JeeperjohnfromPA

So this old MJ that I have leaks oil, and other fluids. It's a 1987 with the 4.0 automatic on the floor and is 4wheel drive. I can see that the Valve cover leaks, and looks like the oil pan leaks. From what I can tell looks like the transmission pan is leaking too. My question is, buy gaskets? or use permatek,(that stuff in the tube)? I know I can do the valve cover with the permatek stuff. As I recall from the straight six in my old 1972 Chevy Nova, there are seals in the front and rear of the oil pan, so I'll most likely need to buy the gaskets at NAPA. I geuss my real question is, Is there as Gasket for the transmission? or can I use the permatek there? The NAPA store I go to seems pretty good, but I like to go in there atleast SOUNDING like I have 1/2 a clue. Thanks in advance for your two cents,,,,,,,,,,,,

update as of 7/25/07 Ok the PO,(previous owner) had painted the whole truck, and didn't bother to cover most of the chrome trim. :mad: So, I tried something. I got a can of spray on paint stripper. I removed the front grill, headlight bezels, and chrome trim from the headliner. I sprayed them all with the paint stripper. Well it worked fine on the chrone trim pieces that were actualy metal. But It realy FUBARD the plastic parts. :ack: now I'm gonna have to get a new grill and headlight bezels from the JY. I thought the worst that would happen was it wouldn't strip the paint completely, and then I would just give it a new coat of black paint. However the stripper chemical made the plastic get a bubbled/rough surface, which I don't like. Ahh well live and learn :roll: On another note I also picked up a drivers side door and installed it, transfered over the lock cylinder and other items. I'm going to start doing some of the mechanical stuff shortly. This old MJ needs a new Valve Gasket,oil pan gasket, and I think the pan on the transmission is also leeking. somewhere in there I'm going to pull the bed off, so I can properly patch up the frame, paint it and rust proof it.

That Chevelle is simply Awesome.

Just teasing you about your taste of Beer. ;) I know that pipes in a house will not freeze and burst at 32 degrees, it needs to get much colder before that happens, simply because the water is under presure. I thought that the same principal applied to Beer, or even soda. But Now that I think of it, it's only happend to me with beer and soda. Never with water. So perhaps there something to the, freezing when the gas is released. On the otherhand perhaps the fact that it is carbonated means there is an even greater presure in the can or bottle? Thus requiring a colder temperature to freeze? I geuss I'll go have another Bier and ponder some more of lifes mysteries,,,,,, It's raining here so I can't get much done on any of my jeeps anyhow!

Yes, it all has to do with presure. This has happend to me, well, so many times I can't remember. :headpop: Since the bottle is presurized, it needs a cold temperature to freeze, when the top is opened the presure is lowered and then it freezes. The same thing can happen by tapping the bottle as this causes a momentary drop in presure by causing the carbonated 'bubbles' to pop. and the liquid is so cold that the carbonation doesn't build back up to the same presure because it is so cold. Next time this happens, don't dump your beer drown the drain, (even if it is a cornona), rather set the frozen beer bottle in the sink, so any overflow goes down the drain, and wait about 5-10 minutes, then it should be drinkable,might be slightly 'flat', but hell if it's your last beer,,, ,,, ,,,

I Think the first one you mentioned does look better then the second one. However I would NEVER buy a vehicle off of Ebay without looking at it first. Jeep Comanches have issues with "RUST". It starts out in wierd spots in the floor and frame. This mostly depends on if it see's salted roads in the winter, how much four wheeling through the mud it's done, and weather the former owner tried to keep the undercarage clean. My MJ had the floor pans rotted clear through in spots, (see my 1987 MJ in the projects forum). And I've got some rust issues with the rear frame. Mine wasn't so bad that it couldn't be repaired, but repaired is in progress. Further I traded an old YJ for it so I didn't spend alot of money. When looking at a MJ for rust out, check from underneath, the floorpans, and check the frame back where the shock mounts are. I wouldn't worry too much about any rust in the doors or fenders as those are easy to just replace. As always becarefull on Ebay, check a sellers feedback,(actualy read comments), and contact the seller before bidding. Even ask just a simple question, just to see what type of personality your dealing with. Good luck with your search.

Looks like a Righteous Roller to me! Sounds like your two girls are putting my two boys to shame! ;) I've got my one son(5yrs) helping me often, My older son (8yrs) doesn't seem as interested. But mostly I did a bunch of welding at first, so they couldn't help much with that. My younger son has been helping me get the interior of the cab back together. Then again I've only had it for about a month or so now.

The real shame of it is, this idiot doesn't even realize that a STOCK CJ would drive better off road and on road. :nuts: Hold it, let me rephrase that. It would drive better with a driver who actually has a brain. :D

I see people selling gas tanks on Ebay, check out this guy?? http://stores.ebay.com/THE-RADIATOR-CONNECTION

I like it! I think the two tone colors Rock. Nice job!

