RochesterMJ

-Does the 4WD work? Hell yes. Like a Dickensian Orphan. this guy's a genius

Stopped at this salvage yard today. Vehicle is gone.

1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0 i6 SWB Build Date: Driver Door stuck shut Current Location: Parts Galore on 8 mile in Detroit Status: used parts/junkyard Notes: Heavy rust, Gray interior with cloth bench, rear slider is aftermarket and glued in (OE gasket is there and looks ok as of 09/07/13).

Modified the over-the-rail bed liner so I could use the tonneau cover with it. Also made access to the front tie-downs. Used a D-link and Turnbuckle so I wouldn't need to hog out a huge access hole Started out with a dremel but it made a ridiculous mess, ended up marking the opening, drilling holes in 2 opposite corners and using a hole saw to cut it out. Fast, no mess and nice clean opening. Experimented on this side, access hole for the tie down got way too big, had to make a cover plate. Image Not Found

I think you're making the right call. I've got a white LWB without moldings and its just missing something. Needs a molding or graphic to break up all the white in the bed. I just haven't been able to figure out what

Whichever way you go... Don't cut the existing molding. You'll need to reuse it or sell it, I don't believe these are being sold anymore.

I had the CRL 4 pane installed in November. I bought it online from DK Hardware Supply. Pretty happy with it, I'd recommend it. The factory window sits in the opening, the CRL glue-in sits on the opening. I think the CRL looks better, I never liked the factory look of the thick gasket and the thick frame - looks like you're cheated into a small window, but there are small drawbacks: 1) the factory glass sits down in the opening, the CRL sits on the opening. Its overflush but not much. the gaps between the window and body are vary between touch condition and 1/8" gap (not a leak issue and not eye catching to a casual observer). after 9months I don't notice it at all. 2) On the inside, I'm seeing about a 3/4" gap to the trim panels. At the right angle I can see the B-plr light leaking through, this hasn't been an issue. 3) The CRL is taller than the factory window, when the window is open, you can see the edge of the headliner. Looks fine, only notice if you know it isn't sposed to look like that. 4) A 3 pane window will slide better, the wider sliding pane won't bind/buck in the tracks as much as the shorter 4pane ones. Not a big deal, just muscle through and last - the guy that installed mine used way too much urethane. it squeezed out on the inside and got into the tracks. had to come back a couple days later to cut the junk out. I was pretty ticked off but still think the CRL looks better from the outside. Just try to get it installed right. EDIT - finally figured out how to load pics (finally read the tutorial on how to load pics)

I bought and modified one of these this weekend. Works great, looks great, stays in place yet simple removal. If you don't like high high it sits (about 1.5" above the seat) you can just pull out the insert (light grey) and mount that with screws/velcro. Thanks for sharing

I'll have to give that a try Blue. Thanks for the knowledge guys.

Changing the rear diff fluid, bought gear oil (75W-90) at the store, guy at the counter says I need the limited slip additive. I buy it and am now wondering: A) Do I have a limited slip diff? How do I know? B) If not would it hurt if i added the stuff? Here's my basics: 91 MJ, LWB, Base model, Auto 4x4 D35. Street driving, no towing, hope to off-road at some point. Any help would be appreciated

You could use Google Translate to figure it out

Same guy walks into an ER the next day with his unit sticking thru a steering wheel. Nurse says "That looks uncomfortable" "Yeah, its driving me nuts"

I was there 88-92. I know a couple other alumni that go up there to interview for Chrysler, I'll PM later this week if and when they're going up.

Uhhh..shouldn't you be working on the Snow Statues?!?

1 day 17 hrs left and its at $8650. Reserve has not been met

I had the CRL 4 pane installed in November. The factory window sits in the opening, the CRL glue-in sits on the opening. I think the CRL looks better, I never liked the factory look of the thick gasket and the thick frame - looks like you're cheated into a small window, but there are drawbacks: 1) the frame sits on or straddles the opening and isn't an exact fit - it'll touch the metal in a couple spots and be gapped up to an 1/8" around the rest of the frame on the outside (not a leak issue and not eye catching to a casual observer). 2) On the inside, I'm seeing about a 3/4" gap to the trim panels. At the right angle I can see the B-plr light leaking through, plan on filling this gap with a black foam door seal when the weather gets warm again. 3) The headliner was designed for the shorter factory window. When the window is open, you can see the edge of the headliner hanging down. and last - the guy that installed mine used way too much urethane. it squeezed out on the inside and got into the tracks. had to come back a couple days later to cut the junk out. I was pretty ticked off but still think the CRL looks better from the outside. Just try to get it installed right Can see pics in my photobucket acct http://s1255.beta.photobucket.com/user/SteveBeguin/library/CR%20Laurence%20Rear%20Slider

Just did this myself on the fronts. Drill out the broken studs, if you're not also replacing the fender liners, loose bolts should work fine. If you're replacing the fender liners, replace the broken studs with weld studs or JB Welded bolts. my experience is below: Initially tried to buy new brackets from Quadratec but three of the six were on never-ending back order with Crown. Waited for 6 months like a dummy until after the weather turned cold. Drilled out the old studs and tried using loose bolts but found it too frustrating because I was also installing new fender liners. The lip of the fender liner limits access to the bolt heads (inside the flare) and the liners themselves have to be manhandled to get the holes to kinda line up (some combination of poor quality and cold weather - especially on the passenger side). Became obvious that fixed studs were the answer, I don't have a welder so I used JB Weld to secure the bolts, this made the install infinitely easier. Found that it was easier to install the liners first, then I snapped the brackets into the flare and brought that to the fender. Get the studs through the fender and liner holes throw on some washers/nuts and you're done. Preheating the liners helps if its cold out. I had to rework the bottom rear of the liner (relocated 2 holes and remolded with a heat gun) to get the lip to fit in the flare. Again, if you're not replacing the liners this shouldn't be a problem for you. Hope this helps. Also, if you have trouble getting the flares off its because some of the studs have two fasteners on them: the nuts that you broke off and then some of the studs also have a pushnut that hold the flare directly to the fender. I had to grind those push nuts off. I don't remember where I got the liners but it was on E-Bay and they were $20-25 ea? Made in Taiwan. They're pretty thin and I wasn't happy with the fit but they did take a lot of abuse and didn't crack or tear during installation. TeamCherokee has original replacement liners for more $

Changed out the wheels/tires. As Bought: (235 75R15's, spray painted steel wheels with a flat Jeep center cap) Now with 31x10.5 15's on powder coated Grizzly's (pic also shows addition of a 3" lift - mostly seen in the front, rear didn't come up much). Need to space out the rear wheels to keep em off the frame. Hitting the lower control arms in front, had to adjust the steering stops - gotta love PB Blaster

1991 Jeep Comanche Base As purchased: Current (with 3" lift): 4.0L i6 / Auto Aw4 / 4x4 / D30 / D35C / Long Bed Build Date: Nov 1990 Current Location: Rochester Michigan (North side of MetroDetroit) Status: On road. Mileage 124,000 Notes: White with grey interior, rubber floor mat, cloth bench seat, column shift, solid back glass. Had wide-view mirrors. I'm the current owner