JeeperjohnfromPA

I've always used Champion plugs in all of my vehicles. Never had a problem. I find That when my motor starts lacking preformance, usualy a new distributor cap and a Rotor Make a Major difference, (at least in my TBI 2.5L YJ). Thats my two cents

Actualy my friend and his taurus were in NJ at the time, Not sure what the PA laws are.

I avoid buying anything from China, whenever possible. Pay for Fuses? I always grab a handfull of fuses when I'm at the Junkyard. I've so many spare fuses now, it's a joke. Big ones, little ones, mini ones, all different amperages too. I don't steal them either, I show them when I "check out", the girl there always laughs at me and doesn't charge me, (I always spend a decent buck on everything else I'm buying anyhow). Same thing with the spare Lug Nuts that I grab, (napa wanted $5.00 each). :brows:

Just a note about insurance companies. If the accident was the other drivers fault, they CAN NOT say your vehicle is totaled, if the repair cost is legit. For example, the blue book value of the vehicle is $1000. The cost to repair it is $2000. Thats thier problem, since the person they insured damaged your vehicle. However if the accident was your fault, you are at your insurance companies mercy. I know this for a fact, a good friend of mine was in an accident. it wasn't his fault, his crappy old taurus had a bluebook value of about $800, (if I recall correctly), it cost almost $2000 to repair it. The other drivers insurance wanted to total it, and pay him $800. He said "Bull, where am I going to get a car I can drive for $800?" and threatend to take them to court over it. make a long stiry short, they paid to fix it. Just everyone remember that if it's not your fault, don't let them bully you. I know insurance laws are different in different states, but double check if it happens to you!

I've some BAD rust through in the area just before the spring perch on the passenger side frame rails. I made some measurements, and stopped at a metal fabircation shop today, he's making me two pieces to weld in, and is only charging me $20. that should 'shore up' the rotted area, I'll POR the heck out of the inside of the frame rail and cross my finger. It was so rusted out there because a PO had Four wheeled it, and never realy tried to clean out all the MUD that got up in there, (the mouse nest wasn't helping the situation either). I'm gonna take a Good look at m y wifes 2001 XJ and make sure to spray something up in in there to protect it too, BEFORE her's starts to have problems.

Sounds like a problem I had on my 91 YJ, (2.5 with a 5speed), it was a bad wire coming out of the coil, the connector there was fubard.

I'll double check the wires in the brake pedal switch/assembly. But Like I mentioned, when I disconect the wires from the front proportioning valve it the problem is gone. As for the presure bleeder, Aggg throw more money at this Truck! I'll check with a few friends before investing in one. Gonnna need money for some new tires on my YJ and this MJ to get through inspection soon.

Having worked for a printer, I can tell you this happend in the bindery, not on the press. I would write the publisher and complain. and get a free copy with all the articles!

My Comanche is very close to being 'put on the road', but I've one slight problem with the brake light. It stays on. When I first aquired this beast several months ago, both brake lines to the rear were rotted away and leaking fluid. I realize that this would cause the sensor in the proportioning valve to cause the light to illuminate. I have since replaced the brake lines to the rear, yet this light will not go out. In the past My jeep CJ8 and also on my YJ the brake light in the dashboard, (ie parking brake light), has come on on various occasions when there were problems other then the braking system. I realy want my MJ to work the same way. If I disconnect the wire for the sensor in the proportioning valve the light goes out. This makes me think that this valve in the proportioning system is stuck, has anyone had this problem? Is there an easy fix? I realize most of you prolly did away with the rear proportioning valve and switch to an XJ proportioning valve in the front. But there must be some other knucklehead out there, who, like me, is trying to keep using the rear proportioning valve. could it be that I have the lines that go to the rear proportioning valve mixed up? Any advice that anyone could give, (other then do away with the rear proportioning valve), is greatly appreciated. Thanks john

As much as I love Led Zep. I would not go to see a concert, even if they did get back together. They must be in thier 60s by now, and I wouldn't pay a high price, (ya know the tickets will cost $$$), to watch some old dudes ruining the "magic" that they once had.

I have some very strong feelings about that day, and what happend. On that fateful day I was still living in Manhattan, but at that exact moment I was in New Jersey, (I worked there). When the second plane hit, I knew our country was being attacked, and I knew there would be a terrible price to pay. I called my wife, (we lived very close to lincoln center), I just wanted to warn her to stay away from public places. Amazingly I got right through and was able to leave a message, it was two days later before I was able to actualy get a call through and talk to her. It was close to a week later before I could even get back into Manhattan to see her and my son. My mother-in-law was 5 floors below where the first plane hit, somehow she made it out just moments before the whole place came crashing down. I went down there to "ground zero" about two weeks after the 'event' and it was extreamly disturbing, something I will never forget. I remember seeing all of the "missing" signs and "have you seen?" signs. I remember seeing a steel "I" beam from one of the towers that was litteraly stuck like a spear into one of the adjacent buildings. I mean a hugh I beam, like you could only fit one on a semi tractor. Everything, for blocks away, was covered with a chalk dust from the drywall that had been pulverized, . There was a strange smell in the air, sort of like burning garbage mixed in with burning rubber. My home town in New Jersey had alot of people who commuted to NYC, and quite a few of them went to WTC, so this realy hit home for me. That is one day I will never forget, nor will I ever forgive. God help the first Muslim who trys to "rationalize" to me "why" these scum did this.