Well When I got my MJ, there wasn't much floor left in that area. I welded in a nice thick peice of sheet metal, As for the raised C section, since it wasn't there, I figure I can get away with out it. :brows: The piece I welded in seems pretty strong.

exactly why I wheel a longbed MJ. I was the only one at the cherokee crawl, and most people don't even know what the hell it is when I pull up. that and I can toss the swampers and camping gear in the bed, roll on road tires and swap them. 7 feet of cargo space is pretty nice. That was one of the reasons I snatched up my Pioneer, (7ft bed). Go look at trucks at the dealers today. It's actualy hard to find an 8' bed, thats a reasonable price :mad: and if you actualy WANT a bench seat, :cry:

I just went to a HVAC company and picked through thier scrap pile for some decent sheet metal. Cut patches with some heavy duty tin snips, and welded them in place. Not the prettiest job, but it's strong and was cheepie, (just the cost of the welding rods). :brows:

You can do it!

I forgot to mention. I also picked the MJ because I knew I would have no problem finding parts at the local junkyards! But most of all, because it was made by Jeep !

I stumbled apon this picture the otherday, and decided to scan it in. Image Not Found My wife must have taken it, just another day in the life of my YJ. The poor thing hauled stuff ALL the time. Anyhow thats why I wanted an MJ, so my poor old YJ could get a break! (as soon as this MJ is road worth the YJ gets a leafed added in the rear).

My own two cents on this, GOOD friends are hard to find. REAL friends are even harder to find. If this Guy REALY is a GOOD friend, Tell him flat out, and tell him everything you know. He might not believe you at first, he might hate you for it. BUT if he is a REAL GOOD friend, you owe it to him. And if He is a REAL GOOD friend, sooner or later he'll come to his senses and realize that you were on his side. and you'll be good friends again.

Looks like it's coming along good! :cheers:

Thanks for the Link Eagle. Those look like what is on there. I am wondering though, It seems that the springs would compress some after the weight of the truck was on them, wouldn't it be best to put those clips on at that point? Also, I was thinking of giving them a little 'tack' with the stick welder to keep them from sliding arround?

Recently I picked up a set of springs off a MJ in the junkyard. These springs have a leaf added to them. I figure maybe the stock springs were a bit weak and someone upgraded them by adding a leaf. Anyhow, my question is about those little clips that go arround the leafs to keep them all straight together. One of the springs only has one of the clips, the other spring has two. However all of these clips are loose and sliding arround, and I would simply like to replace them with new clips. Can anyone tell me where I might find these, (don't need a whole lift kit just the clips), and also should I install them before I put the springs in the truck or after? Thanks for any imput anyone might have. ;)

Yes indeed, Thanks Pete!

Thankfully I've been lucky so far, only minor scratches. Just a note that we all need to becareful. I've even taken to wearing some split leather gloves more often. and safety glasses

To be honest seems sorta stupid,,, :nuts: 50yards, Him, his glock, all those clips of ammo. Me (or anyone who knows how to shoot), an old M1,, 5 round clip Need I say more? :brows:

His Jeep is a truck, and there are pictures of it posted here on comancheclub.com So why doesn't he have a comancheclub.com sticker?? ;) I recently saw a jeep dealer in NJ sell a Jseries pickup on Ebay for $5000. They were going out of business, they had bought it new and taken excellent care of it, it had under 50k miles, To be honest, it was worth closer to $10,000 in my opinion. I would of bought it but I'm in to much debt already :cry:

Today was a good day. I pretty much finished up with the interior of the cab. The main patches in the floor have been welded in. I used some bondo fiberglass on a couple of the smaller spots. Cut some nice thick rubber for flooring under the seat, (has little bumps so as to let the floor breath). I fixed my headliner. the fabic was torn and sagging. I took the whole thing out, tore off the fabric. Then I used some faux leather fabric I purchased at Walmart. Spray mounted the hell outa the backside of the fabiric and the backing of the healiner. Adheared the fabric to it, and used a bunch of binder clips to hold the edges good while the glue set up, it's not quite as good as new, but the cool fabric sorta makes up for it. Got my bench seat in, and with some slight modification to the mini console that goes arround the shifter it will slide forward enough for my wife to be able to drive it if she needs to, (she's barely 5' tall). One of the seatbelts that was with the benchseat was busted, so I had to squeeze in one from the original bucket seat, it works, but I don't like it and will replace it at some pooint. One of the spots on the seat bracket, where the seat bolted to the floor was rusted away, but with my new found welding skills it wasn't that hard to fix. :brows: I dropped in the parkingbrake cable that runs from the pedal out the back of the cab. I didn't attach it to anything yet, as I removed the bracket under the bed, and plan on removing the bed soon, so as to properly repair the frame. I can't find my digital camera, or I'd have pictures to post. I did take some pictures with a regular camera over the past weeks So I'll post those sometime this week.