jteckmann

I only have one very bad pic of mine with the top on, and I was kinda hesitant to post it, because it really doesn't show much: Anyway - it came off an 80's era S10 LWB (not sure if that's what it was originally intended for, however). Cab angle was a near match, but it was taller because of the panel doors so sat about 1.5"-2" above the roofline. And because of the full-length doors it was shorter than normal. So I had about a 3" gap behind the cab, and the tailgate was about 1.5" wider on each side of the doors.

Wow. That's just an amazing collection, and he sounds like an awesome guy. I remember that kinda of the same thing happened when my Grandad passed. He had been a mechanic his whole life and when he "retired", built a 2-car shop in his backyard for a hobby/extra-income. When we went to clean the place out out, it was overwhelming - so many miscellaneous parts & supplies that none of us really had a need or space for at the time. We kept some small stuff, like display shelves, signs, etc., as mementos - but had to have an estate sale to handle the rest. It was mostly Ford/GM/Mopar stuff ... so nothing incredibly rare, Certainly not like this guy's place. I think it's really cool that other enthusiasts are going to get first crack at it. (BTW - that fiberglass shell looks like an AMX/3 That's an amazing find all by itself, and I hope someone is able to save/use it.)

A diesel swap is one of my dream projects for the MJ. Every now and then, I'll kill a few hours at the computer reading and researching about it, and mapping it out in my head. Then realize I don't have the time or money for it right now, and forget about it ... only to go through the same thing a few months later. 8) the link hornbrod gave is great. Here's another good one, too: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/forumdisplay.php?f=58 But based on what I've read - I think an Isuzu swap makes lots of sense. One of the main reasons being that GM's sourced their diesels from Isuzu for decades (back to the old Chevy LUV days to the modern Duramax). So I think there's a lot of off-the-shelf parts availability and drivetrain adaptability. If you were to get a hold of that complete 3.1 Trooper set-up, I'm sure you could make it fit ... where there's a will, there's a way ;) One engine that's always interested me is the their "4BD" series of engines that were in the Isuzu/GMC NPR box trucks from the 80's through the 90's. 4cyls, 3.9L, available in Turbo or non-Turbo, direct or indirect injection. I've read that power specs on it are almost identical to the 4cyl Cummins, but the Isuzu's relatively lighter, smaller, and quieter. And I don't know if it varies regionally, but around where I'm at, a cheap Isuzu box truck donor would be a helluva lot easier to track down than anything with a Cummins in it. Good luck! :cheers:

POR-15's definitely the way to go. It is a marine-grade product, and I've known guys who use it as a base coat on metal boat hulls. Most marine base coats are epoxy based - and IMO they're a pain to mix and apply, expensive, and heavy. POR-15 is basically the same thing - a hard seal protecting the metal from moisture - so it replaces the epoxy base coat. I'm definitely not an expert, but here's my ham-fisted understanding of it: With boats, it's not so much the paint that stops the rust/corrosion. Saltwater is an electrolyte, so a metal boat hull sitting in the water is like being in a battery. And the majority of corrosion control comes from the sacrificial zincs and isolated grounds for the electrical system to guard against stray currents and the galvanic corrosion that happens underwater. So marine paints are formulated with specific metal content and pH levels. They also contain pesticides to inhibit the growth of barnacles, algae, etc. Most marine paint is designed to be sacrificial - leach off to keep the hull clean, and it loses it's effectiveness over time. That's why boats have to be hauled out and re-painted every year or so. Those properties are overkill and wasted on a car. If you go the POR-15 route, and then cover it with a few top coats of rustoleum for UV protection, and then maybe some rubber undercoating for sound deadening, you'll be getting the same level of protection.

It's definitely possible to turbo or supercharge a TBI. When I go to car shows with my father-in-law, I see a bunch of the hot rod and muscle car guys running aftermarket systems on their TBI GM V8's. You just need a pressure bonnet with a relief valve that goes over the TB. I've always thought supercharging would be the way to go - so you don't have to deal with splicing into the exhaust system, and you get the power right from the start. I'd imagine turbo-lag would be kinda a pain to deal with when driving on the trail (for an off-roader, a DD not so much) If I had an MPI 2.5, I'd be saving my money up for a kit right now. I definitely think it's possible with a TBI - get one of the aftermarket kits for the 2.5, get a pressure bonnet somewhere, and fab up an adaptor to the Renix TBI. I've also thought that if you went with Clifford's intake/header set, threw on a Holly TB, and then bolted a supercharger on that, you'd probably be able to build quite the screamin' 4-banger. These are bullet-proof little engines, and IIRC, AMC used to dominate while racing a 2.5 Comanche. But there's the rub. Building it is one thing - building it on a reasonable budget is something else. You could throw $5K into a 2.5 and have an awesome engine, but it's be comparable to a fresh 4.0 that somebody dropped maybe $1K into, tops. And with the lack of aftermarket support, you'd constantly be running into headaches the 4.0 guys don't have to deal with. But that's all part of the fun. It's the same motivation that drives guys to swap in diesels and all other sorts of stuff - doing it for the enjoyment and pride of building something different.

