1987Comanche

I adjusted my TPS with a multimeter (I'm assuming you have the Renix 4.0) and I think that, in a pinch, you could set it without one. If you loosen the upper and lower adjuster screws, then start the truck, you should be able to twist the TPS left or right and see what effect it has on idle. Once you get it in the ballpark, shut the truck off, tighten the screws down and see how close you are. And definitely watch the serpentine belt when you are twisting the thing!!!!

He got $5700 for this???? I mean it's cool but :???:

The Yugo book didn't mention the XJ, just the MJ. They might have been referring to side impact tests, which would make sense. The MJ has less structure to absorb a side impact and the MJ doors have no Nader bars.

I've never seen the official crash test results but I did see a reference to the Comanche in a book I recently read. "The Yugo: The rise and fall of the worst car in history" referenced the Comanche but it wasn't flattering. It noted that only 2 or 3 vehicles scored worse than the Yugo in crash tests...one of which was the Comanche. :doh:

I used a vacuum bleeder on my '87 2.5 after I replaced the external slave. It worked fine.

In addition to mileage are you sure it's the original engine? My '87 MJ had an engine out of an '86 (V belts instead of Serpentine). The reason I ask is that you have a condition that causes lean running. You can treat the symptoms (fix the valves, etc) but you may burn the valves up in short order if you don't find the cause for lean running.

Do all 4 Dr XJ door panels swap directly from 84-96? I found a set of 97+ panels but all the plastic fastener locations are different. I may be able to score a set of nice '96 panels for the '90 MJ but I'm not sure if they changed the mounting locations when they added the Nader bars,etc. to the later model XJs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Che ... sQ5fTrucks

So bushings that are shot would make the pass wiper slap the bottom of the windshield? They do park in random positions, ranging from horizontal to 20 degrees from horizontal.

If you have that much gas in the oil then something in the TBI system is FUBARed. Excessive gas could be diluting the oil and the thinned mixture could be leaking past everything. First thing is to change the oil, then start troubleshooting the TBI system.

Right on at 75MPH according to the speedo in the other vehicle traveling with me. Not sure on lower speeds. What's the recommended way to put the needle on after you've disassembled the odometer? Once you pull the needle there's no reference notch, etc on it.

You can set the speedo needle to match the vehicle speed. I've done this on a few vehicles (after cluster swaps) and it's fairly easy but requires patience. Pull the plastic face off the cluster but leave the gauges in the truck. If the speedo is 10mph low pull the needle off the face, move it up about 10 degrees, and put it back on the pin. Take the truck on the highway and bring a stopwatch. Get to 60mph indicated and time how long it takes to go from milepost to milepost. If you're reading 10mph low your indicated time will probably be somewhere around 53 sec. When I did my current MJ I stopped when I managed 59.97 sec, which I thought was pretty darn good.

I did my floors about a year ago and the only prep was to break off the loose rust and make sure everything was clean and dry. The only problem I had was a bit of peeling where the POR 15 pooled (the same channels where the water pools) but 95% of it was fine. What I've learned with POR-15 is the thinner the coat the better.

Start simple with a basic tune up. How old are the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, & fuel filter? Plugs & wires are cheap & cause a lot of problems.

Makes you think twice about buying a new Grand Cherokee: http://www.myfoxdetroit.com/dpp/news/ch ... 0100923_dk

I have a spare Renix flywheel in the basement (I think from a BA 10/5). I can weigh it if that would help.

When I picked up the '90 last year she had been neglected and the inside of the engine was nasty. I had the VC and oil pan off the 4.0 and scraped a significant amount of sludge and carbon off everything I could reach. I pulled the pushrods, blocked the pushrod holes and scraped about 2 Coke cans full of carbon off the cylinder head. The timing cover was completely plugged with sludge/carbon and the only free space was where the chain actually moved. The bottom of the block and rods were skunky too. After scraping what I could and seeing what was inside I figured the best method of non aggressive cleaning was to change the oil more frequently than I normally would. I've been changing oil every 2K miles (2 months) and I recently saw Pennzoil advertised as having extra detergents that remove sludge. Is there any merit to this? I don't want to do anything aggressive like Seafoam because I'm sure there's plenty of carbon waiting to break free and clog passages.

You are missing both rollover/tank vent valves. They keep excessive vapor pressure at bay when hot and will shut if the truck rolls. Both rollover valves on my '90 were bad so I pulled 2 from a 4.0L Renix Cherokee and they're the same P/N. Hit the jy, drop a Cherokee tank and pry out the valves and grommets...you'll be all set. Out of curiosity how dirty is the inside of your tank? With exposed holes that big I'd imagine it's filthy.

The '94 Hi-Line cluster and the older Hi-Line cluster should have the same font. Why not just swap the mechanical speedo and cable back in? The driver for the mechanical speedo should be a direct drop in for the VSS.

I never heard of using Dynabeads or BBs in the tires at all. Very interesting. If I had a tire changer I would have saved $180 last year so it definitely might be worthwhile. I have a month or so before I need to swap the tires so I have some time to think on it. I learn something new every day :)

Can you explain the balance portion a bit more? How do you tell where to put the weights and how much? I assume you don't have a balance machine available. Also where do you get the tool to unscrew the valve stem?

I looked online and Tractor Supply has a manual tire changer for $55. Is this even worth looking more deeply into? http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicle-ma ... er-1000142 Which HF changer do you have?

I have a friend with a '90 Cherokee Sport and his OE sport wheels are in vastly better shape than the AL wagon wheels on my MJ. He's leaving the states in a month or so and said I could have his wheels as long as he had something on there to sell the truck. My BFG tires have about 10K so I'd want to keep them. The problem is that it would cost me $80+ to have someone dismount/remount 8 tires (swap my tires to the new rims and vice versa). This upgrade is in the category of want to do, rather than need to do so the budget is pretty low. Any suggestions on a better way to do this?

I know everyone is always looking for the '92s and I found this one on e-bay. Too far for me to drive... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Jee ... 27b4c501f9

I'm going from memory here but I believe the life span of the OE pump is usually somewhere around 100K. It will go farther than that but starts loosing ground. The high vol pump has a thicker casting and better gears. A HV pump can increase oil pressure if the engine is in good shape to start with (my Beretta is a perfect example of this...40PSI to 60PSI). Worst case is the excess vol is bypassed back to the pan. Depending on how long you expect to run the engine an OE replacement pump may be sufficient.