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Another RUSTYS rant.....


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:banana:

 

Because I loooove beating dead horses, I just have to say Rusty's own brand products are absolute crap. There have been countless breakage reports on NAXJA for YEARS. Infact, they get mad at people when they bring it up, because it's common knowledge over there.

 

I just searched for a picture of one of his control arms snapped in half (the guy was unloading his XJ off a trailer :headpop: ), but the link was broken...

 

I couldn't imagine that happening for 2 reasons:

 

#1 because you would expect a part like that to be strong (especially an aftermarket peice)

and #2 because I don't have a trailer to unload my junk off of :cry:

 

I guess we can all unanimously agree to not buy Rusty's brand stuff? More reason to get stuff from motion. :cheers:

 

CW - that sucks bro :cry: I don't have any advice other than *maybe* it's time to upgraaaade!

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4.5" Motion leaf springs are ON ORDER!!! jamminz.gifjamminz.gif

 

Who else has them??

 

CW

 

did you get the ones with the higher load rating?

 

Just an fyi, HellCreek has them in 3" & 4" choices also, and the 4" IIRC you can get in either std load rating or MT rating. I know you already ordered and not trying to sell Motion short, just sharing the info for future reference.

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4.5" Motion leaf springs are ON ORDER!!! jamminz.gifjamminz.gif

 

Who else has them??

 

CW

 

did you get the ones with the higher load rating?

 

Just an FYI, Hell Creek has them in 3" & 4" choices also, and the 4" IIRC you can get in either std load rating or MT rating. I know you already ordered and not trying to sell Motion short, just sharing the info for future reference.

 

Got the MT rating.. actually didn't notice one WITH OUT it.... :D

 

Thanks for the compliments guys, yup ALWAYS upgrade time when breakage occurs!!!

 

CW

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That weld will be alright for a while. What's the worst it can do, crack again?

 

If I were welding it, I wouldv'e gouged the crack out a bit, and cooled it slowly, but it's really not that crutial if you're only street driving it for a week or two.

 

Exactly my thoughts... jamminz.gif Yes, I did chamfer the crack as best I could, I didnt want to get too close to the centerhole so only opened up 3/4 the way across on each side but not top and bottom, Just top side. I kept wet towels on eitherside of the spring to keep the heating to a minimum.

 

Spoke with a number of people who should be in the know. Got answers from what I thought to it will be too brittle and will crack as soon as weight is applied. So looks lke no one know for sure.

I assembled last night. I heard some noise from the spring initially as weight was applied. I got in the bed and jumped repeatedly and there was ZERO noise from spring. Hope its OK...

 

Its just gotta get me to show, new leafs on order...

 

Thanks,

CW

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Hi, Guys,

 

Those leaves have been broken for a while. As a spring manufacturer, I can testify that there is only one way that a leaf spring can break through the center bolt hole - there has to be motion in that area, which there shouldn't be. Think about it - if you can't move it, you can't break it. Some of the reasons that the center, clamped area could be loose would be that the u-bolts worked loose, the axle saddle is not flat but has become rounded or the u-bolt plate is not flat. Another reason might be that most aftermarket and some original equipment springs have rounded centers, which would not allow full contact with the flat axle saddle. All of our leaf springs are made with flat centers, as are some of the other high quality springs out there. Just remember, the center bolt area of a leaf spring is its weakest part; it should be clamped securely, or it will eventually break.

 

Welding a spring is never a good idea. It makes the steel brittle, and it will break.

 

Thanks,

Tom

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GREAT info THANK YOU!!

 

The Ubolts where tight. The spring plates are old, but perfect condition. Didnt see anything obvious but your explination makes perfect sence to me. How/why would it break if it didnt move....

Even with out moving I can see how it would be subject to some stress forces, but not nearly as much as if it moved.

Anyway, we KNOW they where CRAP form the get go. I got exactly what I paid for...

 

Alcans on the way to me!!

 

CW

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Alcans on the way to me!!

 

:drool:

 

$375+shipping and a phone call and you too can have a set!!

 

At least I had a good paycheck this week... 33.5 hrs overtime, Sure helped cover the costs. Momma got the rest. Easy come easy go I guess.... :roll:

 

CW

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Alcans on the way to me!!

 

:drool:

 

$375+shipping and a phone call and you too can have a set!!

 

At least I had a good paycheck this week... 33.5 hrs overtime, Sure helped cover the costs. Momma got the rest. Easy come easy go I guess.... :roll:

 

CW

 

From Motion? Or...?

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The springs where on my Door Step Friday when I got home!!!

 

 

SO, Plans changed a bit and I put them in today!! SO GLAD I DID as the springs had broken again alongside and thru my welds!!!! :eek: :eek:

 

Install went as it should, only one hiccup and one minor problem. The centering bolt head was too small for the hole in my perch's. Quick trip to the drill press fixed that!!

 

 

I made a spacer of the correct diameter to fit the hole.

 

 

 

Finished the D side and started the P side... here is the hiccup. Seems either the Alcans or the Rusty's dimensions are wrong. (I'm leaning toward the Rusty's but don't know for sure.) The distance from the front bushing to the centering bolt on the Rusty's is 26 1/8" the Alcans is 25". This moves the axle too far forward. :headpop: :headpop:

 

My solution was to make a new centering pin and move the axle back to the front hole in my perches. I also had to bore new relief holes in my U Bolt skids.