I have the same problem, I tried spraying the linakage in spots with some white Litium grease too. That Helped but it still wouldn't come back as far as it should have. I solved the problem by drilling a samll whole in the linkage and attaching a small spring to pull it back. This little "add on" is realy a Bubblegum paper clip type of a fix, but it's working fine.

My MJ has been parked since it was delivered to the house. Today, however, it actualy moved under it's own power! The rear brakes don't seem as tight as I'd like, so I'll have to double check that the rear proportioning valve is working correctly, and if so I'll adjust the rear brakes. If not I'll bleed them again. Slapped on a new fender, put the header panel back in, and re-installed the gas tank. Was so nice to hear the old 4.0 start up. Hopefully I'll have this old MJ back on the road by the end of september. Still have alot of little things to do before then! I'll get that grill guard on before winter!

Finally a few pictures for you all. Here is a look at the bench seat I installed. It is one what was ment for the colum shift, but I made a little modification to the mini console so everything fits and the seat will slide forward and back. I picked the bench seat up at the JY for $23. It was so mint I just couldn't pass it by. here are pictures of the modifications I made to the miniconsole. here is a picture of the Dashboard with the full instrument cluster, and the wood grain bezel. Here is the front end, at the moment It's getting a face lift soon (new grill, headlight bezels and a stock brush guard). sort of hard to tell, but that is a (new to this MJ) drivers side door.

OK on a 1987 4.0, with an automatic, what are these two connectors, under the hood on the passengers side, that have little yellow covers? Are these for some sort of diagnostic unit? or something else. I've labeled them A and B and am holding the caps in my palm. Thanks in advance for the info.

Awesome a CJ10 made into a wheeler!

Yes it is a Gladiator, The only other thing I can tell you is I WANT IT! :brows:

Sweet Truck Mario! I just love the headliner too! I think more then one of us are going to pick up on the idea!

Made some more progress the other day. Went to the Junkyard, and got a rear proportioning valve that seems good, (wasn't rusted to S#*t like mine). Installed in in the MJ and bled the rear brakes. reconected the parking brake bracket and cables, (still need to adjust it yet) Picked up a Left fender and installed that too. Picked up a new grill, and headlight bezels, to replace the ones I screwed up. Picked up a couple little "nick-nack-parts" while I was at the JY. Hopefully I'll get the gas tank back in this week, and fire this baby back up! I've decided to skip taking the bed off, Gotta get this thing road worthy before winter, so I just won't have the time. Also Untill I get it on the road, who knows what else I might find wrong!

If I could find an MJ, with NO RUST, with a good clean 4.0 Good transmision a decent interior longbed 4x4 Any year EXCEPT an 86, (don't think they had a 4.0 in 86s anyway) I'd be happy to pay $4-5k for it, (well if I had 4-5k) As it is I'm in debt to my EYE BALLS! :eek: So I'll just have to keep working on this old 87 MJ that I got when I traded a YJ for it.

Listen to HORNBROD I do believe he is 100% on the money I had an old Volvo, everytime you drove it in the rain , the next day the battery would be dead, I knew it was some sort of short, I wish I had tried this as it prolly would have helped me track it down!

I put a Throttle body spacer in my YJ sometime back, It helped a little. My 91 YJ has a 5spd and 2.5L 4cyclinder, with TBI. Dropping in the throttle body spacer took me less then a hour, the spacer only cost me about $26.00 It did help. It didn't give me TONS of extra Horse power or Torque, but I noticed that I wasn't downshifting as much on hills, and it gave me about 1/2 MPG boost on fuel efficency, (an investment that is still paying off!) If you have a stick shift, these just "drop" right in between the throttlebody, and the manifold. If you have an Automatic, you'll need to adjust the shift linkage on the Throttlebody. It's a simple upgrade, not sure how much it might help on the 4.0 litre, but it helped my 2.5 John

Check the bleeder valve for the Clutch, and try giving the system a good bleed while your at it. This happend to me once on my YJ. If thats doesn't do it, I think you gonna need new slave cylinder in that baby. John

I'm looking forward to pictures of this 'Gold Mine'

They work two different ways, you simply toggle the lens, (or light cover) up or down. up should turns them on continuously, and down makes them turn on when the door(s) are opened. The Part Number for the Bulb is C11-7W Hope that helps