when the axle travels because I'm missing parts. Lowers are heat treated chromo stuff (4130, apparently about 170KSI yield, assuming only 140KSI I'm fine for about 3000lbs on the mid-point of one lower link). Uppers are just plain old DOM. All JJ's are right hand thread - I do not believe in left threads unless there is a real good reason for it. And since I bought my JJs over a long period of time I have two different sizes of jam nuts, which is unfortunate. Also, the plan is still to shave the sterling by whacking a big chunk off it and plating the bottom. I just wanted to make sure it fit decent first. I imagine I should remove the pinion before I do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Wow ~ Absolutely Amazing! This is great in so many ways. I will be checking in often . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Nice. 8) Are you cutting at the yellow lines too where the tubes are pressed in? Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 Nice. 8) Are you cutting at the yellow lines too where the tubes are pressed in? Willy The original plan was too, because the pumpkin is about 20.5" wide. I'd already drawn my suspension with the idea of having it fit a D60, where the pumpkin is a little narrower to begin with. Then I realized that a sterling has a long and short side, and was offset anyways. So I played around with my link placement and compromised to only have to take that bit off for the one lower link. I only cut off what was needed for the bracket to go in, not the entire circumference. I figured it probably does some good for the strength of the housing, and I already whacked off all of that lower rib area (blue pen). I actually removed it so it was more or less flush with the cuffs (I'll get pics when I get back around to hacking the sterling). As it sits... I am slightly concerned (only slightly) that I should perhaps have the lower links outboarded on the frame so that they are wider on the axle. It might help keep stress off the links/brackets. But, I'm not too concerned since everything is fairly beefy and I'm not shooting to have huge tires or stupid amounts of power. Edit... Oh yeah, sterling 10.25s are like 8.8s (sterling makes the 8.8) in that the tubes aren't welded to the pumpkin, but they drive pegs in to hold them. Gotta weld the tubes up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zjrog Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Now, will that be an XJ with a frame, or is it still considered unibody? Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 This is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Now, will that be an XJ with a frame, or is it still considered unibody? Nice work. It's still unitized, since it's all welded together. The floor (when it goes in) will be at least partially structural. I thank everyone for the kind comments. I've really thrown myself into the insanity with this build :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Anybody wanna guess what this was? Image Not Found Here's a hint. I can't say I'd recommend using a 5" angle grinder to shave an axle. Something with a little more reach would make it a lot easier... Now there's a big ol' hole: Image Not Found And this is a view of how much I removed: Image Not Found Versus how it started: Image Not Found Before anybody says anything, I don't wear sandals while working in the shop. Not any more at least. And if I was to I wouldn't be wearing socks with them, I have been told that is taboo by enough females... Anyways, the grinding isn't done, it needs to be trued up a bit first. Then I'll check that the carrier can actually go back in... Then I just gotta stick a piece of .375" on it. Oh, and build a diff cover since I can't seem to find an aftermarket one that I could modify. And the stock on is much like an 8.8, about as thick as that coloured construction paper. Also, I should pull the pinion out before I do the welding. I imagine the bearings are packed full of filings now anyways. I'm not sure how bad that will be, I'm thinking it should just pop out with a gentle sledge-hammering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I've seen several guys use a Sawzall. Do you think that would have worked better? Are you planning to do the preheat, weld, slow cool process with a MIG welder? Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 I've seen several guys use a Sawzall. Do you think that would have worked better? Are you planning to do the preheat, weld, slow cool process with a MIG welder? Willy To use a sawzall you would need a really long blade. With the sterling the area to be removed extends a long ways towards the pinion. A 10" or so disk in the angle grinder would have made shorter work... Might weld it with castarc with the stick... Haven't decided yet. It's that or backtracking with the mig using some preheat and a slow cool. I'm not there yet (the mig would be fine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 I'm not familiar with castarc. What's involved in that? Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 I'm not familiar with castarc. What's involved in that? Willy Actually, it's a brand/trade name, like NiArc or Nickel-99 or such. It's just a rod that has a high nickel content so it welds better to cast iron. It's expensive. I have some, but it will have to go in the oven before I use it (if it is still in decent shape). Also, I haven't used my stick for much more than burning out bolts/stuck stuff recently (now that I think about it, it's probably been 2 years, that rod is probably garbage). To complicate things a little more, I didn't want to just plate it in with regular hot rolled steel. So I tried to buy some A-50 or T-1. Turns out neither are easy to get here. But they had a chunk of .375" AR (Abrasion Resistant), which is brutally hard. It requires to be preheated to 300* minimum before it'll weld nicely. So, there's going to be a fair amount of heat in this process. I'm thinking I might go rent an oxy/acetylene torch to aid in pre-heating. I have a little oxy/mapp torch that take the small torch bottles (1-lb?). I don't know if it'll throw enough heat. Also, I'm going to need some serious heat to get the freaking pinion yoke off. I broke my harmonic balancer puller trying to get it off. Durr. I would have tried my little torch to get it hot first, but I had no oxygen left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Are the Visteon axles cast iron or cast steel? I have read a lot of debate about the 8.8. Most seem to agree that it is cast steel. I would guess the 10.25 would be the same. That may impact how you choose to weld it. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Are the Visteon axles cast iron or cast steel? I have read a lot of debate about the 8.8. Most seem to agree that it is cast steel. I would guess the 10.25 would be the same. That may impact how you choose to weld it. Willy Does Visteon own Sterling? Or, did they? Ford owned it, spun it off, bought it back... Anyways, the 10.25 is probably cast nodular iron. The sparks were more consistent with cast iron, shorter and more orange in colour. Also, it feels soft when grinding, cutting, drilling, etc, which is consistent with cast nodular iron. Cast steel would also be very atypical for an application like this. As to the 8.8, I wouldn't comment, but I'd assume the same. So, I welded this thing on. I pre-heated to about 500*... Welded 1"~ segments, peined the weld, blah blah. Used the MIG, and did it seriously hot... Image Not Found Ground around the edge to smooth it all out. Image Not Found I shouldn't have made the plate as wide as I did, it was slightly counter-productive. Ohwell. Also, I welded the inside but neglected to take a picture. And I hate wire wheels. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Are the Visteon axles cast iron or cast steel? I have read a lot of debate about the 8.8. Most seem to agree that it is cast steel. I would guess the 10.25 would be the same. That may impact how you choose to weld it. Willy Does Visteon own Sterling? Or, did they? Ford owned it, spun it off, bought it back... The 10.25/10.5 is made by Visteon. They are incorrectly referred to as Sterling axles because, from what I've been able to find, they are built in Sterling. The Sterling corporation is completely unrelated and didn't exist until Daimler/Freightliner purchased the HD truck division of Ford and renamed it Sterling in the late '90s. Can you still take a picture of the inside or have you already installed the gears? I wouldn't mind seeing what that looks like. :D Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCMJ87 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Sweet-looking.. Build up DirtyComanche I'm waiting to see your front clip idea.. Build-On Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 The 10.25/10.5 is made by Visteon. They are incorrectly referred to as Sterling axles because, from what I've been able to find, they are built in Sterling. The Sterling corporation is completely unrelated and didn't exist until Daimler/Freightliner purchased the HD truck division of Ford and renamed it Sterling in the late '90s. Visteon wasn't spun off until 97. Sterling in 98. These axles showed up in the late 80s, IIRC. Visteon also makes no mention of building axles, just interiors and electrical. Whatever, it's largely irrelevant. Referring to is as a 'Ford 10.25' might well be most correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 The 10.25/10.5 is made by Visteon. They are incorrectly referred to as Sterling axles because, from what I've been able to find, they are built in Sterling. The Sterling corporation is completely unrelated and didn't exist until Daimler/Freightliner purchased the HD truck division of Ford and renamed it Sterling in the late '90s. Visteon wasn't spun off until 97. Sterling in 98. These axles showed up in the late 80s, IIRC. Visteon also makes no mention of building axles, just interiors and electrical. Whatever, it's largely irrelevant. Referring to is as a 'Ford 10.25' might well be most correct. AAM started the same way. GM was making 10, 12, 14 bolts, etc. long before AAM spun off in the 90s and made them. :thumbsup: Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 We're getting off base... I'm tracking down a Warn 8274 to go on the front of this thing. A modern winch would fit better... However, I decided the 8274 is more suiting for what I intend. And I had to redesign how the entire front frame will go together, since apparently D60s turn to 40* stock. Oops. Otherwise I'm back at work, so nothing will get done for a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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