1989 Eliminator

Scratch that .11 ohm reading. Its 5 ohms. I had it on the wrong setting

I checked the map sensor readings: ignition on, engine off: 4.7 V Hot engine idiling: 1.66-1.85 V Good ground Tps readings: Resistance from tps to firewall: .11 ohms 17% voltage difference

So today i started it and the rpms were weak and after a little bit of idling it staled

I replaced all the vac lines. Including the map to tb one. I went through cruiser54's tips and did all i could for those too.

Sometimes when i start my truck it starts fine. Other times its very rough and idles around 500 or less. Like it wants to stale. One time it actually did stale just from idling. So i replaced the o2 sensor and tps because i thought those were tthe culprits. And i have 89,000 miles so a new o2 wouldnt hurt. My cps was brand new from mopar two years ago. What else could this be? My exhaust smells very rich.

Here is a great post for the conversion. Step by Step. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/

So everbody loves pictures so here are some for Crusier 54's Valve Cover mod.

Yeah trust me I have. Ive done most of them besides the ccv fix which I'm doing wednesday to see what that does. Becasue I am getting a little bit of oil in my air filter.

I would clean all your grounds. On the block, firewall, clean you negative post on the battery. Upgrade the grounds if your up to it! Look at cruiser54's write up. But take out all electrical connectors, clean them, and apply di-electric grease to prevent moisture getting in.

Like other than that it runs awesome. I am going to clean my ccv and try to make my valve cover not leak oil anymore..... :crossfingers: I know there are a lot of threads on low idle and such but each one just isnt the exact same issue. Or the solution in the other threads I have already fixed.

I just did this replacement actully! I take off the powersteering pump and bracket which lets you get to some of the lower bolts better. You can get all but the last two (closteset to the firewall) from the top. The last bottom two you can get from the bottom. With these two, a swivel and 9/16 socket with extension can fit over top of the manifold. This is the best way. The other way is to use a wrench and reaching inbetween the manifold and block. THAT IS A PAIN. Make sure you clean the block surface from old gasket material. I left my exhaust manifold still hooked up so I didnt have to replace the donut gasket. Doing this though... It can be kinda tricky getting the gasket seated between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold getting in your way. Depending on if you ever took your injectors out, you can keep the clips on and carefully pull them out still connected to the fuel rail. Otherwise take the clips off ( AND DO NOT LOSE THEM!! ) Use di-electric grease on the new o-rings when installing the injectors back in. I left my injectors in the fuel rail and placed the fuel rail on top of my valve cover with the wire harnesses still connected too. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!! DO NOT forget to screw in the egr hose before tightening all the manifold bolts. otherwise it is very hard/impossible to get the tube in the holes. I install the tube just before I'm ready to put the bolts in and screw it in a little to get the threads started.

Any thoughts on this? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1193383/1

So ive done quite a bit of research before posting this and ive found similar idle issues. Mine mostly idles low like ~500 and bounces around. It goes lower than 500 sometimes then catches itself and idles back up a little. Sometimes its just a constant low idle. I also feel and hear a miss when idling. Small vibrations which is when the idle drops. Also if i quickly "brap" the throttle there is a dead spot, then it revs up a bit, but when the rpms fall, the engine wants to stall but catches itself. Once i get going cruising, WOT, the engine runs fine. I replaced the TPS because I thought that was it. i tested it before and was okay but with my research everyone was saying TPS or IAC. I have no vacuum leaks. New intake gasket, bolts are tight, no exhaust leaks, replaced all the hard vacuum lines with rubber ones. New spark plugs, copper champions. I do not wanna spend money on sensors i don't need. Any ideas?

Yup measure the hole in the valve cover and find a slotted grommet with a hole in the middle and a 90 deg. hose adapter that has the same diameter of the I.D of the grommet. Then hose the rest to the airbox

How is the ground on the side of the engine block? Is it dirty and covered with oil? Did you upgrade your grounds at all?

Yup if you move the vaccum canister under the coolant bottle, you can use some of the old lines (if they are good) to hook everything back up normal. This will eliminate a TON of vaccum line which in return gives less of a change of a leak. I can send pictures if wanted.

Just an update: I moved the vaccum canister from the front passenger side bumper to under my coolant bottle. I plan on securing it down somehow but right now it is just sitting snug under there. I also managed to use all the old lines to connect to the bottle. Just the right amount of length. I like this re-location because it eliminated A LOT of vaccum line which is potential to leak. :thumbsup: I checked for any cracks or leaks before I used the old lines of course. Now I can tell there is a difference in my idle. Runs a bit smoother. Now I am going to replace the hard plastic vaccum lines with rubber. :wrench:

So I am just about DONE with these vaccum leaks. So I have decided that I would replace all the hard vaccum line with new rubber vaccum line. I have found some Gates vaccum line from O'Reillys that seems would work. I am asking if anyone else has done this and if so what brand did they use? Here is the lines I'm looking at: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Vacuum+Hose/N0890/C0222.oap Hopefully this will fix my rough idle issue. I also plan on moving that vaccum canister more towrads the back firewall.

I also tried the carb cleaner spray to see if the rpms would increase and they didnt

Yea both dowels are completely seated and manifold is snug

I did not actually take off the exhaust manifold so I wouldnt have to deal with the rusty bolts and donut gasket at the end of the manifold. So I checked for cracks where I could. There was not any old gasket left on the manifold when I installed it. Would an exhaust leak cause idling issues though? A vaccum leak....

http://comancheclub.com/index.php?/topic/39437-1996-Xj-Dual-Diaphragm-Brake-Booster-Conversion

You can't even post the link to your build thread? Or the post number? C'mon man. Most newbies that need this info don't know how to find your nice thread. I would but I'm on the new tapatalk app on my phone and don't know how!

So i just replaced my manifold gasket and also used some hi-temp copper spray on the gasket to help a little. I took everything off and sanded the two mating surfaces so they are flat. Now two out of the three studs were loose when i uninstalled the manifolds so i put red loctite on them, screwed them back in and let them cure. I then inserted the gasket in, put loctite on the bolts and torqued in a sequential order. But i still have a leak. There is a distinct ticking sound when load is put on the engine. So i guess my question is... Can a exhaust leak cause such a vaccum leak or would it be just the intake manifold. Because i am still have a rough idle. But its just ridiculas that i just replaced the gasket. Any input?

I have also written up a nice thread on how to do this conversion with pics and my experience with it. You can go on my profile and find it