mfpdm

Just saw that on the news. They said that $150,000 was lost in Vodka and Gin.

Thanks to both of you. With what you wrote, you knocked the dust loose and got the brain firing again. Since I was just looking for a hose, as I thought the wiring was in the engine and dash harnesses, read this and walked out to the peg board with all my spare wiring and found the piece of the puzzle I was missing. It didn't dawn on me that it had it's own harness. :dunce: So looking at the red arrow which points out the firewall plug, the only one it will fit is the one above the speedo and below the wiper holes. And I'm with you Akula69. I'm just going to use the other hole and make a piece to connect to the brake pedal and use the old cruise control switch. Would still like a pic when if you get the chance. :thumbsup: Also, which wires did you use off of the newer brake switch? From what I've researched, two go to the brake switch, two go to the torque converter lockup/release, and two go to the cruise control. :dunno: :cheers:

If you do end up going the film route, make sure you research which of the newer digital cameras can use the older lens. I know someone mention it already but if you find a nice used setup with a good amount of lenses, might as well think of the future and the money you won't have to spend if you go digital later. And Pete, those are some awesome pic's. I gave my wife the 12 mega pixel sony but it does have the mechanical lens. I may have to borrow it from her to see what it can do. :cheers:

So I'm finally getting around to hooking up the 96 booster in my build. I know quite a few have done it but has anyone dealt with hooking the cruise control up? The donor for the cruise control was an 89 and I'm putting it into an 88. I plan on using the 96 brake pedal assembly with the 96 brake switch. It can provide the electrical inputs needed but the older cruise control switch also has a vacuum switch on it that bleeds off the vacuum when the brake is applied. On the 96 pedal assembly, the bracket that holds the brake switch has an extra hole beside the brake switch that the vacuum switch could fit in. I figure I could bolt a small angled plate to the brake pedal to actuate the switch. I know I can modify the 96 booster rod to work with the old pedal and brake switch but I'd like to hear what others have done. Lastly, those that have cruise control, where does the vacuum hose for the switch on the brake enter the firewall at? :cheers:

So was this in a moderate to heavy flex situation or going over a speed bump. Details please. :cheers:

Your doing good, my memory hasn't been the same since the early 80's. :chillin: I thought maybe it was something recent as the XJ shackles seem to be one of the first ideas mentioned when talking about lowering the rear, along with the 2wd pack. :cheers:

Not to get off topic here but this caught my eye. This is the first time I've seen you say this. I've seen you post the 1/2 inch part and that they limit travel but not that they are too short and will flip. Is this a new discovery? Was he flexing hard? Should I be worried now about the ones I have on my build or should it be ok for a DD that will see little to no off road use? Inquiring minds want to know. :popcorn: :cheers:

He is basically making a pig tail so he can use the factory wiring harness connector instead of hacking it off to splice in his speakers. I've done the same thing so I can change speakers without having to splice the harness over and over. Here's the wiring pin out front left door green + black w/ tracer - left rear green w/ white tracer + black w/ yellow tracer - front right door green + black - right rear white + brown - :cheers:

I agree with the not comparing it to the Comanche. However, I really doubt that there is any Manche parts in it so I'd just call it a modified ZJ. Kind of looks like a Toyota from the rear. Still kind of cool. Would like to see what that jeep grill is attached to in the garage. :cheers:

Thanks, Nope, was done with the Dupli-color spray truck bed liner on the bumper and Kylon Fusion on the endcaps (I think) Ahh, that explains the texture. I thought you had it powder coated with a krinkle finish. Still look great. :cheers:

I think it's called an air dam or valence. Anyhow, in your case, I think I would leave it and just notch it out for the hooks. Now in case your wondering why I said that, it's because your truck is very stock looking and I think you should try to keep it as close to stock as you can. Especially if you ever think of selling it. You could also get another one if you don't want to notch the original. Off topic: Did you have the bumper powder coated? Looks real nice. :thumbsup: :cheers:

I don't need any temptations in my life right now. :no: I was about to call tonight just to get the info to post with this thread but was affraid he would tell me that he'd let it go for some really low price or that the 8 in 8500 was really suppose to be a dollar sign or that he hit one too many 0's. If someone on here was really interested and had actually spoke with him, I'd be willing to go and check it out for them for a little gas money. I'm close but not that close. An hour to an hour and a half depending on traffic. :cheers:

