Comanchemodder

I see water beading up on the hood. Good enough condition for the owner to was?!??! Sweet!

The video was good. At the end, YouTube shows other videos, including "sent of a woman" clip where Al Pachino goes off on The school committee. Awesome stuff.

Since you don't have a locker, jack up one tire, spin it two revolutions and count how many times the drive shaft rotates and then check your results against possible Comanche gear combos. http://classicbroncos.com/gearratio.shtml

I didn't see the the best choice listed: Keep the stock grill!

Looks like a humidity chamber!! Too bad about your car. That thing does not look like a cheap waste of money. Not to mention fixing the car.

Sweeet MJ... Wow!! I see the Ford control arm brackets are still attached. Does it retain the Ford arms? I didn't see any detail pics of the front suspension.

Update: There are two cores listed on Rockauto. The Four Seasons does not fit into the cooling box due to being too wide. If changing, make sure you get the OEM version. Four seasons #54614 stacked on the OEM unit:

Doing some more searching, I am tempted to repair and keep it: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40662-vapor-canister/?hl=canister

Can anyone recommend if the EGR Solenoid and evaporator canister can be removed? The vacuum lines are rotted on mine and am trying to debate if I should just remove the whole thing or repair it. That canister is not the smallest, and I could add a vacuum reservoir in its place. However, I don't think it is as simple as jerking it out. What needs to be done to remove it and have the engine run properly? From Moses Ludel's site, it would appear there is a select window when the EGR actually functions and it would seem if it malfunctions, causes engine problems. From Moses' site: The EGR canister purge valve is a solenoid controlled by the ECU. The valve applies and shuts off vacuum to the EGR valve and the Evaporative Canister. The solenoid prevents the EGR and canister from operating during the engine warm-up mode, at an idle, during wide open throttle and during quick acceleration and deceleration. If you disconnect this solenoid, the EGR and evaporative canister will operate at all times, causing rough running and hazardous vapor conditions. Truck: '87 2.5L, AX4 2WD. EDIT: There are no emission requirements in TX for autos > 25yrs. old, so I'm in the clear on that.

If you want to blend in, you should get that car lifted, ad 35in tires and swap in a Cummins.

Truck: 1987 2.5L AX4, 2WD Goal: Somehow fix it up into something nice. I can't figure out what yet, hence the "Direction Unknown". Background: I've had my '87 2.5L 2WD for about two years now. I bought it up in Dallas and was a typical giddy MJ buyer...barely even drove it and agreed to buy it. I then drove the next 4 hours back to Houston in the dark and had to refill the gas four times and the power steering fluid twice. In the summer 2013, I sold my daily driver car to go full time MJ. Ever since this has been my daily driver. Therefore any mods need to take a weekend max so as I can drive to work on Monday. I'm not sure where this build will go but I look to improve all aspects: interior, drive train, and body. The Truck: The following photos are of the original truck. Since I've bought it, I've made the following improvements: 1) Removed the carpet, ground out the rust and primed. 2) Changed the engine 3) Ground refresh 4) Changed out signal sockets and fixtures 5) Various other maintenance items. 6) Flipped the grill to the correct orientation!!!! Truck when I bought it (with leaky pool of PS fluid): Side with Bondo'ed door panel: Engine (before the swap):

Comanche fans do not do that to other Comanche owners. There is a special place in hell for those folks. I read on another forum that that circle of hell involves the offender to drive/push a Chinese knock-off while everyone else is driving a Jeep.

I can't figure out if those are one in the same.... LOL!

I have and aluminum one which I bought from someone on this site. I never used it since when I swapped the engine to an '94 2.5L, it came with an aluminum one already installed! I will PM you pics if you are interested in taking it off my hands.

Hi everyone, Can someone list a '87 A/C evaporator core part number which is known to fit? Looking at various websites, the pictures are different. Also, can someone list the part number for the little A/C temp switch which cycles the compressor when it gets too frosty? Are these known to go bad? I want to change everything out when I have the dash removed. I hate to not change it out and discover it was bad afterward. My truck is a daily driver and I want to minimize the number of days I drive without a dash....

And a higher pressure fuel pump.

Distributor is different too. And maybe the coil; the RENIX Coil may work, but the MPI coil looks physically different.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: We used to say the same thing living in Minnesota. My 5th year in Houston and I can safely say: you aint seen nuthin' son. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Welcome. Make sure your A/C is is on optimal condition!!

I know there are two different carriers in the D44. I don't recall the cut-off, but I believe 3.73 and below use different. Whatever you are swapping into, make sure the carrier is right .

The light, just like the gauge, goes off oil *pressure*, not oil level. The light comes on when your oil pressure drops to 0. IE, the oil pump is sucking air instead of oil. yeah I know. It would usually flicker when going around a corner. I assumed the g-force moved oil away from the pick-up. That was my reminder light to fill up.

Running lights work? Pull the socket from the lens and with the running lights off, see if you have a dim blinker. I mean really dim like look at it from about six inches. If yes, then you may have inadvertently flipped the running light circuit With the signal. That's what happened to me when I changed my sockets. The bulb resistance is not the same and will result in really dim blinker when on the wrong circuit.

Do the running lights work? As you know there are two circuits with the signals and the running lights on two different filaments.

On my old 2.5L, it burned/leaked a quart every tank-full. Did you know that the oil pressure idiot light comes on when you are off the dipstick? I found that out a few times...

I replaced the CTS with the Autozone SU332. Note, after getting some erroneous readings from my cheapo Multimeter, I used the calibrated Fluke 87V here at work. The MAT sensor reads 3.4k ohm at 70 deg F. which agrees dead-on with Hornbrods spec table . So the MAT "seems" to be good. Driving to work today, it ran great. Ill report back in a couple of days. Note to self: make sure test equipment is reliable before spending money on parts!