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new title: 2.5 -> 4.0 swap


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Made some good progress this weekend…I should have it running by this coming weekend if not sooner. Jerry came down and gave me a hand splicing the NSS wiring and helping me swap out tranny crossmembers. A note to anyone installing an AX15 in their rig if there isn’t one there to begin with……all the transfer case shift linkage parts except the shifter handle assembly are different (specific to the AX15 ONLY) as well as the #%*#@$ tranny crossmember, which is diveted out in the center where the mount goes. If you use any other crossmember the TC linkage will not line up and your catalytic converter will be kissing the floorboard. Found all that out the hard way, but two trips to the junkyard later all is well.

 

Got the NSS wiring spliced, swapped the fuel lines, reinstalled the windshield washer reservoir, got the 2.5 coolant overflow bottle installed and happy with the wiring harness (eliminated the ballast resistor and have to relocate the EGR solenoid). Got the battery/alternator wiring all tied in and reinstalled the battery. Turned the key to check for fuel leaks and to test the starter circuit……starter works and engine spins but the battery needs to be charged. The fuel pressure regulator is puking fuel all over the place at the seam where the two pieces are crimped together. Will be installing a new one this week. Ended up stopping work on the engine and installed the trackbar brace, pulled the rubber cargo mat and reshot the floor with spray-on bedliner. I have a new cargo mat but I think I’m going to leave it out for now and see how loud it is. I can always pull the seats out and install it later.

 

Couple pics:

 

Spliced the NSS wiring (well, Jerry did…..:D)

 

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gas pedal is different between a 2.5 (left) and 4.0 (as well as the throttle cable)

 

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cover for the tranny hump is different (AX15 on R)

 

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RE trackbar brace installed (what a PITA!)

 

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fresh coat of bedliner on floorboards (you can see the repairs I made a couple years ago on the driverside……there was nothing there)

 

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Still rockin' the stock steering wheel.....and glove compartment door, too :D

 

Tossed the rear driveshaft up yesterday, just for s***s and giggles....it's about a foot too long. Gonna have to have it cut down, again :oops:

 

Didn't try the front shaft, but I'm pretty sure I have one that will work.

 

Jeff

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got the fuel pressure regulator swapped, changed the front U-joint on a stock front AX15 driveshaft I got from Pat and installed it.

 

Charging the battery, have to bleed the clutch yet and install the radiator, pipe up a new muffler and put the seats back in. Should be driveable on Saturday (FWD for now, until I can get a rear driveshaft cut down to fit).

 

Jeff

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I'm running a late model 231 TC that has the sealed output. Just put it in 4HI and you get FWD with no rear shaft.....

 

Not planning on any roadtrips with it, just moving it in/out of the garage, and maybe up to the corner gas for a fillup. Once I measure for the rear shaft and drop it off at the shop, I should have it the next day. I'll probably do that next week (they aren't open on weekends).

 

Jeff

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couple random pics……

 

shot from underneath:

 

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new TC installed:

 

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shot of the AX15 crossmember, showing the divet in the center where the mount attaches:

 

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got the flange welded up on the new cat and got it installed:

 

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Congrats Jeff-man! Looks and sounds great! Were you peeing down your leg as I was when I first fired up my new stroker? Wish I had documented it as you have done so well. I hope you're slamming the brews down 'bout now - you deserve it mate. :cheers:

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Fire in the hole............

 

:cheers: It sounds Great jamminz.gif . Congrats on a job well done - Rich

It does sound good, but it looked to be running at a little over 1000 RPM in that quick shot of the tach you did. It should be down around 700.

 

Keep up the good work... :D

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Yeah, I've got about 75 psi on startup.....that was after it had been running for about 20 minutes. It stays at a constant 35-40 when hot, and blips when I hit the throttle. Might switch to 10W40.

 

I've got a few little issues, such as the idle.....it is right around 1K. When it first starts up it revs to about 1800 then drops to a steady 1K....may swap the IAC, but I'm not sure I don't have a vaccuum port that isn't connected yet. I just booty-fabbed things to get it running....I'll fine tune it later on this week.

 

Other than that, my fuel gauge is pegged (and I only have 1/4 tank in it). I think it's becuase I have a Renix-era cluster in it, and I swapped in a HO fuel pump assembly. Something else to figger out :D

 

Thanks for all the compliments guys! :cheers: I had lots of help from alot of you on here, and I wanna say a big thank you to the CC community jamminz.gif It wasn't the easiest thing I've ever done, but it was sure worth it. I took it out for a short spin earlier today and the power difference is night-and-day. Didn't want to push it with just the front shaft in it.....I'm picking up the rear (shortened) shaft tomorrow after work. Then we'll see what she can really do.

 

 

Jeff

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and Tony Stewart winning Talledega.......I hit the trifecta!

 

:D

 

I'm hurting a bit today though....probably gonna take it easy this week and not work too much on it. I've got a long weekend coming up this weekend, hope to get it all buttoned up and start cleaning out the storage unit so we can move my neighbor's junk in it.

 

Jeff

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Forgot to post this earlier……pic of the difference between the 2.5 and the 4.0fuel pumps (2.5 one is the smaller one on the bottom). I was going to try and see if the 2.5 pump would have enough psi to fire but went ahead and swapped everything out beforehand. I wasn’t sure it was going to start to begin with, and didn’t want to add a variable to the equation if I had to troubleshoot.

 

differences:

 

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because MJ fuel pump assemblies have a tendency to crack where the metal lines pass through the mounting plate, and they are universally unavailable anymore, I decided to add a bit of JB weld to the lines on the new assembly before putting it in as a safety measure:

 

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