You know, I didn't see it like that. You may be right. I was thinking he meant a new diesel. Anyhow, the price, if it is rust free with a good paint job and new motor, great interior, and so on, it would be close to that if you had to do it yourself. I also think of these as #3 in the rare catagory. 1. ThunderChief 2. The 100 Street MJs 3. The Diesels. :cheers:

Saw this on craigslist today. I'm guessing that this is a typo. That's an 86 Comanche X. Well at least according to the badges. :dunno: Here's the link to it. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1441029745.html Would be nice to have and if indeed the engine is new. Price is fair but a little too rich for my blood. I'm in the under a $1000 club. :yes:

A trip to the JY and a cross tip screw driver can fix that. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Believe this discussion came up before and was pointed to the Novak site which has the info about the 2.5 with AW4. Sure, I know don't believe everything you read on the web, but I don't think they would put out bogus info. Here's the link http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/aw4.htm Also, out of 3 years of hitting the JY's for parts, I can't recall ever seeing a 2.5 with an auto. I guess they may be harder to find then the D44. I have seen a couple of listings for them but for the most part it has been in MJ's. :cheers:

:agree: I don't like the bolsters, although I think I dislike the Tweed fabric even more. I had those seats from a 4dr and got rid of them because of the fabric. Those are MJ seats as only the MJ's had the carpet on the back at the top to prevent chaffing. And yes, that price is too high. If he wants that much, he should seperate the floor mounts and seats and list them on ebay. Might get close then. :cheers:

They are? Who? I have searched far and wide and not seen anything. You can buy aftermarket bumpers that will fit on an MJ, but they are not even close to being duplicates of the original. That Fey you posted a link to is a standard, universal replacement bumper. You can buy them at Pep Boys. For anyone looking to restore an MJ, that is NOT a suitable replacement for an OEM bumper. Well let me correct myself so as not to get beat up anymore. :fool: What I should have said is that there is aftermarket bumpers being made that will fit the MJ, but, there is NO AFTERMARKET SUPPORT for the tail lights and tail gate. And I'll add the disclaimer of, as far as I know. :cheers:

There are several listed on ebay often. This one is not completely OEM, but looks just as good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FEY-BUMP ... ccessories :cheers:

As nice as that bumper is, remember they are still being made by aftermarket companies. What's not being made are tail lights and tail gates. Those two could have been taken without braking your hand. :D :cheers:

So, I guess this statement is true, J/K Sorry you didn't score. :cheers:

Interesting. When I took that pic of them side by side, if I remember correctly, I actually put the extended bolt end from the one installed into the holes of the WJ one. I think I measured too but can't remember. :dunno: :cheers:

Agreed. :thumbsup: I'd would love to get into the design and fabrication of my own parts but one step at time. Believe me, I'm not a real big fan of the RRO drop brackets but for now, they will do. It seems through this discussion, we are both in agreement that our passion is Jeeps. And thanks for the compliment on the build. I wish it was on the road so I could at least see if what I've done was worth it. Apologizes to the OP for dragging his thread off topic. :cheers:

Yes, I know that the additional bracket once removed leaves you with whats on the XJ. I mearly point out the red as that will be the design of what is left. What I was getting at is why you would want to remove the extra welded reinforcement when you wouldn't have too, to add a bolt on part. Well I'll agree with you on this. Without the factory support in there, you need the brace. Well I guess I don't match your wisdom. Must of had someone else install this, So as to keep within the spirit of the forum, I'll leave it as that. We'll agree to disagree. I think if you have seen my Build, and my part trucks, I've dissected them pretty well. :D :cheers:

Ok, so let me get this right. From this statement, You want him to cut off the factory welded steel supporting the lower control arm mount like what is outlined in red, and reduce the strength of the mount to bolt on the braces that are designed to be used with the XJ. Far as what you are saying here, If the design was the same, there wouldn't be an issue with using XJ specific braces. Not sure what your trying to explain here, This may be that were talking apples and oranges and the thought was just lost in translation. :cheers: