Bounty Hunter

I used a small metal pic (similar to dental pic) to pry it off. It's partially open on one side, and the clip removes completely.

My old YJ made a rag years ago, readers ride section.

Without looking at mine, the shackle center section might bind against the leaf spring under full compression of that spring.

Messed up here too, was wondering if it was just me. Most all '95 have the larger 297x ujoints, I was always under the impression it was introduced sometime in '94 and can be found in some '94 models. ABS doesn't matter.

Good reference: www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

Correct, no pull in 2wd with the front disco'd.

You can swap out transfer case input shafts relatively easy, they run about $70 from Novak IIRC or cheaper used.

Any amount of moisture in the transfer case fluid will corrode parts while in storage, causing the grinding. I'd take it apart and clean it up.

That's what we're all talking about here, it wouldn't be a consideration without some means of disconnecting at least one axleshaft while onroad. No offense taken, we're just on opposite sides when it comes to this subject.

In 2wd there is NO pull in any direction from the front end when the disco is disengaged. When in 3wd on the road, the pull isn't bad, very driveable and your description of being pulled into oncoming traffic is an exaggeration IMO. I've been there and done that when it comes to the locked front end, still driving it on a regular basis after 2-3 years or more welded. Only difference being I had a manual vacuum switch from an SJ to operate the disconnect instead of a cable.

They came behind most every jeep tranny '88 and newer, with a few exceptions. There are variations of the 231 input gear designed to fit various transmissions so keep an eye on that.

I need to put PMOX on my front diff cover for "Po Man's Ox" locker. Right now I've just got Lincoln Electric Racing decals on each diff skid

I drive mine on the road all the time, even commuting to downtown St. Louis in rain and shine, no problems. I've ridden/driven some jeeps with auto lockers and the banging and sudden lane changes of the locker locking/unlocking is downright nerve racking. Spools/lincoln lockers are smooth as glass predictable onroad. I've never had excessive tire wear from it, what slight increase there is in rear tire coning is negated through a good rotation schedule. That's what the posilok is for, turning is a lot easier in 3wd. Although I often leave mine engaged and add a few points to the tightest trail turns.

On the ground. Camber moves slightly between on the ground and in the air. The toe will change if the suspension is unloaded, screwy XJ/MJ/TJ thing.

Forgot to add that I too have never seen a spool or minispool for a 30 or 35. I for one would buy minispools for both had they been available.

I've been running Lincoln Lockers in the front and rear of my YJ for several years now, no problems with the stock axles at all. It's actually easier on axleshafts than lockrights and other auto lockers because there is no shear force of a sudden lockup, which snaps shafts. Also no onroad driving quirks as there is no locking/unlocking depending on throttle position through curves. No sudden lane changes often associated with auto lockers. Simply put, very predictable and driveable onroad in both ends if you have a disconnect mechanism on the front axle (CAD or locking hubs). Unbeatable traction offroad.

I used large ratchet straps from the top of the inner C to the rear of the truck to hold the front axle in place while the UCA's were out. This allowed me to adjust proper pinion angle and caster before building the UCA's to suit.

What height spring and what length control arms you using? If there's a bow in the spring, it could be straightened by changing either the upper or lower control arms so the lower spring cup sits level. To be accurate, you would set your wheelbase with the weight on the spring, first by adjusting your lower control arms. You then adjust your upper control arms for proper pinion angle, and second, proper caster. Your springs should then be straight and your jeep will handle well.

Tim, call Bruce at Hytech, 618-281-8746. They're at 211 W. Kunz St. in Columbia, about 2 blocks from Capt. Kirk. He quoted me a little over $100, about 2 hours labor, to remove the seat and rebuild the foam on the drivers side. He said it would be a LOT less if I removed and brought in the seat, saves a lot in labor. They're a good shop, do a lot of hot rods and boats. I used to take my boat covers to them for repair.

Consider the downside of receiver mounts is they don't work well with side pulls. And a winch/mount combo is a pig to be carrying back and forth. Although a 2" receiver mounted in the bed would be a good storage spot.

Shouldn't need to do anything special in order for the tach to work, didn't need to on my '88. I would remove the guage cluster and clean all the tab contacts on the backside with an eraser or small piece of fine emery cloth.

I'm with you, vacuum discos aren't as bad as they're made out to be.

You're pretty close, I'm in Waterloo. Be sure to check out www.sija.org/forums . I would have guessed a bad injector, and sent you to Speedway in Madison IL for a used one.

^^ what he said works good for me too.

Tim, that's highway robbery. I've got a place in Columbia IL that can take care of you a lot cheaper ('specially if you carry the seat in). I checked out the MJ's at Speedway last month, didn't see any buckets unless they got something new in, highly possible. I'd sell you my gray buckets if they weren't already included in the sale of the MJ.