1987Comanche

When I junked my '88 Isuzu pickup I kept the long handle for lowering the spare. It works pretty well in the MJ and nearly fits the back of the cab too.

Too bad y'all are clear across the state! Interesting photos of the add on wiper delay. I always figured the only way to do it was to break the steering column down and go the straight OE route.

I added this option to my '87 and it was well worth the $5 I spent at the jy for the module. Funny thing is that a PO had replaced the multifunction switch with a delay unit and never finished the job. It was literally a 5 minute install :). Where in SC are you? I'm in WNC and LKQ in Greenville is about an hour away.

I'm up for anything that might have an impact on the water entry. Do you have dimensions and/or photos to show where you put the bead?

So I finally tracked down one of my major water leaks and it's coming from the driver's door, specifically the leading edge to door bottom transition (90 degree bend in the door opening by the fender). The rubber water deflector on the A pillar seems to be intact and in good shape. I put a 2nd gen XJ door seal (thicker) in place of the OE seal and it slowed water entry by about 25%. I have a very small amount of water dripping from the vent window but this is less than 5% of the problem. The door is even and adjusted as far as I can tell. What can I do next?

Well at least I didn't get my hopes up...

It looks like I'll be going to Toledo for business next month and I wondered if you can/would want to visit the Jeep plant. Specifically I'd like to see Toledo #2, where both MJs were born. I visited the Vette assembly plant in Bowling Green a few years back and that was really cool but I figured they had more reason$$ to make it nice. The tour was about an hour but well worth it. Any thoughts on Toledo?

100% true that the wiring isn't there. I added the auxiliary cooling fan to my '90 with no A/C and I had to add everything. I stripped an A/C equipped XJ at the jy and assembled it into a sub-harness that I installed. At the B+ junction (behind the battery) on the pass side you'll find the power feed with fusible link. Tracing that back you'll ultimately find the relay, A/C diode, fan switch, and temp switch. Since your truck is A/C delete you'll find an unused 4 pin connector on the driver's side by the washer fluid reservoir. You can find a key on 12V+ feed from here for the relay. I helped someone else here troubleshoot their fan and they posted the diagram showing where everything went.

Both look decent though I thought they were priced a bit high. http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/2234603451.html

My '87 base Sportruck (2.5, AX-5, 2WD) had a black interior with a black vinyl bench.

Every time my TPS starts going bad my idle jumps way up. I went through 3 JY ones before I bit the bullet and scored a new one off E-bay.

Take a high resolution photo of the sticker with a digital camera and have someone make you a new one. I think OfficeMax or Staples can do it.

When I did the RMS the lower 1/2 of that bearing looked ok. I figured that I'd find a set of toasted bearings but they weren't all that bad (few very light scratches, plenty of material, no excessive wear). The truck didn't have a full cluster until I installed one so I think it's been like that for a long, long time. Would a leaky head gasket conceivably cause low(er) oil pressure? My truck could be nicknamed the Exxon Valdez :) but there's no oil in the coolant and vice versa. I have the common early 4.0 oil leak on the pass side of the head. It may simply be a case of my truck having been assembled on a Friday. I found some garbage under the rubber floor mat when I pulled it out.

For better or worse mine does :) Cold idle is 40-45 psi, running at operating temp on the highway she has 20-25psi at 2K RPM. Hot idle is just under 10PSI @ 700 RPM. I verified it with a mechanical gauge. Been like that since the day I bought her...I was originally worried about it but 13K miles later I just keep the oil clean and try not to rev her too high :dunno:

It is a direct bolt-in but there are some differences between the '86 2.5 and the '87-'90. '86 used V-belts and '87+ used a serpentine belt. Alternator, P/S, etc are different. The oil filters are different as well. My '87 had an engine from an '86 transplanted by a PO.

According to their inventory sheet it's still there (I think it's the same truck anyway). You can go on http://www.pullapart.com and search by yard...pretty cool feature: Make Model Year Row Location Date On Yard JEEP COMANCHE 1989 202 Columbia 12/22/2010 To find out why we can tell you about our car inventory, but NOT specific parts, click here.

I had to replace the tanks in both the '87 and '90 and the SWB P/N was the same for both, JP5B if I'm not mistaken. Both the 2.5 and 4.0 sending units fit ok in the tank.

I think the 4.0 pump can be adapted to the 2.5 sending unit. I put a fuel pump in my '87 2.5 and I had to do a few mods to fit the replacement Bosch pump on the sending unit. I put a gas tank in the '90 4.0 and, as far as I could remember, it looked the same to me. I suspect you may have to drill a hole or two to mount the 4.0 pump but I don't see any reason why the 2.5 sending unit couldn't handle it.

My NP231 (90, 4.0, AX15) has been getting a good workout with all the snow we've had recently. So far I've had 2 instances where I've unsuccessfully tried to go from 2HI to 4HI. The first time I pulled the lever to the detent and didn't have 4 HI. Cycled the lever again and it went in. This afternoon was the same story except I was able to pull the lever an extra 1/2 back after driving a few hundred feet and felt it pop into 4HI. I'm guessing bad bushings on the T-case linkage. Any write ups on this and/or P/N for the bushing kit? I'd imagine it's an exercise similar to changing wiper linkage bushings. My search results have all been related to 2 to 4WD conversions.

VW is building a HUGE assembly plant in Chattanooga so everyone expects it to grow in leaps and bounds. I would think that, when the plant opens, land prices will spike.

That pipe broke 3X on my '87 2.5, each time at the rear flange. 1st time was a quick weld repair, 2nd time was a jy pipe, 3rd time I cut the 2 pipes, fit to length, and welded them together on the truck. The welds would have been prettier if it was off the truck...getting the geometry right was a bear though. It was fine until I sold her. If you need a pipe I have the front 3/4 of one in the basement.

I put in Auto Zone MC #1 for my '90 4.0 about a year ago and it lasted just over 6 months, then started leaking. I swapped it for another one about 6 months ago. I hope #2 lasts longer but I won't know for another few weeks.

Very similar symptoms to mine. At least you know the t-case and linkage is ok. I'd vote to lock the fork in place and call it good.

Well I finally found my gray door panels :clapping: . They are the upmarket "accusound by Jensen" door panels with the hockey stick pulls and the metal speaker grates. The donor had power windows so I had to cut holes for the window cranks and that's when I ran into a problem. I discovered that the window cranks hit the top corner of the speaker grates :fs1: For the time being I broke out the grinding wheel and took as much off the OE plastic window cranks as I dared. This helped but really I need a different window crank. What other window cranks fit the XJ/MJ? Ideally I need one with about 1/4" extra clearance but if I know what I can use as a donor that will help greatly.

One of the IOUs on my list of stuff from Santa was a set of new drill bits. I killed quite a few while making all the adapter plates to put my Grand Am seats in the '90 MJ. I like the way the DeWalt bits cut into the material and I had the cobalt set (not TiAlN High speed steel). Most of my drilling is sheet metal/angle iron/stainless so M35 cobalt would probably be the minimum. Carbide doesn't seem like the best idea b/c of price and how brittle they could potentially be. So what does everyone use in their hand drills?