BIGHEEP

I have been plugging away a little every night checking things off my mental list. Tonight i wire wheel and sanded the floor. Then painted it with a coat of Chassis Coat.

:???:

More parts arrived today. I now have all my ZJ steering parts as well as shock adapters and bar pin eliminators. I also ordered new vacuum lines to replace the dried and cracked old ones. Before it got dark tonight I was able to install the RE drop brackets and track bar.mount as well as mock up the shock adapters. It has also become obvious that the camera on my Iphone can no longer take a clear picture. :doh: With any luck I should have the Dragon back on its wheels this weekend.

I am still waiting on steering and suspension parts to show up so today I decided to pull out the old bench seat. It doesn't look that bad except for the stitching coming apart on the drivers side. But it is hiding a secret underneath. No wonder the seat bottom felt like I was riding on a board....... I was! Decided to pull the rubber mat while I was at it. I knew the previous owner had patched the floors and it looks like he did a nice job. I should only need to hit it the floors with a wire wheel and a coat of POR 15. I do need to figure out where water is still leaking in from. My guess is the aftermarket sunroof. Once I fix up the floors I am going to be throwing it the old bench seat out of NHMJXJ's 1990 MJ that he was kind enough to give me when he went to bucket seats. It is cloth, much better shape then mine and the headrests will add a bit more safety to the truck.

Good, another NH MJ to look out for. Sounds like a solid rig.

Well, it's all out. All in all everything came out without a problem. I found the right outer tie rod was smoked and the front inner doesn't have much life left. Looks like I will be upgrading to V8 ZJ steering while I am at it. I am at a stand still at the moment because the drivers upper control arm was really rusty and thin. I need to pick one up to replace it. The only thing left that needs to come off is the lower control arm alignment shims then I will be ready to install the RE drop brackets and the 5.5" lift.

So this truck has pretty much sat since last fall. This spring I patched the brake lines and replaced the rear shocks only to have the brake lines blow out a week later. Then today this happened.

Title pretty much sums it up.Whatcha got?

Truck looks great. Nice build.

I had one stuck on my old MJ that would not come off no matter what I did. Finally I had to resort to a bit of a sketchy method of using a Highlift jack and 2x4 between the two rims. I jacked until it finally pooped and shot across the driveway.

Wow, lookin good. :thumbsup:

The part number for the CJ replacement floor plugs is Crown J4000334. It should pop right in there.

Looking good.

Not sure if this is tech or not but the stitching on the bench seat of my MJ has come apart. I would like to put a cover over it but I would first like to know what brand other people are using. Post pics if you have any and tell what brand/model you are using and how it fits.

He said that that is about the best he could do. We had a good back and fourth and talked about values and stuff. And the $600 I think is a fair number. I could see a yard at auction paying that for mine. Low mile drive train, all the metal from the a pillar back is good... Tires are great, wheels are good, interior is leather... I bet it would fetch more rolling across the block than just $600. Like I said, just waiting on State Farm. If this is the better offer of the two, I don't think I can be too upset. Rob I agree $600 does seem fair.

Keep in mind if they say the scrap value is $600 there is no way a junkyard will pay full scrap value for a vehicle because there would be no meat left on the bones so to speak for profit. You may be able to get it even cheaper than that. In NH if a vehicle is totaled you can rebuild it but you need to have it inspected by a state inspector before you can put it back on the road, The also require receipts for all the parts that you need to replace.

The new engine. The tear down begins. Just a little wiring to be done. After first fitment of the engine it became clear the engine mounts need to come forward, The distributor of the Vortec 350 hits the firewall. Also the trans mount needs to be relocated. The Advanced adapters tail housing is longer than the factory 4L06e/700R4. I already knew this going into the swap so no surprise there.

I just so happened to have a buddy parting his one ton YJ so I bought his Vortec 5.7L and 4L60e with AA tail housing and output. I have to do a little wiring but it should be an easy swap. I am planning on running a D300 behind it.

I watched this Scrambler up for sale on a local forum for a while. It had an Atlas t-case, Monster transmission 700r4 and a 400hp SBC 355ci. The owner had tens of thousand invested in it and was asking 15K. It floated on the for sale section for about a year. The owner dropped the price a few times all the way down to 9k with still no bites. That was still out of my Jeeping budget. Then he finally decided to pull the drivetrain and sell it as a roller. Well, all the planets aligned and I was able to scrape up the cash to buy it. I scored the deal of the century and now own the Jeep I have wanted since I was 14 years old. Here are some specs: 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Laredo Rust free Texas Jeep w/ 40K miles, set up for SBC, Advanced adapters radiator, trans cooler, power steering cooler. Ram 2500 master cylinder, PSC steering box, Rubicon express steering box brace and frame brace. Poison Spyder front stinger bumper, Warn rear bumper, LED tail lights 4.5" lift, full Autometer gauges in custom Double D dash, Ididit tilt steering column, B&M shifter, Kenwood deck and speakers And the cherry on top........... Currie 9" front and rear 31 spline w/ Yukon 4.10 gears. Brand new Falken Wildpeak A/Ts on 15x10 Soft 8 wheels.

Thanks Jon, your Wagon is way too nice for that Proof of how nice your wagon is (these are the pics I saved when I looked at it a few years back) You REALLY need a build thread on it here :yes: The wagon has hit the back burner. I have since brought home a new project.

I agree.

The RE9900 drop brackets fit fine. The RE9905 bracket braces technically do not fit, but can be made to fit. An extra hole needs to be drilled for the forward cross member bolt position and some minor trimming around the Comanche's extra LCA bracing may be required. I have held it up to my Comanche's frame and noted those minor differences they would prevent it from fitting. I have not yet done those modifications to install them or completely test fit them. X2 The brackets themselves fit fine.

That thing is so cool. I wish I had a plow for my Willys wagon.

Actually the fender is adjusted in all the way and the hood forward all the way.