Ha! I did the same thing - I have a whole power steering assembly sitting in my garage, and haven't put it in because I'm afraid of the power drain. I may go ahead and do it anyway, since it's my DD, and parallel parking the thing is a pain. My best guess is that adding the ps and ditching the mechanical fan will cancel each other out, and it will just drive like it did before. For the electric fan on mine, I just purchased the smaller Hayden(?) universal model at the local AutoZone. Cost about $65 and came with all the wiring and mounting hardware. I wired in a toggle switch on the dash so I can turn it off/on manually. It's worked fine for me - doesn't take much to keep the 2.5 cool. Pretty much the only time I have to run it is when I'm sitting in stop and go traffic. Anytime I'm at speed, the natural airflow keeps the engine at normal temp. If you search this site, or look through the DIY thread, there are a few good write-ups on how to use the electric fan from a Ford Taurus - cheap and plentiful at local junkyards. AFAIK, that mod works on both the 2.5 and the 4.0 - you may just have to do a little extra trimming when mounting it to the radiator. For the filter, your best bet is also home-brew. I'm not aware of a company that makes a complete set-up specifically for TBI 2.5 MJ's or XJ's. Easiest thing to do, IMO is to get a decent cone filter, and then fab up the ductwork yourself. The other thing is to grab the airbox from a 4.0 at the junkyard and swap it in place of the 2.5 box. It's slightly bigger - so you may need to relocate your washer fluid or radiator reservoir to get it to fit. But K&N makes a drop-in filter that fits the stock 4.0 box. Gearing seems to be the way to go. From what I've read, the 2.5 likes to be in the 2500-3500 range, and can rev at 3000 all day long. The 4sp, 3.55 combo seems to be a real dog, especially at highway speeds. Tire size makes a huge difference. I moved from the stock 215's up to just 235's, and I was having to feather the clutch a lot more just to keep from stalling out at red lights. Right now, I'm just waiting for one of my driveline components to fail, so I can justify the expense of upgrading to a D44 with 4.10's and a 5sp. :brows:

start at the bottom edge, and gently pull out while lifting up towards the roof, kinda like flipping open a lid where top inside of the rain gutter is the hinge (hope that makes sense, can't think of a better way to describe it) There are a series of metal tension clips that hold it in place. You'll probably stretch them out while getting them off. I was able to use a screwdriver to bend them back into place and put the trim back on - or you could use some adhesive.

For more info on the 2.5, this is a good site to check out: http://www.4bangerjp.com/forums/ Most of the available mods, however are for the 1991 and up versions of the engine, after they received multi-port injection. Us TBI guys seem to be limited. Clifford Performance makes a header for the 2.5, but IIRC the catch is that you have to upgrade to their intake manifold as well, and the Renix TBI will not bolt up to it, so you have to go with the added expense of a carb or aftermarket injection set-up on it. Avenger makes a supercharger kit, but it is for the +90's MPI version. The best mods for the TBI 2.5 are the simplest - you're not going to add much to it, instead, you need to free up and use some of the horses that are already there and being wasted. - free flowing air intake with a cone filter or K&N - open up the exhaust to about 2"-2.25" with a high-flow cat and muffler - ditch the mechanical cooling fan and replace it with an electric unit. - gearing, gearing, gearing. A stock 2.5 4sp has 3.55 gearing. General consensus seems to be that a 5sp and 4.10's are the way to go. Takes better advantage of the engine's power curve Theoretically, the Renix 2.5 should benefit from a throttle body spacer. I'm not aware of anybody that makes one - but you could use the gaskets to trace out a pattern and home-brew one. None of those things will turn the 2.5 into a powerhouse, but they will make it much more drivable and easy to live with. And for lots of people (myself included) the 2.5 is fine for my needs. But if you want real horsepower, the easiest answer on how to upgrade a 2.5 is "swap it for a 4.0".

Mellow Mushroom ... :drool: :drool: :drool: . One of the few places I still really, really miss from Atlanta. And thanks for the thread, one I'll be keeping an eye on since a swap to the AX-5 or AX-15 is on my future "want to" list.

Pretty sure it was on this forum, but I saw pics of an MJ with either an old Ranger or S-10 stepside bed on it. I'm personally not a fan of stepsides, but in the pic it looked goodl, and the lines of whatever bed they used matched up well. It almost looked "factory" EDIT: Found the thread - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14889

On the older trucks, the bolt can also work loose and the switch falls out of position. At least, that's what happened on my '86. Was driving in town, and a guy pulled up next to me at a stoplight and (thankfully) told me my brake lights weren't coming on. Pulled into the parking lot to check fuses, and that's when I noticed the switch was angled down towards the floorboard, and wasn't making contact with the pedal. I tightened it up for the drive home, then I put a lock washer and some threadlocker on it so hopefully it doesn't happen again.

I did the same thing when doing the bucket swap in my truck - used the rocker seats without realizing how much taller they'd be. After a few weeks, I found that I preferred the visibility and driving position of the higher seat (I'm 5'10"). I pulled off my rearview mirror and re-mounted it higher up on the windshield - that helped open up the view and made the cab feel less claustrophobic.