 

 

Everything bolted up nicely from there on out.

 

 

I ended up loosing about an inch from over all lift. I also noticed the DS pronounced lower then the PS. Buy about two inches!!! I found that Pop had tightened the front bushing with the axle up in the air. But that only got me back an inch. As it sits now, its still lop sided to the DS by about an inch.

 

Because of the loss on lift out back the front now sits higher. I don't like that SO, out come the ACOS's!! BUT, I screwed up again, as I had the ACOS's set to give me about 3/4" more lift to the DS to offset the natural "lean" toward the DS.... This compounded the lower spring in the rear.... :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: But its all together and I am not changing it today!!!

 

 

SO it sits nice for front to rear rake, but leans a bit from pass to drivers sides...

 

 

I also found some Cancer... I have some frame repairs to do....

 

 

CW

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$375+shipping and a phone call and you too can have a set!!CW

 

Here's the same MT springs a little bit cheaper. No mods required either. :D

 

http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_springs/jeep/comancheclub.html

Pretty sure he got lift springs, not MT springs...

 

The pic shows the 4+1 springs, and CW said he got the MT rated springs, so I ASSumed he got MT springs. The General Spring 4+1 MT springs are rated at

 

o 1500 # rating

o 130 - 275 spring rate, 9-5/8" arch

o 26" x 31" x 5-leaf, 2-1/2" wide

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He got a set of our MJ 4.5" lift leafs in the heavy duty version. Our normal version has a load capacity of 960, the HD version is 1300. Our leafs are a 4 leaf pack with an overload leaf on the bottom; as they are trucks and some people do use them as such.

 

CW I'm a bit confused about the center pin issue. Maybe the photo's are throwing me off as it looks like you've got a different perch (aftermarket) and the photo isn't even of our leaf showing the center pin. THIS PHOTO is what I'm referring to. However your installed photo shows a factory perch being used. We've used the same center pins for all our leafs and never ran into the issue of it being way to small. Are you running different perches? Please elaborate so we can resolve any further issues in our next batch of leafs.

 

As far as the distance from the bushing to the center pin, we've made the axle sit in the same spot as it did from the factory; just lower. As the leaf compresses the wheel will move backward due to the shackle being in the rear. If you move the location much further back you'll run into issues with tires hitting the fender and also with the factory d-shaft than being to short at full flex. Possibly just a design difference between ours and Rustys, but we felt that we'd rather keep it in the factory location and not lead to other issues caused by lifting.

 

By your post it sounds like you had a leaning issue prior to even installing the leafs which you made up for by adjusting the ACOS to different heights? Comanches are built with the gas tank on the driver's side, if the truck is used mainly as a single person vehicle, the driver's side springs (both front and rear) will see more use than the passenger's side spring. This is why many vehicles built this way lean to the left slightly. You did wait to tighten anything down untill Jeep was sitting on it's own weight correct? Go flex it a bit, the leafs should level themselves out.

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He got a set of our MJ 4.5" lift leafs in the heavy duty version. Our normal version has a load capacity of 960, the HD version is 1300. Our leafs are a 4 leaf pack with an overload leaf on the bottom; as they are trucks and some people do use them as such.

 

Sounds like a stock 4-leaf pack w. added arch for more lift with an overload AAL. Definitely not MT springs. The real MT springs gave me 2.5"-3" lift (equally on both sides) plus the added load capacity. And yeah, I use mine as a truck. :D Glad I got the ones I have.

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He got a set of our MJ 4.5" lift leafs in the heavy duty version. Our normal version has a load capacity of 960, the HD version is 1300. Our leafs are a 4 leaf pack with an overload leaf on the bottom; as they are trucks and some people do use them as such.

 

Sounds like a stock 4-leaf pack w. added arch for more lift with an overload AAL. Definitely not MT springs. The real MT springs gave me 2.5"-3" lift (equally on both sides) plus the added load capacity. And yeah, I use mine as a truck. :D Glad I got the ones I have.

We never called them Metric Tone leafs, we call them Heavy Duty as they have a higher load capacity than our normal set does. The leaf configuration is different on the HD version for leaf #2, #3, and #4 than the normal version is, thus resulting in a higher load capacity. Nowhere do we ever call them Metric Tone leafs...

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Never did say you called them MT springs Adam. I was just going by CW's "MT rated" post. I guess them best term is to call your springs is HD 4" lift springs? Probably a great product, but I prefer the factory spec metric ton springs.

 

Just today I picked up a load of hardwood flooring from Lumber Liquidators 'cause the Commander wants to get rid of the carpeting. :headpop: It's due to be done I guess. 27 boxes @ 75# each, total 2025#. Measured at the rear flare lip before and after; it only dropped 1/2". Never knew I had a load back there.........

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As per Motion, mine are 1350# MT rated 4.5" lifted springs. The reg or std pack where 960# rated. (same as factory)

 

They are about the same height as the Rusty's where. Before the RE Add-A-Leaf install that is.

 

I'll post up as time goes be with how I like them. So far they are fine, but all I have gone is around the block.

 

Like Dirty, said, hopefully things will balance out with some miles... I'll likely add another .75 spacer to the drivers coil though as that's how I have had it since my first lift in this truck.

 

CW

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