Good point - could be a possible CFC. I googled the GA DMV. Here's their rules for salvage and rebuild titles: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/motor/titles/needed/salvage.asp http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/motor/titles/needed/rebuilt.asp

I think convertible trucks are kinda cool - I remember when I was in high school there was that Dakota convertible they made for a year or so, and I thought it was pretty bad @ss. If you live in a warm area or spend a lot of time on the beach, it would probably be a sweet ride. But I agree - I'd never do that to an MJ (unless it had been rolled or was already damaged) An S10, Ranger - sure, whatever. but clean MJ's are getting too hard to find. This dude probably doesn't know that, though. Definitely needs a roll bar for safety & stability. And I'd probably do two different top set ups - a canvas for just the cab, and then maybe a full-length canvas that would do the cab and whole bed.

He's probably talking about a "salvage title". I went through this when my wife had her car totaled by the insurance co. while we were living in Atlanta. In Georgia, a salvaged title says you can only sell for parts or scrap. If you're selling to anyone that plans on restoring the vehicle, then they have to be a state licensed re-builder. And only state licensed re-builders are allowed to apply for a new "rebuilt" title for it, after showing proof of work and having it inspected. But I don't know if the same rules apply between states. My guess is that you'd need to call your local DMV and see if they'd accept a Georgia salvage title. Then call Georgia DMV and see if they waive the "licensed rebuilder" part because you're an out of state buyer.

:bowdown: Great story, great truck.

Cool tent, man! I've been debating whether to get an aluminum topper or one of those truck-tents. (or maybe even get the topper plus the SUV version of the tent). How do you like it, and how quick/easy is it to set up compared to a regular dome tent?

That sounds pretty good. The only Rangers I've heard being fuel misers are the stripped down econo models - 2WD, 4-bangers with a manual. And I've heard it's mainly the earlier ones - that as Ford upped the power out of the 4-banger, the millage decreased a bit. Just mainly a curiosity thing for me. I like saving gas when I can - but If I really cared about 30mpg, I wouldn't be using a truck as my DD. 8)

2.5L, 4sp, 3.55 gears, 235/75-15 tires, stock suspension. I get about 21-22mpg as a daily driver. I've got up to the 25-26 range with a lot of highway miles thrown it. I've been between 18-19 in town and when hauling. I drive with a light foot.

Good question. I know the EPA ratings don't always translate to the real world, but I checked fueleconomy.gov and the 2.5 Comanche's & Dakota's both received the same rating - 18/23mpg. Makes sense to me - I'd think the increased size/weight of the Dakota would cancel out most aerodynamic improvements. Be interesting to hear from a Dakota owner what type of real-world results they get. Yeah, driving the equivalent of a toaster on wheels, I'm not expecting my MJ to defy the laws of physics or anything :D. However, those 80's-era Rangers were pretty squarish themselves - and the 2WD 4-bangers got ratings in the 23/27 range. And when I hear guys talk about getting +30 with a light foot and highway miles, I tend to believe them. I don't know anything about those Ford engine/powertrain set-ups or what it's like to drive them, though. I'm sure it's all about gearing and the engine's power curve. The AMC 2.5 is a torquey little beast for it's size, and the Jeeps were meant to use it - the tradeoff for that capability is going to show up at the pump. 8)

:drool: That is one sweet looking truck.

I'm patting myself on the back if I get 25mpg out of a tank, which happens occasionally. I used to think my millage was a little better, until I finally got a GPS to check my speed, and realized my speedo/odo were about 5% off. Sad thing is, there are probably a lot of people not familiar with MJ's who will see the ad and believe it. Seeing a lightweight 2WD 4-banger compact truck, those numbers sound plausible. Especially with all the stories you hear about +30mpg Rangers. Heck, even after owning one for a few years and understanding it, I'm still kinda surprised the 2.5 isn't more fuel efficient than it is.

Not sure what you mean by normal carb? A factory unit is a normal carb - it was a little one-barrel unit. You can get reman'd ones at NAPA for 300 bucks. What I'm saying is that even after bolting on the carb, you'd still have to worry about fuel and spark. The TBI uses a higher pressure fuel pump, the ICU under the coil uses signals from the sensors & ECU to determine ignition advance/retard, etc. AFAIK, none of those systems are compatible with a carb. So, if you switched to a carb, you'd have abandon all the existing electronics, plumb in a low-pressure fuel pump, put in a distributor that had a vacuum advance, new coil, and some way to control spark. Can it be done? Sure. Anything's possible. But I'd think that for the same cost as putting together a carb system, you could probably replace every possible trouble spot left on your TBI set up. Just my .02.

'84-'85 Cherokees with the 2.5 were carb'd. Not sure if it's a direct bolt-on to the TBI intake, though. Also, carb versions used a different computer, coil, had a vacuum advance on the distributor, and a mechanical fuel pump on the block. And a much bigger rat's nest of vacuum hoses. If you found a good donor XJ at the junkyard, then maybe you could get all that stuff cheaply? :dunno: IMHO, for all the time/trouble/$$$ involved in a carb swap, I'd think you could just replace every single part on the current TBI setup.